Suzuki DT6

Billows

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My outboard had poor idling.After a 'service' with a local dealer it is even worse.I was told the engine was old and there was probably something wrong with the carburetor which was cleaned.The plugs were also 'cleaned and gaped'.It starts ok with full choke but in the idle throttle range it will cut after 10 seconds.I notice in this range only the timing is altered and no movement of carburetor arm. Runs fine if you up the revs.Below is a schematic of the carburetor.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Suzuki/Outboard/1995/DT6/CARBURETOR/parts.html

Adjusting the pilot air has no effect nor has the choke.If I was to try to remove the pilot jet how easy is it?I am afraid of mashing the head as it looks soft.Should I try new plugs?
 
I had the same problem with my dt4,no idle and it would just die when you dropped the revs to a slow trolling speed.I tried adjusting it,stripped it,cleaned it(inc the little pin holes) then bent the float tang slightly all to no avail.
With the only visable corroded part(base of brass tube going into bowl)being irreplaceable i bought a new carb for about £100 and it ran perfect even getting extra rpms.
 
New plugs are often worth a try. Easy to do and sometimes seems to cure faults that one would not attribute to dodgy plugs.

Not familiar with the Suzuki but I'd have expected the throttle valve to start opening just a little almost as soon as the control is advanced. You need the details in the workshop manual to set it up probably. An authorized Suzuki dealer should be able to do it! Is there any adjustment ?

Choking does not help so a dirty carb is not indicated. If its been cleaned it should be OK provided its not had contaminated fuel in it. I think i'd check the idle jet is truly clean. Poke a soft copper wire through it. you say it looks soft ? not brass? Use a good fitting and correctly ground screwdriver.
Fuel is fresh, not last years gone stale?

Idle speed correct ? A small increase does not solve the problem? Opening the throttle stop screw a little does not help?

If it runs Ok for 10 seconds possibly a fuel supply or pump problem but they normally run for a good deal longer on a carb full

Carb fuel level correct. Normally needle valves close as the float becomes parallel with the carb body. ( ie horizontal)

If you fiddle with either of the mixture adjustments be sure you can return then to their original settings.
 
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There are three indicators on the throttle handle, slow, start(about halfway up the range of movement) and fast. The throttle arm on the carb does not move until throttle handle position is past the start indicator.Once the throttle arm moves the engine will not stall but highish revs of course.There is an adjustment (3).
Do not think its fuel pump as raising the tank above level of engine does not help?I have flushed my tank as when it came back from dealer, it would start first easy pull, now it takes a few hefty pulls. Seems to start easier when cold too.There is some oil appearing in the pan too which is a mystery.
It is such a light engine I would like to get to the bottom of it.
 
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Screw #3 is a throttle stop setting on the carb. Have you tried screwing this in a little? If the throttle valve is closing too far then it wont idle but I'd expect it to stall immediately , rather than run for 10 seconds
 
I have notice on examining the plug electrodes, one is dry, the other has an oily residue.What is significance of this if any?
 
My outboard had poor idling.After a 'service' with a local dealer it is even worse.I was told the engine was old and there was probably something wrong with the carburetor which was cleaned.

I took out the pilot jet and pilot needle.I soaked them for an hour in a glass of automotive carb cleaner.I used a toothbrush fibre in a vicegrips to ream out the little orifices.I replaced them and hey presto, engine is now idling ok

That's one local dealer you wont be rushing back to in a hurry then
 
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