Teak/Holly laminate flooring

[Richard_M]

Just purchased 4 sheets of 12mm teak/holly laminate from the warehouse clearance sale at Robbins Timber to replace my rather tatty cabin flooring. There are about 23 panels of different shape/size that I need to cut. Anyone done this before, any tips/suggestions gratefully received.

 

[boomerangben]

I guess this depends on the type of boat and type of laminate. Some laminates are based on MDF and are not suitable for use in damp conditions (they absorb moisture, expand and eventually break up).

As for cutting and shaping it, I used a table saw with fine blade to cut ceramic effect laminated tiles and it works very well and is very accurate.

 

[Stemar]

You can use a jigsaw, but a fine, sharp blade is essential, and cut from the underneath, or you'll get splinters lifting from the cut edges. Just remember to lay out your cuts upside down! (I speak from bitter experience /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif)

 

[TheoSr]

If you, like me, hate working on reversed images because sooner or later you will turn left where you should have turned right, for most jig saws you can buy reversed blades, sawing on the pushing stroke. These can be used if you want to avoid splintering and reversing errors as well.
Keep smiling!
Theo.

 

[Spuddy]

like theo says....used for cutting kitchen worktop etc.
as belt & braces could also use a stanley knife to go over cutting lines and also mark out your panels with a gap between each one to allow for sawing and cleaning up--- prabably about 4mm if you have a steady hand.
regards...spuddy

 

[Thistle]

These blades do make this kind of job easier but you do have to remember to hold the saw down a little more firmly because the saw is pushed up as the blade cuts down. (With a normal blade the cutting action tends to pull the saw towards the wood.) Also, because you're working on the face of the timber, make sure that the foot of the saw is completely free of any sharp edges which could scratch.

 

[PeterStone]

I've cut quite a few sheets of teak faced ply and I go along with those who prefer to work face up. I can't get on with the blades that cut on the down stroke because of the need to keep a much firmer grip on the saw which I find doesn't assist accurate cutting. Also any tendency for the blade to bend and wander from the perpendicular ensures a less than straight line on the opposite side. I have to admit also to finding the sight of splinters on cut edges unsettling, whichever side they are on.

My preferred method is to lay strong tape along the line of cut and draw the lines on top of the tape, which makes them much easier to see and follow. This minimises any tendency for splinters as the wood surface is held down by the tape, which must be pressed into the grain as it is laid. The saw is also held off the surface by the tape which reduces scratching. In addition I use a fine toothed metal cutting blade and work slowly.

 

[aidancoughlan]

For marking the templates prior to cutting, if there are curves/awkward corners involved, look in the tiling section of the local B&Q or similar - there is a tiling measurement tool which consists of lots of little rods packed together, each of which can receed into a block when pressed. If you extend them all out, then press it against a curve, the rods take on the shape of the curve, remove it and then trace onto the template. might be worth it if the teak & holly is expensive...