Teak deck maintenance. Replacing screw plugs. Part 2

[noswellplease]

Thanks for the advice on 24th. I think that the main problem with screw plugs dislodging is basically that there is not enough debth for the plug to take a good grip. In most of the cases where the plugs are missing its less than a quarter inch to the screw head. What I'm wondering? If I remove the screws which appear to be very firmly bedded and replace with a slightly shorter screw then would I not also need to add some epoxy into the hole base so the new screw gets a firm grip. I then need to drill out a slightly deeper recess for the new plug, and hope that no further problems are encountered. The screws that I have tested seem to be so firmly embedded that it seems a bit foolish to be touching them in the first place. Has anyone actually encountered my kind of situation and how did they deal with it? Thats my dilemma. It would be easy to just glaze over with epoxy but that would diminish what is an otherwise nice teak deck! Russ

 

[pvb]

Low-profile screws...

It's possible to get special low-profile head screws which will help to increase the plug depth without needing to drill out the recess. Hallberg-Rassy sell them as part of a kit including teak plugs, so you should be able to source the screws separately somewhere.

 

[Goldie]

I've done exactly as you suggest, but using a dob of Sikaflex on the end of the new (shorter) screw. It's a progresive job, but I reckon I've done about 150 over the last 3 years - none have come out and no sign of leaks. The original teak deck was 5/8" of solid teak so plenty of thickness left. If you have a lot to do and access to a bench drill, buy a plug cutter and avoid swindlery prices.

 

[tillergirl]

Drilling out the recess will not be easy unless you can inf a countersink bit of exactly the right size - not impossible but can be difficult. Also just how thick is the teak that's left? Is it going to be possible to countersink further? You should not need as much as 1/4 of an inch recess to get a plug to stick but if the teak is worn down so there is not much more than 2mm you will have trouble. So the low profile screw head is a good way to go. I think Goldie's option is a good idea since you will be disturbing an existing threaded hole but please don't use epoxy for the reasons I said before - it will be impossible to do any further repairs on that screw, it's over specified for the job, you will have trouble with pot life if you have a lot to do and it will be messy. Remember that the plug is the waterproofing bit. The original screws will not have been put in with any mastic or glue. That's why you are gluing in plugs to give a watertight finish - not just to look smart.

Over coat the whole lot with epoxy would be the crime of the century - it will look c**p, adhere poorly and decrease the value of the boat.
You need to do some investigating with a test 'hole'. If having removed the screw, you have no depth of teak left to further countersink the wood, you only have the low profile screw option or to try to be v delicate in getting a new plug to adhere in a shallow recess - no harm with a good daub of pva glue - leave to thoroughly dry before cutting as discussed in the previous thread.

 

[Billjratt]

you don't say if the teak is epoxied as well as screwed. Mine is, and at 29years old, has been sanded to death by previous owners. I recon I could take out a few screws altogether and plug the holes without the boat falling to bits (Marcon Claymore) What do you guys think?

 

[noswellplease]

Thanks again for the valuable information. On some screws the clearance is only about 3 mm or less which probably explains why the plugs came out in the first place. The teak deck itself appears to be of a good thickness so I think it should be possible to countersink down another couple of mm and get more room for the plug. As the whole process is quite specialised I think it best to get the proper tools for the job. The teak plugs I found onboard are 10.5 mm in diameter so I guess a 10 mm holesaw would give a tight fit. The teak has not been epoxied before as far as I can make out. I'll check out the Halberg-Rassy site and maybe order some teak plugs from them. Thanks again for all the advice its much appreciated ... Russ

 

[Blueboatman]

Myself I would (and have done this) make some new plugs,set them edge on on an old wooden block and then cleave them with a sharp chisel and mallet/hammer to produce usable wafer thin dowels(success rate typically 3 out of 5 plugs cleaved) and simply sikaflex/glue these over the existing screws and finish with a light sanding when cured.
I would not attempt to disturb the screws or teak countersunk at all.

 

[damo]

That's why in the previous thread I suggested getting the next size up plug cutter and bit and drilling out slightly larger and deeper.

Another method, possibly no more time consuming, is to remove the screws, plug the holes, and drill and plug new screws alongside.

I am in the same situation, with oversanded teak decks, and I intend to strip the lot and have some nice non-slip /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif