Teak decks

mulligan

Active Member
Joined
25 Oct 2001
Messages
68
Location
Lincolnshire
Visit site
I am thinking of getting a new deck fitted in Turkey, I currently have a marine ply deck which is sheathed can anyone tell me if I should be aware of any pitfalls and problems which may occure if a Teak deck is put on.

Regards

Ross

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Madness. Why spoil a perfectly good deck?

Glass cloth over ply is the best deck there is - strong, light, watertight and easy to keep clean and to maintain.

A teak deck, on the other hand, gets very hot, and very dirty, very easily. Anything from diesel to suntan oil will stain it. Bare wood decks were invented by the world's Navies to keep large crews occupied and exhausted and therefore un-mutinous, and yachts copied warships. Merchant ships and fishermen painted their decks.

I have very serious doubts about "teak over ply". By definition, the teak is thin which means by definition the seams will leak. By definition, the teak strips will retain the moisture leaking past them, and the ply will rot.

The least clever method is to screw down through the teak into the ply. Screwing up into the teak is cleverer, and some very clever people can put a teak deck on with no screws at all in it.

Ten people with teak over ply decks will now post here to prove me wrong, but I am not wrong....

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Mirelle's wrong cos I'm going to say he's right! I had a teak deck - now I have a glassed ply deck. the teak one leaked. This one doesn't. The teak was laid over marine ply which meant that you couldn't trace the source of the leak and the ply rotted. So did part of the beam shelf and some half beams. Took me a year to re deck her.

Teak looks great - just after a good wash with oxalic acid. Thereafter it gets very dirty as Mirelle says unless you'll going to be at sea a lot and get a lot of salt water on it. Mine leaked becausse it had been screwed through the marine ply into the beams and half beams using steel screws - maybe once galvanised. Screws rotted and teak moved too much for the caulking. Result - leaks.

Although it's not the done thing to say; I'm happier with the ply and glass deck and I think TG will lived longer. Sorry to be a dampner

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
I would lay the new deck on BARE sound ply (repair where ness), beddng it in sikaflex. Longevity?? Depends how the deck is laid. Mine is laid/glued to ply, then screwed with bronze screws, through the teak and ply, into the deck beams and plugged, the ply is 1" thick and the teak 3/4" thick, caulked, it's now 38 years old and watertight with no rot, (anywhere) also in the meddy. I have no problems with it getting very hot, I maybe don't notice, like the feel of it, the look of it, the non-slip of it and I'm not always cleaning it, a once a year scrubbish and salt water and mop the rest of the time, no diesel on it because I'm careful, the odd sausage dropped on it, cleans away. I have had to replace about 20 plugs, in nine years, deepen the screw holes, rebed the screws with linseed oil putty (thinned) and replug, with a smear of varnish. Over to you Mirelle.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Top