Stirling Alternator regulator update.

[Chris_Robb]

Just fitted the above, and it has transformed my charging. The unit is fitted with a NASA BM1 charge monitor.

Friday Night: over night with the fridge going flat out we consumed 47A/H. Start engine, and the 50 ah alternator charged at 40 amps (previously 10) and reduced to around 15 a until it went into float. (previously 3 a). So great success - and the NASA BM1 makes it so easy to see what your using and what you are putting back in (although it is only a guide).


So overall - a great addition (for those not on shore power!) /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[RCGrootveld]

Lucky you!
I'd mine removed! Nothing but problems, didn't reach nominal Amps (I use a Mastervolt BTM) and frequent failures / alerts.
Back to the normal alternator now and investigating poss. to install a high-power alternator with related 3-stage regulator (eg M'volt)

 

[Chris_Robb]

Hi - Rob - didn't quite follow you post - did you get rid of a Stirling - or another make? I didn't follow what your problems were either.

 

[steve_cronin]

Why...

do you need a Mastervolt "BTM" with a Sterling Alternator controller? The dedicated Sterling one is much more informative. Also i would think that the Sterling's initial charge voltage of 16.3 might throw the Mastervolt unit into all sorts of false alarm situations. I would think that the two just aren't compatible.

The Sterling "remote" monitors battery voltage AND temperature and those of the alternator too, If alternator temperature gets over 88C it disconnects the smart controller and reverts to standard control until the temperature drops. This happens fairly frequently in the early morning if we have dropped the domestic batteries low overnight and have used the windlass more than usual. However, I usually anticipate this and open the side cover of the engine bay which avoids the alt. temperature going outside of limits. I know that I have a hangover and/or have put to sea with indecent haste if I forget! I am currently trying to devise a method of introducing cool air to the alternator* without compromising the sound-proofing. It gets very hot in Greece and 42 in summer is not unusual.

Steve Cronin

* see later post on engine bay temperatures.

 

[catmandoo]

Re: Why...

I find when I switch on the Sterling alternator controller(Advanced digital alternator regulator ) I can get up to 60 amps initially and possibly more depending on the state of the 400 ampere hour battery bank.(This is well indicated on my Sterling Power management panel which monitors output voltage of two alternators ,battery voltage and amperhours on my main battery bank ) If starting with the controller switched on sometimes the high torque causes the belt to slip and squeal which stops when I switch it off .

This is due to the belt becoming slack after several days of engine operation due to the temperature variation from cold to hot and back again . Even with lock nuts on the alternator tension device there is a tendancy to creep under temperature . I have to watch the condition of the belt very carefully each day as I have previously had belts breaking.

 

[bluedragon]

Re: Why...

Having just fitted a Sterling unit, and having a small low HP engine, mine is never started with the unit ON. Why not just treat it as a battery charger that you switch-in after the standard alternator controller has dealt with the initial low state of charge? That's what I intend to do.

 

[catmandoo]

Re: Why...

Yes I do that some times too . Sterling however only suggests one could fit a switch implying that it was not really needed . However I decided to fit a switch after I had a few belts go "Twang" Hence if I forget to set it off at start up and subsequently hear a scream from the belt I can flick the switch to OFF .

I suppose when the alternator was fitted as an auxiliary such high torques were not envisaged . If they had a better pully and belt arrangement might have been engineered . I am however not "yet" inclined to change the arrangement