Teak transom - how about plain and simple teak oil

[superheat6k]

I have had the teak transom on Billy Ruffian stripped of the failed varnish. Not sure what was used but it was very thick, very failed and resistant to Dillunett AKA Owatrol.

The pal who is doing the stripping for me has suggested I simply Oil the surface periodically. This would certainly be easy assuming it would need a repeat treatment every few months, but this would be simpler than the awful strip that has now had to be done.

The other options I am considering are Le Tonk, Epifanes, Semco Clear. The latter leaves the raw cut beauty and colour of the wood, but leaves it as a raw finish.

I will eventually be stripping the heavy and failing varnish layer from all the external wood trim - cap rails, side trims, etc. The most effective method is simply to sand the surface until clean. Fortunately the deck is not varnished and that will get quite soon a Wessex Two pack treatment followed by Semco clear - so is Semco everywhere the way to go ?

 

[The Q]

Not tried the others, But the Stern of Blue Moon is varnished with Le Tonk, so far I'm happy with it after 6 months in the water...

 

[PlankWalker]

teak oil is the excrement of the devil, and has no place on a boat.
As he said Le Tonk, loads of coats, flat down, more coats.
I'd leave the decks natural, with the occasional hose, detergent, and a very soft broom brushed across the grain.
if the seams are standing proud between the deck strakes, pare them down to the deck with a sharp chisel.

 

[burgundyben]

I'd use Owatrol Deks Olje D2.

 

[Tranona]

Just doing all my (extensive!) teak with International Woodskin. 4 coats, no rubbing down between coats and based on when I have used it in the past can forget about it for 4-5 years. On a vertical surface like your transom it should last even longer. 75ml tin for £25 should do it. Alternatively for a lot more effort (and 3 times the price) Sikkens HLS/Cetol No7 will probably last twice as long. I have just done the new timber barge boards of my house with it and expecting 15-20 years, not that I shall be a round to see it, but again based on previous experience and extensive real world testing.

Only downside to these products is that they are tinted and you can't see your face in the shine.

This is a little taster of what Woodskin looks like - applied last week. Will take photos tomorrow of the cockpit coamings which I have just finished to show what larger expanses of teak look like.

 

[superheat6k]

I'd use Owatrol Deks Olje D2.

I used to be a big fan of D1 / D2, but I didn't think it worked on teak.

 

[Rappey]

The pal who is doing the stripping for me has suggested I simply Oil the surface periodically.

Noooooo. Teak oil contains solvents as without it would just sit as an oily mess on the surface. The solvents strip the natural oil from the wood destroying it faster than if you didn't do anything at all.
Woodskin- "does not crack, flake or peel..." what a load of tosh as it does all 3 around 4-5 years of age on mahogany and 85% of it has come off on the teak. It survives better on vertical surfaces but not that great on horizontal.
The only thing it's sort of worked on are my garage doors as they never get the sun but it has black mould spores under the coatings.

 

[Tranona]

I used to be a big fan of D1 / D2, but I didn't think it worked on teak.

The problem with that (and most other "varnishes) is the top coat is impervious and inflexible, so apart from the problem of adhesion once they crack water gets in and you experience failure as you have discovered.

All the coating manufacturers offer porous "woodstains" of the type I suggested, some aimed at the "yacht" market others at the construction industry. International have Woodskin - been on the market for over 20 years and Epifanes have "Wood Finish". These products are derived from those used in the construction industry for finishing structural and decorative wood is far more demanding environments than boats. I have wood (sheds barge boards ,window frames, doors etc) that are as old as 30 years still with the original coatings. All porous woodstains, some 2 part, others single. I have used them on my boats for over 20 years and they way outperform any of the "yacht" finishes I used previously. Over 10 years ago PBO and Classic Boat published a series of tests of bright finishes conducted by Richard Hares which confirmed these sorts of findings.

The downside of these coatings has been that they are not gloss and are often heavily tinted. However that is no longer the case and the finish of Woodskin (as you can see from the photo) and Cetol is acceptable, particularly on teak.

 

[Tranona]

Noooooo. Teak oil contains solvents as without it would just sit as an oily mess on the surface. The solvents strip the natural oil from the wood destroying it faster than if you didn't do anything at all.
Woodskin- "does not crack, flake or peel..." what a load of tosh as it does all 3 around 4-5 years of age on mahogany and 85% of it has come off on the teak. It survives better on vertical surfaces but not that great on horizontal.
The only thing it's sort of worked on are my garage doors as they never get the sun but it has black mould spores under the coatings.

Agree about teak oil.

However, name me a "yacht" varnish that will last 5 years as your Woodskin did without annual rubbing down and recoating to maintain the film stability. See post#5 where I suggest it is the best compromise for a vertical transom - you are right about horizontal surfaces. I found 3 years with Woodskin needs a rub down and recoat before it starts to break up I believe that HLS/Cetol would be better, but don't have long term experience. The first time I used it was in 2019 on a mast as in this photo. Sold the boat so don't know what has happened to it. The rest of the boat is mostly Woodskin, some of it more than 10 years old.

 

[vas]

would any of your suggestions work under the Med sun?
used D1/D2 following suggestions made here, only made it for just over a year in iroko cappings. Gave up!
Tried it again 3yrs ago in vertical hardtop strips of again iroko. The south facing one started breaking after 1yr, the north facing one managed 2+ A small area under the radar (well protected from the sun) has survived 3yrs and looks OK.
About to remove the hardtop strips (v.inconvenient place to work at!) strip them and use Semco and repeat every year (or if I have time twice a year) with just a clean in between.

 

[Flynnbarr]

How to ruin a quality boat…..use teak oil or Woodskin.
Do it properly and varnish it then have some covers made

 

[Portofino]

Teak wonder products work well for me .Not a transom but solid planked bathing platform + ladder + passerelle.

Cleaning is easy , will be even easier on a transom , brighter works well and the sealer is none oily , none greasy etc .
We put 4 coats of sealer on .
Nothing to crack , peel or any other detrimental degrade .It just gradually fades and you redo it .
In the Med about annually , in the U.K.s UV depending on the boat berth orientation I would say longer .

pontoon as the control.The guy top LHS had something done to his by paid professionals…..it’s faded already .
I have been in the Med 17 yrs grappling with teak .As they say the old ones are the best ones .

Once dry , it doesn’t stick or stain clothing and beads to water .No residue , no removal of anything next time .

 

[vyv_cox]

I found with Deks Olje that it was effective on wood that had not been treated with anything previously. I also used it on my previously varnished toe rails where it lasted for only a few weeks.

 

[Zagato]

Starbright Tropical Teak Oil Sealant, Natural, for my teak transom and rubbing strakes. Wipe on with rag or brush on.
International Woodskin for the mast, spars etc. 5 coats and it lasts years in full sun... much nicer to paint than traditional varnish. I have had it on my oak house name plaque which is in full sun for 5 years now.

 

[vas]

Starbright Tropical Teak Oil Sealant, Natural, for my teak transom and rubbing strakes. Wipe on with rag or brush on.
International Woodskin for the mast, spars etc. 5 coats and it lasts years in full sun... much nicer to paint than traditional varnish. I have had it on my oak house name plaque which is in full sun for 5 years now.

curious, full sun in the UK or med?
I really like the rag wipe type of treating wood compared to brushes.

 

[Tranona]

How to ruin a quality boat…..use teak oil or Woodskin.
Do it properly and varnish it then have some covers made

What do you mean by "properly"? and can you explain how you can cover a transom on a Grand Banks or rubbing strakes on hull sides? If you are going to use covers then does not matter what coating you use.

Woodskin gives up to 5 years virtually maintenance free protection without using covers. Sikkens 2 part Nova on the mast of the boat in post #9 lasted 10 years with just one refresh. I expect the now Cetol coating to last just as long.

 

[Tranona]

would any of your suggestions work under the Med sun?
used D1/D2 following suggestions made here, only made it for just over a year in iroko cappings. Gave up!
Tried it again 3yrs ago in vertical hardtop strips of again iroko. The south facing one started breaking after 1yr, the north facing one managed 2+ A small area under the radar (well protected from the sun) has survived 3yrs and looks OK.
About to remove the hardtop strips (v.inconvenient place to work at!) strip them and use Semco and repeat every year (or if I have time twice a year) with just a clean in between.

D1/2 was a disaster for my mast - less than a year before the film broke down. Horizontal surfaces exposed to sun and rain are the most difficult, but you might try Woodskin and apply an extra coat each year before the film starts to break.

 

[vas]

I'd really love to use something that is not shiny, doesn't make a film but soaks in the wood (all iroko in my case).
This way whenever I have time, I can wash let dry and reapply without having to use tools to clean/sand/whatever.

 

[Poignard]

I'd really love to use something that is not shiny, doesn't make a film but soaks in the wood (all iroko in my case).
This way whenever I have time, I can wash let dry and reapply without having to use tools to clean/sand/whatever.

Epifanes RapidCoat might suit you.

 

[Zagato]

curious, full sun in the UK or med?
I really like the rag wipe type of treating wood compared to brushes.

UK ?