Temporary Exterior Glue/Sealant

[LONG_KEELER]

Has anyone used sealant/glue instead of screwing down solar panels ? Without damaging the GRP if it all doesn't work out ?

CT1 doesn't seem to last too long . Sikaflex perhaps ?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Rappey]

Rigid panels so aluminium frame, or flexible and have no idea what plastic they are ?

 

[LONG_KEELER]

Rigid panels so aluminium frame, or flexible and have no idea what plastic they are ?

I'm thinking flexible solar panels screwed to say four timber blocks for a 30w panel. Ta

 

[PetiteFleur]

I screwed my flexible panels directly to the deck. Used short screws so did not fully penetrate the grp.

 

[alahol2]

30W Semi-flex panel on hatch garage. I used CT1 to form a 'button' through the 4 corner holes on the panel. I seem to remember putting dabs under the panel in the middle of each side. It's been there for 5 seasons so far and is still firmly fixed. Never seen CT1 degrade.

 

[Poignard]

I have never had any failure of CT1 either.

 

[Dunx]

I’ve had great success with scotch VHB tape to secure flexible panels. More expensive than adhesive sealers but I am confident it will be easier to remove without damaging the GRP

 

[LONG_KEELER]

Thanks for the replies.

Sounds like my technique with CT1 is at fault. Perhaps I did not apply to a bigger surface area and probably didn't weigh it down enough. On other applications, I have found the Clear far less effective.

The Scotch VHB looks interesting and is available from Screwfix.

 

[Crowblack]

Thanks for the replies.

Sounds like my technique with CT1 is at fault. Perhaps I did not apply to a bigger surface area and probably didn't weigh it down enough. On other applications, I have found the Clear far less effective.

The Scotch VHB looks interesting and is available from Screwfix.

Just going through same thing - personally don't like drilling holes in the deck even small ones. The panel manufacturer (semiflex Sunware) recommends Sikaflex 252 so will go with that.

 

[tillergirl]

Polysuphide! I fitted three quite large semi flexible panels on the roof of the Mobo. Two at the front for 24v, one large single at the back for the 12v. It has stayed perfect. Just needed a little weight

solar panels ext by Roger Gaspar, on Flickr

That was done 3 years ago. The Polysulphide beads could provide the required 2mm air gap underneath that was recommended and holds the panels without any problem. Polysuphide has the advantage of being removable if ever needed. It seems to me people have forgot about Polysuphide. chandleries just stock CT1 and Sikaflex 291 because of all the nonsense about it.

 

[Poignard]

One thing that is not "nonsense" about CT1 is that it is available from the builders' merchant 200 yards from my house at a reasonable price; also from eBay.

Another thing that is not "nonsense" is that it works well.

 

[alahol2]

The 'new' CT1 is a different formulation from the 'old' CT1. The 'old' CT1 is available as OB1 from Screwfix et al a bit more cheaply. That's what I now use.

 

[tillergirl]

The point is Long Keeler wants to be able to remove whatever is used. Once cured CT1 and Sikaflex 291 can only be removed by mechanical means i.e grinding, cutting..... So needing a sealant in a 'service' situation albeit it is in one year's time, five years time or ten years time or whatever, it is possible using polysulphide to remove the item and the polysulphide without damaging the substrate.

 

[Poignard]

Thanks for the replies.

Sounds like my technique with CT1 is at fault. Perhaps I did not apply to a bigger surface area and probably didn't weigh it down enough. On other applications, I have found the Clear far less effective.

The Scotch VHB looks interesting and is available from Screwfix.

I should have mentioned that when I was rebedding my windows into rebates in a mahogany coachroof I sought advice from CT1 Technical Support and I was told not to use clear CT1, so I didn't. I used brown instead and it was fine. I can't remember why clear was not suitable but you need to know, a call to CT1 Technical Support should elicit an answer.

 

[Hermit]

I am thinking of use 3M Dual Lock (strong velcro) as I want to be able to remove it if needs be. This is for a biggish (170w) flexible panel.

 

[Poignard]

The point is Long Keeler wants to be able to remove whatever is used. Once cured CT1 and Sikaflex 291 can only be removed by mechanical means i.e grinding, cutting..... So needing a sealant in a 'service' situation albeit it is in one year's time, five years time or ten years time or whatever, it is possible using polysulphide to remove the item and the polysulphide without damaging the substrate.

I don't understand what undue difficulty there is in removing CT1. I had to remove some from a redundant deck fitting and I simply cut through it with a sharp knife and scraped off the residue with a sharp scraper.

CT1 now offer a sealant remover called Multisolve but I haven't tried it.

 

[alahol2]

I don't understand what undue difficulty there is in removing CT1. I had to remove some from a redundant deck fitting and I simply cut through it with a sharp knife and scraped off the residue with a sharp scraper.

Ditto. CT1 (OB1) doesn't go rock hard, it stays rubbery. It doesn't amalgamate with GRP/metal it can be easily removed by scraping. The more textured the surface, eg wood, the more difficult it is to scrape off.

 

[jwilson]

CT1 and OB1 are great stuff, but whilst you can probably get either off smooth shiny surfaces with very careful sharp scraping I would not want to attach anything with it to a non-slip patterned deck or coachroof, unless you want to spend many hours with a tiny scalpel and magnifying glass. Sooner or later you have to remove every fitting......