Tamd40b

Neptunus 10sixy

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Hi all,
Just purchased a neptunus with twin tamd40b,
Question,,
I have the calorifier plumbed to one engine, i was advised to plumb water out from a blank at the engine water pump and return to a blank at header tank,
Engine only runs at about 60 degrees temp,
It seems to be only luke warm in calorifier

So looking info on engine thermostats,
If its a 70 degrees stat, does that mean the loop on engine and also calorifier wont open until engine reaches 70 degree,
Only stats i can find is 70 or 79
 
Perhaps the thermostats are stuck open? That will result in the engine never reaching proper operating temperature.
 
On my KADs and although the thermostat housing is different it should still work the same.

Mine goes from a plug in the coolant pump to the thermostat housing. That way the calorifier is always at the same temp as the coolant. It does take a bit longer for the engine to warm up but honestly it's marginal

Coolant pump blanking plug 14
6418.jpg

to thermostat housing 47
8558.jpg

You will need the pipe adapters for them
 
On my KADs and although the thermostat housing is different it should still work the same.

Mine goes from a plug in the coolant pump to the thermostat housing. That way the calorifier is always at the same temp as the coolant. It does take a bit longer for the engine to warm up but honestly it's marginal

Coolant pump blanking plug 14
View attachment 116984

to thermostat housing 47
View attachment 116986

You will need the pipe adapters for them
What temps does your run at
 
I have TAMD40bs and the colorifier is plumbed to a blank on the water pump and a blank on the front of the heat exchanger.

The B’s have a pair of thermostats in the top of the heat exchangers operating at different temps (I forget which temps).

I get hot water quite fast so I’m assuming that the calorifier circuit is running prior to the thermostats opening.

How hard are you running the engines and still maintaining low temps ( my experience of these engines is that cooling capacity is marginal at higher rpm s unless everything is tip top)?
 
Last edited:
What temps does your run at

My engines run at 77C at displacement speed and at 85 at cruise. However please note I had presumed your thermostat housing plug was below your thermostats like mine are. If they are not I'd take Dragoons method. Pump to heat exchanger. On mine (KAD) the heat exchanger circuit only opens with the thermostats which is what we dont really want.
 
I have TAMD40bs and the colorifier is plumbed to a blank on the water pump and a blank on the front of the heat exchanger.

The B’s have a pair of thermostats in the top of the heat exchangers operating at different temps (I forget which temps).

I get hot water quite fast so I’m assuming that the calorifier circuit is running prior to the thermostats opening.

How hard are you running the engines and still maintaining low temps ( my experience of these engines is that cooling capacity is marginal at higher rpm s unless everything is tip top)?


Hi, i only had them running WOT for a short while, as i think that one engine might need flushed out on the raw water cooling side, as when i rev up the engine the raw water filter housing lid swells up a bit, as if there is hugh pressure building up in filter, the filters are after the water pump on these tamds,
And defo not as much water coming out the exhaust on this engine.
So as u say maybe it would heat better with more rev
 
Hi, i only had them running WOT for a short while, as i think that one engine might need flushed out on the raw water cooling side, as when i rev up the engine the raw water filter housing lid swells up a bit, as if there is hugh pressure building up in filter, the filters are after the water pump on these tamds,
And defo not as much water coming out the exhaust on this engine.
So as u say maybe it would heat better with more rev

Yes, these engines plug along along the raw water system. I had one do that which blew the rubber boot off the back of the heat exchanger at speed!

Favorite places for build up salty crud are;

- the pipe from the strainer to the oil cooler. Take it out and knock it with some wood. You may find large chunks of salt come out of it.
- the oil cooler - these block frequently and are a pain to get to (being at almost sump level)
- the pipe from the rubber boot on the heatexchanger that runs to the exhaust elbow and gearbox. As for the other pipe - I found one blocked almost solid creating a lot of backpressure

When you get them clear, flush with Rydlime (spelling?) once a season. I can give you guidance on how I do this if it's helpful.


Cheers,
Paul
 
Yes, these engines plug along along the raw water system. I had one do that which blew the rubber boot off the back of the heat exchanger at speed!

Favorite places for build up salty crud are;

- the pipe from the strainer to the oil cooler. Take it out and knock it with some wood. You may find large chunks of salt come out of it.
- the oil cooler - these block frequently and are a pain to get to (being at almost sump level)
- the pipe from the rubber boot on the heatexchanger that runs to the exhaust elbow and gearbox. As for the other pipe - I found one blocked almost solid creating a lot of backpressure

When you get them clear, flush with Rydlime (spelling?) once a season. I can give you guidance on how I do this if it's helpful.


Cheers,
Paul
Hi,
Thats great Paul, ill give these a check and get back to u
Thanks
 
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