Suzuki 2.2 very thin metal sheet around prop shaft.....

Captain Crisp

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Hi,
there seems to be a paper thin curled metal sheet that goes between the prop and the prop shaft... Unfortunately, it's a bit degraded and I can't get the prop on with it in place. Without it, the prop has a slight jiggle on the shaft.
It doesn't seem to show up on exploded parts diagrams. And is definitely not the spacer here.
Which doesn't seem to exist on my model...
I think it would be easy to recreate, but I'm not sure what the material is... Or if it's really necessary... any thoughts?
Many thanks!
CrispPXL_20210123_162108787~2.jpg
 
A shim .... perhaps something a PO might have added to tighten the fit of the prop on the shaft

Perhaps it explains why you had so much difficulty removing the prop

Maybe brass. I have couple of tins of brass shim ( foil) strip in various thicknesses from 0.002" to 0.015"

Mic it up to see what thickness it is.
If the prop really is too slack on the shaft without it try a thinner shim.
 
Trim the length of the shim by half and put it on the shaft first. It might just be enough for the prop to fit on, depending on which part of the taper is slack.

I once found a steering column shimmed in its support bearing with a trimmmed down coke can.
 
Trim the length of the shim by half and put it on the shaft first. It might just be enough for the prop to fit on, depending on which part of the taper is slack.

I once found a steering column shimmed in its support bearing with a trimmmed down coke can.
Taper ?
 
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Is it a bad thing if the prop is a bit loose on the shaft? I suppose it puts more pressure on the shaft pin. I'm tempted to leave this shim thing out. Much easier to service!
 
You probably need to investigate where the looseness actually arises from. You might well be able to shim it out but, as you say, don't want to do this by putting too much pressure on the shear pin in case you simply shear it. You might be able to shim the nut end and slightly elongate the holes which accommodate the shear pin so that it is not overstressed.

Richard
 
I can't help wondering if it's not actually the right prop. No harm in that if the pitch/diameter work for you, but it might explain the need for a shim - and yes, that pin does look a wee bit short, can't see it really mattering though.
 
Is it a bad thing if the prop is a bit loose on the shaft? I suppose it puts more pressure on the shaft pin. I'm tempted to leave this shim thing out. Much easier to service!
I'd expect the prop to be an easy sliding fit on the shaft
Consider a thinner shim . What thickness is the existing one ? I am sure its not original it would be shown in the parts list if it was.

(ITYWF that the spacer shown on the parts diagram is on the shaft between the gear and the bearing )
 
Hi,
there seems to be a paper thin curled metal sheet that goes between the prop and the prop shaft... Unfortunately, it's a bit degraded and I can't get the prop on with it in place. Without it, the prop has a slight jiggle on the shaft.
It doesn't seem to show up on exploded parts diagrams. And is definitely not the spacer here.
Which doesn't seem to exist on my model...
I think it would be easy to recreate, but I'm not sure what the material is... Or if it's really necessary... any thoughts?
Many thanks!
CrispView attachment 107655

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If it doesn't fit send it back. Careful not to damage it.
 
Looks like a non standard prop that has been bodged to make it fit. Without the shim, evidence of serious wobble is the wear on the hole - does the taper on the shaft match that on the prop ?
Taper ?
Is the shaft tapered ?
 
Don't worry about using a drinks can to make shims. They are made of aluminium less that 5 thousandths of an inch thick, and are the ideal material if you are shimming an aluminium prop.
 
Think that’s clearly been wrapped around a shear pin that’s not right for the set up ?
seen worse. Not as bad as a cut down nail as a sheer pin,haha.
 
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