Strange alternator charging on a Volvo Penta (regulator sensor wire)

icarusbop

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Hello:

I have a Volvo Penta D2-55 engine with the standard (Valeo A13N234) 60A Alternator fitted.
I noticed the alternator has a short yellow wire coming out of the case which was connected directly to the B+ terminal on the alternator.
I did some research and found that it is for the regulator, the recommendation is you disconnect it from the B+ terminal and run a connection from it to the + terminal on the battery itself.
This allows the regulator to sense the actual charge voltage at the battery so it can adjust for any voltage drop that may be due to long cable runs or split diodes (in my case both), allowing for better charging.

I did as recommended and everything seemed fine.

A couple of weeks later I noticed that my alternator was not charging, my first thought was 'bother another bill...' but the morning after it was working fine!
Investigations have shown that if the shore power is connected the alternator does not produce an output, unless there has been drain on the batteries, in which case it does, but stops output after a while - presumably when the batteries are full.
I have come to the conclusion that due to the new "feedback" connection I have fitted, if the batteries are full and the shore power (smart)charger is on, the alternator is picking up the elevated voltage at the battery and turning off the charge voltage.

Firstly - is this something I need to worry about? There are lots of stories about having your engine running and the alternator disconnected, apparently it kills the alternator.

Secondly - even if this is safe for the alternator, it's a bit irritating as the engine hour clock runs from the alternator output, so if it decides to not produce a charge voltage the hour clock stops.

Currently the alternator sensor wire is connected to the domestic batteries.
The options I have come up with are as follows:

1. Disconnect the sensor wire and put it back as it was direct to the B+ terminal on the alternator.
2. Leave the sensor wire connected to the Domestic batteries and live with the alternator not running the clock on shore power.
3. Connect the sensor wire to the engine battery, but if I do this, when the engine battery is full the charge voltage to the domestic batteries will drop.
4. Connect the sensor wire to a currently unused (spare) output from the split charge diode, this will allow the regulator to adjust for voltage drop due to cable length and split charge diode, but it won't be able to tell any battery state.

Any suggestions on the best option (or any new ideas) most welcome.

Regards:
IcarusBop
 
Hello:

I have a Volvo Penta D2-55 engine with the standard (Valeo A13N234) 60A Alternator fitted.
I noticed the alternator has a short yellow wire coming out of the case which was connected directly to the B+ terminal on the alternator.
I did some research and found that it is for the regulator, the recommendation is you disconnect it from the B+ terminal and run a connection from it to the + terminal on the battery itself.
This allows the regulator to sense the actual charge voltage at the battery so it can adjust for any voltage drop that may be due to long cable runs or split diodes (in my case both), allowing for better charging.

I did as recommended and everything seemed fine.

A couple of weeks later I noticed that my alternator was not charging, my first thought was 'bother another bill...' but the morning after it was working fine!
Investigations have shown that if the shore power is connected the alternator does not produce an output, unless there has been drain on the batteries, in which case it does, but stops output after a while - presumably when the batteries are full.
I have come to the conclusion that due to the new "feedback" connection I have fitted, if the batteries are full and the shore power (smart)charger is on, the alternator is picking up the elevated voltage at the battery and turning off the charge voltage.

Firstly - is this something I need to worry about? There are lots of stories about having your engine running and the alternator disconnected, apparently it kills the alternator.

Secondly - even if this is safe for the alternator, it's a bit irritating as the engine hour clock runs from the alternator output, so if it decides to not produce a charge voltage the hour clock stops.

Currently the alternator sensor wire is connected to the domestic batteries.
The options I have come up with are as follows:

1. Disconnect the sensor wire and put it back as it was direct to the B+ terminal on the alternator.
2. Leave the sensor wire connected to the Domestic batteries and live with the alternator not running the clock on shore power.
3. Connect the sensor wire to the engine battery, but if I do this, when the engine battery is full the charge voltage to the domestic batteries will drop.
4. Connect the sensor wire to a currently unused (spare) output from the split charge diode, this will allow the regulator to adjust for voltage drop due to cable length and split charge diode, but it won't be able to tell any battery state.

Any suggestions on the best option (or any new ideas) most welcome.

Regards:
IcarusBop

On my previous boat the solar panel would play the same kind of trick on me. In my case the alternator not charging alarm would go off. You seem to have a good grasp of what is going on so I suspect ypu can answer your own questions!
Stu
 
Hello:

I have a Volvo Penta D2-55 engine with the standard (Valeo A13N234) 60A Alternator fitted.


Any suggestions on the best option (or any new ideas) most welcome.

Regards:
IcarusBop

I would try connecting it to the spare output from the diode splitter. It should boost the alternator output by an amount equal to the forward volts drop across the diodes at near zero current flow.

Not quite as good as proper battery sensing but should be a improvement on the original
 
I'm sure I'm missing something here. Why do you want to run the engine when the shore power is connected?
Allan

To warm the engine up before I go out anywhere, and for general maintenance reasons.
I don't leave it running for hours, but there are sometimes reasons to have it running whilst moored up.

IcarusBop
 
The engine hours clock would be better connected to the live when switched on connection on the ignition switch.
 
The engine hours clock would be better connected to the live when switched on connection on the ignition switch.

"People" dont like that because it will run all the while the ignition is on even if the engine is not running............ all those extra seconds add up I guess .... to a few extra minutes !

It looks as though VP have found a way of preventing all this extra time being recorded by the hour counter!
 
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