Superglue for plywood to acrylic?

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prv

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A while ago I built some little boxes (to hold teabags etc) out of very thin ply. I used quick-setting superglue, which was really convenient as it set in less than 10 seconds so I could just hold parts together (no clamping) and do lots of different joints in one sitting. I assume part of the reason it worked so fast was the porosity of the wood, meaning there was only ever a very thin film of liquid in the joint (the rest having soaked in).

Does the forum reckon I'll get similar behaviour if I use the same glue for plywood onto acrylic?

Cheers,

Pete
 
Hi Pete,

Super glue (cyano acrylate) should work on plastics but isn't gap filling so you need a good contact fit. I would suggest testing it on a small piece if you can to be sure it doesn't damage/melt the acrylic. If it runs it'll make a mess too...

You can get various thicknesses and curing speeds of cyano acrylate in model shops. (Zap is a brand I have used)

Otherwise you could try 5 minute epoxy (Devcon, Araldite) which is more gap filling I think...

Jon
 
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This is to glue some stiffening ply onto the back of a large engraved electrics panel, so it shouldn't need any gap filling (flat face to flat face). I only have the one panel which is why I can't just test it myself. I already have the glue - B&Q own brand "ten second" superglue (which is cyanoacrylate). I just wonder because although it set in a few seconds on plywood-to-plywood, when I used it for something less porous the parts instead skated around on a film of glue. Obviously acrylic isn't porous.

I could use the standard epoxy I have, but curing time then makes it a two-sitting job where the superglue, if it worked, would be a few minutes.

Cheers,

Pete
 
Zap superglue comes in many types. It is a very good brand. go to your model shop and ask for Zap Kicker. It is a spray that is sprayed on one surface. This forces the superglue to set. apparently super glue needs a tiny bit of moisture to set so breathing on one surface can help! but Zap Kicker is the stuff!!!
 
The porosity helps but if you have 'contact' it should work fine.

CA melts some types of foam but should be ok for plastic (no guarantees!) just be careful you don't splash etc because the even the fumes can cause 'blooms' if close to a laquered surface...
 
Maybe laquer is the wrong word...

All I mean is that it can damage the surfaces of some finishes - like my desk!

Best bet is to test it really... just a tiny dab on the back of the panel would do?
 
Little Rascal said:
All I mean is that it can damage the surfaces of some finishes - like my desk!
Click to expand...

Ah :)

I wouldn't be doing this kind of thing at my indoor desk! My workshop in the garden has a sturdy bench topped with thick bathroom-floor chipboard. I don't think it'll mind a bit of superglue. The only job I bother covering / protecting it for is welding.

Pete
 
sometimes when I glue stuff I use 2 glues, araldite perhaps with super glue to hold while the araldite sets or sometimes mitrefix with pva for other things the idea can be used with all sorts of things . THe result can be more reliable
 
Pete,

Sorry, I'm not explaining myself very well - I'm not worrying about your bench!!! :D

I was just an example: Put a dab of CA on some plastic surfaces (or steel FWIW) and it will cause a 'bloom' close around it even though the glue hasn't touched it.

Just saying be careful so as not to mess up the front of the panel...

However I'm sure it'll work fine! :D

Jon
 
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