Teak transom - how about plain and simple teak oil

[Flynnbarr]

What do you mean by "properly"? and can you explain how you can cover a transom on a Grand Banks or rubbing strakes on hull sides? If you are going to use covers then does not matter what coating you use.

Woodskin gives up to 5 years virtually maintenance free protection without using covers. Sikkens 2 part Nova on the mast of the boat in post #9 lasted 10 years with just one refresh. I expect the now Cetol coating to last just as long.

Ok change properly for traditional.
I know your are a big advocate of woodskin….there are failures if you look on this forum,I didn’t like it….none of my woodie friends would even consider using it and it doesn’t look as good as proper varnish to me but its up to the individual….same as anchors and everything else argued about on here!
Easy to have a cover custom made for the transom,my friends Bates StarCraft has one for his very shiny varnished transom and I have had covers made for all my varnish work on my boat…..handrails,side doors,grab rails on coachroof,all the teak boxes.
It has maybe halved my labour but I like proper varnish so put in the work.

 

[Zagato]

If you have proper iroko I would just leave it natural. Looks fine on a sailing boat unless you want a show queen motor boat. If the latter, sell it and buy a yacht ?

 

[Tranona]

Ok change properly for traditional.
I know your are a big advocate of woodskin….there are failures if you look on this forum,I didn’t like it….none of my woodie friends would even consider using it and it doesn’t look as good as proper varnish to me but its up to the individual….same as anchors and everything else argued about on here!
Easy to have a cover custom made for the transom,my friends Bates StarCraft has one for his very shiny varnished transom and I have had covers made for all my varnish work on my boat…..handrails,side doors,grab rails on coachroof,all the teak boxes.
It has maybe halved my labour but I like proper varnish so put in the work.

I guess it is the word "properly" that I questioned and "traditional" is not right either as it is inly a section of the boating world that uses and has used impervious gloss finishes. Those interested in long life and protection would not have used varnish that was the preserve of rich people who had crews to keep it all up to scratch. I agree about covers. That Eventide always had a cover on the cockpit because it was not self draining, and a cover at boom level down to the guardrails for the winter which obviously helps to extend the life of the coatings.

Really not interested in what your "woodie" friends say - I am a "woodie" too - I owned that Eventide from 1983 and am probably the only person in our area that still has wooden bargeboards in the house. However it must be "properly" protected and conventional varnish simply does not do that reliably for any period of time and making canvas covers seems just a way of compensating for the lack of ability of the expensive coating to do the job.

If you have a lot of wood trim like my current boat you can become a martyr to it if you use conventional finishes. OK if you have just the odd bit of trim and handrails, but it has taken me probably 4 weeks to strip and recoat all the teak and will use around 2.5l of Woodskin. Just applying a refresher coat will take a week at least. Don't mind that every 5 years. The trade off of course is you don't get the "furniture" gloss finish, but there is plenty of furniture inside the boat where that might be appropriate, although again my preference is for a satin finish using "non marine" products.

 

[vyv_cox]

Those interested in long life and protection would not have used varnish that was the preserve of rich people who had crews to keep it all up to scratch.

My son was engineer on a superyacht crewed by a skipper, himself and a Japanese guy whose only job was varnishing. He worked hard putting in a normal full length day but did almost nothing else.

 

[vas]

If you have proper iroko I would just leave it natural. Looks fine on a sailing boat unless you want a show queen motor boat. If the latter, sell it and buy a yacht ?

yep proper 1in cappings and just under an in thick hardtop sides.
and that's what I've done for the last year - not bother at all. Got to strip D1/2 combo from the hardtop sides though.
Basically I'm slightly worried that iroko will dry and start splitting if I don't occasionally "nourish" it with something.
Probably spent 2h a year cleaning the outside in July before the first trip of the season, not a bling type at all.

 

[Forty_Two]

It's really down to the "look" you like & the time you have.

Me, i love the high gloss look, nothing else will do. Epifanes Clear Varnish every time. Applying varnish in the sun is one of the nicest boaty jobs i do every year. Total pleasure just to see & feel the surface the next day (sad i know?)

I'm in the Med so have to do it every year, although when i was in the Solent i still did it every year because of rain penetration.

A Grand Banks withouth a gloss transom, not for me ???

 

[Tranona]

Just to complete my submission and then I will shut up.

This is the cockpit coaming. 1" solid teak dating form the late 1970's. Before I stripped it the top edge was flaking varnish as was the bottom moulding where it meets the GRP deck. In between was thick layers of old fashioned oil based varnish, most stuck but flaking in places. The winch plinth was just grey decaying varnish. took around 4 hours each side to strip with a hot air gun and remove the grey staining with scraper and sander. Then 4 coats of Woodskin.

Judge for yourself whether you think it does justice to the wood.

 

[Bandit]

Don't use teak oil, it attracts dirt and grows mould.

Bare teak treat with Boracol, 2 good coats to start with then a coat every 6 months, not oily, soaks in, kills all mould and algae, teak will lighten in first month then stay a silvery colour .

 

[Rappey]

? and can you explain how you can cover a transom on a Grand Banks or rubbing strakes on hull sides

A guy in our club has managed it. Even the nav light surrounds have covers.. must take hrs to remove all the covers and put them back on.

 

[Tranona]

A guy in our club has managed it. Even the nav light surrounds have covers.. must take hrs to remove all the covers and put them back on.

That is the point - I have seen boats in the States that have covers on everything, but best if you follow post#24 and employ somebody to take them all off ready for when you want to go for a sail. Maybe Albanian people traffickers can help out!

 

[superheat6k]

For now I am going to use Semco, as I know this worked really well on the teak on my Corvette. I will see how I get on with a matt transom.

Now it is cleaned off it looks superb compared to the grossly failed varnish it came with. The old coat was 0.5mm thick in places, but had not been properly diluted for the initial coat, which explains the extensive failure.