Teak deck repair, any knowledgeable woodworkers here?

[[2574]]

I have some damage to a corner of a lazarette lid that I’d like to fix. It’s been damaged by it being flung open and hitting a stanchion behind it. Below are two pictures showing the damage.

I really don’t want to replace the entire plank and was thinking of maybe using a router to cut the bad section from the plank, maybe 6mm deep (12mm planks) then glue a new section in. But the proximity of the screw and plug makes this more difficult. I need a Leo Goolden standard quality fix and I’m not sure my wood butcher skills are up to the job. Does anyone have comments/suggestions on my solution or a better solution? Perhaps it’s best left alone but it does spoil the deck and I’d like to repair it.

Thanks in advance.

 

[BabaYaga]

I think the best option for getting a robust and next to invisible repair would be to cut away, by router, the entire outer section of the plank, full depth, so that the joint will run along with the grain. A new piece of wood can then be glued and screwed (with plugs) from the side of the lid to the existing wood. Make it a little over size and adjust to the opening and caulking grooves when cured.

 

[Hacker]

Unless you can source some decent teak of the same shade of grey it’s going to be difficult to achieve a perfect result. I would cut out a full depth piece making sure that the edges are perfect. Then glue in a replacement ( a tad oversize and trim once set). Worth taking time to get the grain direction to match. Sun and rain exposure should help to achieve a good colour match but could take a year or so.

 

[Concerto]

It might be easier to just do an angle slice about 5cm long and then add a similar slightly over sized slice ensuring the grain is aligned. Glue and pin (not screw) to the existing wood. Then trim to fit. You will need to clean the rest of the deck to stop any repair from being so obvious and it will weather in over time, so it will be difficult to spot.

 

[[2574]]

Thanks all. When we talk glue are we thinking wood glue where it’s teak on teak and maybe Sika where it’s teak on GRP?

 

[Concerto]

Thanks all. When we talk glue are we thinking wood glue where it’s teak on teak and maybe Sika where it’s teak on GRP?

A waterproof PVA or Gorilla glue should be good on teak to teak and Sika on the GRP would certainly hold it in place.

 

[burgundyben]

I greatly admire the attention to detail here.

The trouble with teak in my experience (a mere 20 years of wooden boats) is that nothing will stick to teak for ever, it's the oilyness.

I think if it was me I'd be making a whole new piece and gluing and screwing it.

I'd epoxy it down. Then caulk with sika. Plug the screws. Then trim and sand.

Who am I trying to kid, I'd leave it.

 

[Blueboatman]

As per Concerto
Use a sharp snap off type knife running along a FIRMLY KNELT ON metal edge ( eg back edge of a long hand saw )
Score with the knife , score again , bit more pressure, etc etc
And (!) you might angle the cut inwards towards the hatch cover , this gives you a greater glueing area. But in this instance I wouldn’t suggest that you do , it’s an added complication in dexterity ..

Now, before gluing , drill laterally through the new and the old , one or two holes will do, and do a dry run with thin screws , probably no 4 size and a discrete counterbore to plug the screw head
Then and only then glue up, I would simply use exterior wood glue . Let the screws give it mechanical strength
Once dried use some 120grt Sandpaper/wide chisel / block plane /cabinet scrape /whichever you are comfortable using and actually own.. and sand or pare it down flush.
Teak is great stuff to work as it is so soft , it is forgiving , take your time and so long as you have made an effort to align grain between new and existing, it will be an invisible mend before one month of autumn wind and rain ?
Jobs a good un.
?

 

[PlankWalker]

You'll never get it to mach initially, freshly planed teak is never grey, it just goes from brown to grey over the years as it oxidizes.
I don't know of any way to speed this process up.

 

[PlankWalker]

Epoxy glues teak well, just rub the mating surfaces with acetone on a rag, and let dry before gluing.
Ive got 40 year old epoxy clued teak with no failures, and epoxy is much better now than it was then.

 

[BabaYaga]

You'll never get it to mach initially, freshly planed teak is never grey, it just goes from brown to grey over the years as it oxidizes.
I don't know of any way to speed this process up.

In my experience the weathering process is rather rapid, though.
I laid a new teak deck in 2008. For various reasons I became delayed with the anchor box lid, which was installed two months later.
This photo below shows how much the colour changes in such short time, when exposed to the elements.

 

[sailaboutvic]

I just wonder how many here have given advice how to fix it would in reality be able to do a good job then self on a odd places where Robin has his problem .
As for colour match , I wouldn't worry , I did a small damage on a toe rail and by the next year you couldn't see where it was matched .
By the way I used glue teak on teak and had no problems with it sticking .

 

[Skylark]

Hi @Robih

I had a king plank lift a couple of seasons ago. Graeme gave me a recommendation for a local wood butcher but in the event I took the boat just around the corner as it was repaired under warranty. They made a good job, now unnoticeable. Happy to pass on contact details if you don’t fancy DIY.

 

[Hacker]

I just wonder how many here have given advice how to fix it would in reality be able to do a good job then self on a odd places where Robin has his problem .

As I teach boatbuilding, I think I could.

 

[sailaboutvic]

As I teach boatbuilding, I think I could.

Great hey Robin Hacker happy to fix it for you

 

[[2574]]

Great hey Robin Hacker happy to fix it for you

It’s just the 600 miles between the boat and Hacker to overcome!

 

[Hacker]

Beeing down in Cornwall has many advantages!

 

[Fr J Hackett]

The more I think about it the only good and undetectable repair would be to replace the whole strip as any small repair whilst being OK and largely undetectable along the grain would also have a cross grain cut and join which would be obvious. I think careful sanding of the torn ragged edge running it onto good undamaged wood would be the better ( easier ) solution, you would know and see it all the time but no one else would notice it.

 

[sailaboutvic]

It’s just the 600 miles between the boat and Hacker to overcome!

That's no problem , he sounds a ace guy , I'm sure he come over to you , you can treat him to lunch to make up for the 600 miles

 

[[2574]]

The more I think about it the only good and undetectable repair would be to replace the whole strip as any small repair whilst being OK and largely undetectable along the grain would also have a cross grain cut and join which would be obvious. I think careful sanding of the torn ragged edge running it onto good undamaged wood would be the better ( easier ) solution, you would know and see it all the time but no one else would notice it.

Yes, I suspect that's the only complete solution. I think I might contemplate this for another three months! Just finding enough teak to replace the plank will be the first headache. I suspect I'll end up attempting a repair and if the outcome is unsatisfactory will replace the entire plank.