Teak or Tek ? issue resolved

pcatterall

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Got to do my after deck this winter. The sub ply is rotten and some of the bearing frames soft.
One dilema concerned the use of real teak or Tek Dek.
The area is only about 2' x 7' . The main structural deck is the plywood sub deck which is 5/8" or 3/4" thick, the 'teak' is just for appearance and grip.
6mm teak from Robbins was just over £100 (though I would have to buy more than needed for this job) Tek Dek works out at £130. Does this confound reports that real teak is far more expensive than 'plastic?
I belive that I will go for the Tek Dek product, just buy in strips, measure and cut to size and make up into a mat apart from measuring/making a paper pattern I can do all this at home.
The plywood sub base will be made to a patern at home and epoxied all round, after screwing onto the frames I will only have to seal the screw holes and edges to get a waterproof deck (what a luxury).
The Tek Dek can then just be glued down onto the sub deck.
One down side is that ther ewill be a join between the side and after deck, real teak running onto Tek Dek. I propose to terminate the side deck teak with an end piece to try to make it look like a design feature.
Hopefully I will not have to look at that part of the deck for a year or so!!
So... in my situation Tek Dek is slightly more expensive that the real thing but I feel it will be simpler to fit to get a 100% waterproof job and easier to maintain.
Regards
 
Hi
I need to do a similar job and would really like to see how you do it.
Could you either take lots of pictures and post them here or if you boat is in the northwest let me know and i'll come and look

Rob
 
G'day Peter,

Quote:
The plywood sub base will be made to a pattern at home and epoxied all round, after screwing onto the frames I will only have to seal the screw holes and edges to get a waterproof deck (what a luxury).
Unquote

Screw holes will be difficult to seal. If you want to avoid failure of the seal you can drill the screw holes oversize, fill with micro fibres and epoxy resin then re drill to the required size, this will ensure no ply is exposed.

To help penetration of the epoxy when coating the ply you can add Methylated Spirits to the epoxy after mixing in the hardener, up to 30% by volume will thin the resin enough to soak in. The edges will take around 8 applications to seal.

I hope this helps.

Avagoodnewyear......
 
Thanks OSO , for this. I use the thinned epoxy as you suggest, last time I just predrilled the screw holes and then epoxied but your suggestion is one better. I have previusly dripped resin over the fitted screws as well, it seems to do the trick. Also I will try a few more coats on the edges.
Excellent advice as usual!! Thanks.
 
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