Suggestions for a new galley surface.

Lazy Kipper said:
I'm puzzled as well because that looks a good option. Why would it expand and contract more than the interior wood which may also be that thick?
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Chances are the original galley is plywood covered in Formica laminate. Plywood is more stable as the veneers are laid at right angle to each other to make up the thickness. With wood veneer because of its thinness, is limited to small variations of expansion in each layer making it quite stable.
The work top in question, being made from solid timber and also multiple blocks even though of reasonably equal moisture content, could expand at different rates caused by the density of the individual blocks makeup, thereby causing it to be unstable. I can only assume that by epoxy coating it and excluding the possibility of adding moisture would help, so it could be more stable than oiled which is it’s normal finish?. But to be honest it is really too thick for the job in question IMHO as it would cause a lot of unnecessary work accommodating it with the existing ( Splashback ) fitments due to its added thickness.
The suggestion of using Altro flooring material is a good one, if you can find a finish you are happy with but the thickness is about 3 – 5 mm by memory, so still has the associated problems due to its thickness. It will also still need to be fixed with impact adhesive the same as Formica laminate.
 
parsifal said:
if I was doing the job again I would probably use small ceramic tiles with epoxy adhesive and grout, which I used successfully in the kitchen at home.
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Well, I'm glad someone likes it. I've encountered this approach in both student kitchens and charter yachts and think it's one of the nastiest worktop surfaces going! :)

Pete
 
prv said:
Well, I'm glad someone likes it. I've encountered this approach in both student kitchens and charter yachts and think it's one of the nastiest worktop surfaces going! :)

Pete
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Why so?

It seems to me to have a lot going for it. Easy to clean, easy to install, waterproof, visually attractive, easy to repair (if you keep a couple of spare tiles), heatproof.
 
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parsifal said:
It seems to me to have a lot going for it. Easy to clean, easy to install, waterproof, visually attractive, easy to repair (if you keep a couple of spare tiles), heatproof.
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I find them ugly, though obviously that's a personal thing.

They're also far less easy to clean than a smooth homogenous surface of formica (or wood-block, or corian, or stainless-steel, or more or less any other common kitchen surface). Run a cloth across it and loads of food gets left behind in the grout-lines between the tiles.

Easy to repair doesn't seem like a high priority, given that I've never broken a kitchen worktop in the first place.

I'll give you heatproof.

Pete
 
You could always try the French 'Rene's Cafe' look and sheet zinc!

Tile is IMO like Pete says , f'kin awful..

It looks tacky unless done immaculately, is slippy, noisy, and the grout traps water and stain, it is cold, water condenses on it. it is endlessly fiddly to fit in a balanced way and the edges are sharp.. and nead trimming in yet more wood...fiddly

(Did I say I am not as fan?)

Trick to the OP: epoxy seal the edges and back of every single piece of woood before you fit , glue or bed it onto the boat inside and you will not get moisture related movement...b ut it takes a lot more forethought!
 
I used this stuff. Excellent and easy to work. eBay 260905064049, but make sure it is supplied in the 6mm layer only, without the chipboard backing.

I have some off cuts left if you want to see some. Photos of the finished job are on my blogsite.
 
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