Stuck loo outlet ballvalve.

[jakeroyd]

My loo has the standard 1.5" seacock on it for waste to exit the boat.
This has been getting stiff for some time and noe won't move.
As fate would have it it's in the open position.

I know I will have to replace it.
As we all know the sliding surface of the ball corrodes and hangs up on the seals.

When this happened on my other boat and being youg and stupid I forced the handle and broke it off.

Now being older and maybe not quite so stupid I would like to ask this question ?

On my other boat the flat the handle drives on just sheared off , this may have been designed this way so you don't break anything else and have a flood.

On my current boat I could take the handle off and attempt to mole grip the shaft.

has anybody succeeded in doing this ?

If so I could maybe work it loose again.

 

[Caladh]

...well you could try. I had a similar issue with my exit seacock last season and "forced" it to work. However when the boat was put back in the water the seal to the hull had been broken and water was seaping in, necessitating an immediate lift out.......Change it now whilst you have the opportunity.

 

[charles_reed]

My loo has the standard 1.5" seacock on it for waste to exit the boat.
This has been getting stiff for some time and noe won't move.
As fate would have it it's in the open position.

I know I will have to replace it.
As we all know the sliding surface of the ball corrodes and hangs up on the seals.

When this happened on my other boat and being youg and stupid I forced the handle and broke it off.

Now being older and maybe not quite so stupid I would like to ask this question ?

On my other boat the flat the handle drives on just sheared off , this may have been designed this way so you don't break anything else and have a flood.

On my current boat I could take the handle off and attempt to mole grip the shaft.

has anybody succeeded in doing this ?

If so I could maybe work it loose again.

Change it (probably the shaft has sheared) - look at replacing with one in Marelon rather than another brass one.

 

[Tranona]

Change it (probably the shaft has sheared) - look at replacing with one in Marelon rather than another brass one.

However, seizing of the ball through inactivity is a problem with non metallic valves as well, as is potential shearing of the handle. The solution is prevention of build up round the ball and hole by regular operation. Works with both metal and non metallic valves.

 

[Spirit of Glenans]

However, seizing of the ball through inactivity is a problem with non metallic valves as well, as is potential shearing of the handle. The solution is prevention of build up round the ball and hole by regular operation. Works with both metal and non metallic valves.

+1, but also flush down some cooking oil from time to time.

 

[vyv_cox]

+1, but also flush down some cooking oil from time to time.

Difficult to understand how cooking oil is going to pass the nylon seats and get to the ball of an open valve. Regular exercising is a more reliable method.

 

[jakeroyd]

As I said it was getting stiff.
I left it open over winter on the hard but I guess weather got to it.
I'm aware of the Marelon valves but need time out of the water to fit one since looking quickly at the installation guide you need a smaller hole than a conventional ball valve and maybe need to glue backing pads on etc.

 

[Spirit of Glenans]

Difficult to understand how cooking oil is going to pass the nylon seats and get to the ball of an open valve. Regular exercising is a more reliable method.

Oops! I think the oil is meant to benefit the pump

 

[Tranona]

As I said it was getting stiff.
I left it open over winter on the hard but I guess weather got to it.
I'm aware of the Marelon valves but need time out of the water to fit one since looking quickly at the installation guide you need a smaller hole than a conventional ball valve and maybe need to glue backing pads on etc.

If it is still out of the water then doused it in penetrating oil - squirt it up from outside and stuff a rag in the hole. Leave for a couple of days and then try to free it. Almost certainly there is a ring of crusty deposits around the edge of the ball and once freed it will be OK. The valves are very robust and don't wear. The stiffness comes partly from the size of the ball in relation to the leverage of the handle, so extending the handle with a tube will help move the ball.

 

[GrahamM376]

As I said it was getting stiff.
I left it open over winter on the hard but I guess weather got to it.
I'm aware of the Marelon valves but need time out of the water to fit one since looking quickly at the installation guide you need a smaller hole than a conventional ball valve and maybe need to glue backing pads on etc.

I've replaced all our through hulls and valves with TruDesign. They are a direct replacement for bronze, dzr, etc. and I would suggest if the through hulls are old, replace those as well. http://www.leesan.com/index.asp?m=3&cat1=3&cat2=40&p=437&t=Tru Design Ball Valve 90235, 1 ½” BSP

 

[jakeroyd]

Thanks for the link Graham.
they look like a very suitable non metallic replacement