swaged or swageless?

homer

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I am planning to replace the standing rigging this year and will have the rigging professionally made up (although I will fit it myself). Some riggers offer swaged fittings and some offer swageless - is there anything to choose between them?
 
If you get Norseman or Swagelock you could do it all yourself. Done mine the past and its not difficult. They are excellent fittings and failure is unheard of. I will wait for the reply now saying how they have failed!
 
The advantage with swageless is the ability to cut the stays to fit and possibility of taking apart and reforming yourself. Downside is generally more expensive and more work to fit. Swaged fittings are simple, relatively cheap and reduce the amounbt of time on installation. However, need to be sure your swage operator knows how to do them properly and the measurements of the stays are correct.
 
Another option is to have swagged fitting up top where you can't get to easily, have wires a bit longer than needed and fit swageless at the bottom. As has been pointed out they are very reliable and can be dismantled for corrosian inspections or for alterations. This system allows you to be slightly out with measurements too, you get some leeway with the length. You will need some good wirecutters though. Screwfix do the Forge Steel range I used a pair to cut 12mm ss for Naida's rig, they worked perfectly and still good. Wrap some tape around the wire befor you cut stops end getting raggy.
 
I am planning to replace the standing rigging this year and will have the rigging professionally made up (although I will fit it myself). Some riggers offer swaged fittings and some offer swageless - is there anything to choose between them?

Swageless is easy but not all the fittings are available. What I have done on several boats is to get Z spars to make up the rigging over length and with the mast fitting swaged on. They supply swageless for the bottom end. Then I take the mast down, cut the new rigging to loength alongside the old, attacht the swageless fitting ( easy job) and save serious moiney compared to a rigger.

Unless you are prepared to make rigging yourself, I see no point at all in having swageless fittings.
 
I agree with swaged fittings on the top, depending on type you may not be able to buy swageless fittings for the top ends, IE if "T" or spoon type fittings, bottom ends can be swageless but the cost will be higher for the fittings but no labour charge. Get a quote for both and compare the price. Sta Lok's are good if you decide to go swageless.
 
When fitting new rigging I had to use a swageless staylock fitting at the bottom on the forestay in order to be able to re-fit my Harken furler. It was easy to do and I found cutting the wire to length was best achieved by binding the wire with gaffer tape and cutting through the tape with a junior hacksaw while holding the wire in a vice. I did a trial cut just to be sure.
 
If you are going to the tropics swageless fittings are far more reliable despite the protestations of a rigger I know that rubbishes the likes of Norsaman and Staloks. He was supposed to have been a rigger for 25 years ..... but he didn't even know how to use his swaging machine properly: he would rotate the swage 90 degrees after the first swage for a second pass to get rid of the shoulders!!!!

I prefer Norsman as the assembly is easier .... but it may be just because I'm more practiced with them. One tip though : use loctite to lubricate the threads to prevent gauling (cold welding) of the threads. The loctite will remain fluid whilst the fitting is taken apart before the final assembly.
 
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