Teak decks again, again.

[bromleybysea]

Apologies for coming back to this yet again chaps. Anyone who has a leaky deck will know how obsessive it can get!

As I said in a previous post, I have a teak deck laid in a recess on the deck and thew coachroof so I don't have the option of simply taking it off and gelcoating the deck. My original plan was to take the existing deck up and fill all the screw holes and bed it down again with new plugs etc. It has been suggested that this might be a false economy and I should go for a new deck, but I think trying to bend and lay a new one would be beyond by ability. I have read up on the West system using thin teak planks and graphite loaded epoxy which seems a possible solution, using the existing decking. My questions are:

Has anyone used this system and how was it, is there a viable alternative to the suggested system of screws and washers to hold the planks in place while the epoxy cures- I really don't want to make any more holes in the deck! and lastly, what do you think the maximum thickness of the planks could be. Thanks for your patience!

 

[Chrusty1]

Given what you are saying, maybe this would be your easiest option?

http://www.kjhowells.com/coelan.html

 

[charles_reed]

[ QUOTE ]
Given what you are saying, maybe this would be your easiest option?

http://www.kjhowells.com/coelan.html

[/ QUOTE ]

I think his deck is coming off and he wants to stick it down again.

Personally I'd take it right off and replace it with a decking made of Treadmaster or the like, lighter, quieter and about 10% of the hassle and 40% of the cost.

And teak was only a 2nd rate substitute for nice white pine when it was introduced...

 

[Chrusty1]

If you're right, I think what you suggest is probably the best option........Teak / white pine....makes you wonder don't it?

Mind you hobnail boots play havoc with pine decks! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[nigelhudson]

Whilst I have installed teak decking I have always used "traditional" methods but I am aware of the epoxy-bedding system to which you refer. In the methods that I have researched it refers to rather thin sections - about 3mm. It may not work well with the thicker sections that are normally used for decks.

 

[acctutor]

Hi

I did exactly that to the stern deck of my mates Princess cruiser. Ground off the gel coat, laid down iroko planks 50mm x 4mm, and clamped them down with wood strips across the planks with screws between the planks. After the epoxy set - removed the clamp strips. We used West epoxy and caulked with black mastic (sorry cannot remember the make). I knew the boat for five years - no movement, no lifting planks - good job!!!

Bill

 

[Tranona]

Bedding in epoxy and then "caulking" with pigmented or graphited epoxy filler is viable provided you use veneers - up to about 4mm thick, and preferably straight rather than swept. There is a good section in the Gougeon Bros book on the subject, but they advise against the method for whole decks. Two reasons, first epoxy means it is rigid and therefore potential difficulties with differential expansion of teak and substrate and secondly, because veneers are thin potential wear means short life.

However, I did my cockpit seats this way over 15 years ago and they are as good as new, but they are under a full cover and only get "bum" wear. Would not do the same for a complete deck.

I have just veneered a GRP bathing platform using Sika as an adhesive and caulking. Seems OK so far.

For an existing deck I would be tempted to remove the planks, assuming they are not stuck down and can be re-used, fill the screw holes and stick the planks back on with Sika and no screws, just plenty of weights to hold them down while the adhesive cures. You will of course have to plug all the old screw holes in the planks and caulk the seams.

Hope this helps