Sticking Perspex to Perspex

hightech

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Acetone is used a solvent for perspex and will weld pieces together. Hold the pieces together and run acetone into the joint with he end of a nail that has been dipped into the acetone,hold for a few moments and the joint will rapidly form. Take care to keep the acetone away from all othe surfaces as it will melt them and leave nasty marks, experiment on scrap first!

Hightech
 

LORDNELSON

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ICI Tensol Cement No: 70 (two component), used to give high strength joints for out door use, I do not know if it is still available; indoors a good result can be obtained with Araldite Rapid Epoxide.
 

VicS

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Chloroform, is the usual solvent for pespex.

For a more reliable joint make up some cement by dissolving some swarf produced, by drilling some holes in a piece of scrap perspex, in chloroform to make a thick 'gloop'. (A little chloroform will dissove a surprisingly large amount of perspex)

For the stongest glued joint use the two part 'Tensol' cement. That is probably too costly though if you only have a small job to do as is is not, as far as I am aware, available in small quantities.
 
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Acetone will work, chloroform is much better but hard to get hold of these days. The original ICI Tensol No 7 2-part glue (methyl methacrylate and benzoyl peroxide catalyst) was the best by far and is now available as Anglosol 700. Amari Plastics have places all over and do a 500cc pack for £22ish (6/5) wwwamariplastics.com . Good place to buy perspex too which is just as well since they now want a £30 minimum order.

It'll take me about 20 years to use this lot up so if you're not far from Christchurch you could use a drop of mine.

Geoff
 

pappaecho

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Under no circumstances use acetone - it will stress crack the plastic, which will suddenly look like it is 30 years old.
Use a proper adhesive for Arylics
 

doug748

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If you have a child at secondary school you may be able to cadge a little Tensol (they tend to use the single part variety). Failing that, a good, if rather unsightly. bond can be got with silicone sealant. Brian.
 

Piers

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Thanks for the info everyone. The first step I will take is to get the manufacturer to state exactly what the window material is. I have been told "verbally" it's perspex, but given we are talking of what I'd call potentially hard-core chemicals, I want the material type in writing before I use anything.

Again, thanks for the help.
 

BobGiles

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Hi Piers

Having been a perspex worker most of my life, i can tell you that acetone will stress the perspex causing craks to form. this will eventualy lead to the perspex brakeing. if i was you i would go to a sign makers with the windows in hand and ask them fix them for you. they will use number 70 or chloroform both of wich may be difficult for you to obtain. DO Not use super glue, the compound is to stressfull for PX
 

VicS

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Re: Sticking Glass to Plexi-Glass

That rules out chlorform,acetone and perspex cements. Araldite (epoxy) will work but both surfaces must be scrupulously clean and slightly abraded. Also the joint must be clamped firmly until set. I personlly have no time for the quick setting epoxies and always use the slow setting variety. Also better if you can warm the job but not essential.

The other option is a double sided adhesive tape, but I cannot make any specific recommendations. It will always be possble to redo it if and when necessary though.
 

peterb

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Re: Sticking Glass to Plexi-Glass

[ QUOTE ]
Have just had it confirmed that the windows are glass, and the catches are lumps of plexi-glass (plastic)

[/ QUOTE ]

Halfords sell an adhesive for attaching rear-view mirrors to car windscreens. Mine has lasted for years.
 
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