Stern Gland Oil reservoir

[kalanka]

I have a Sadler 34 with a stern gland seal which is supplied by oil from a small header tank above the engine. I believe that this counteracts the pressure of the water outside but it may have some lubricating function too.

I don't know what make of seal but it is a rather featureless brass cylinder about 70mm in diameter with a small spigot on its side for the oil hose.

The oil is consumed at a very low rate but now needs replenishing. Can anyone advise on what type of oil to use? Will normal engine oil suffice?

Thanks

 

[richardabeattie]

Sureley it's grease not oil and it does not flow by gravity but by pressure exerted by an occasional turn of the big thumbscrew?

 

[WindermereColvic]

I think the critical factor here will be the presence (or not) of the screw down plunger, I say this because when i opened my grease gun screw thing, i found it full of oil, and on closer inspection (with the aid of a strap wrench) solid grease. It turned out the age old grease had split into a solid and oil like substance. Could this be causing confusion in the OPs case?
Matt

 

[Kylora]

It sounds very like the device that used to be fitted to my Vega.

It should contain 2 lip seals and a white metal bearing to keep it central.

I used to use 2 stroke oil.

The outer seal on mine eventually started to leak oil very quickly ( not very friendly in a marina ) so I fitted a small cock so that I could turn off the oil and started using engine oil with the occassional injection of grease to slow down the leakage.

If you get an air bubble in the small bore pipe, it can be difficult to remove. I used to get it up to the connection on the resevoir then create a partial vacuum in the resevoir ( mouth over the fill opening and suck ).

Ash

 

[Robin]

There was a seal type made or sold by Halyard(sp?) Marine that had lip seals backed up by oil fed from a reservoir. These were very expensive and are no longer made although they were very effective I believe. I don't know what oil they used however.

Yes the grease in screw down greasers often looks oily, but they are a different animal.

 

[LeonF]

The glands with an oil reservoir are the Halyards, and the reservoir is usually an opaque white plastic through which one can easily see the oil level, not brass. There are two hoses off the reservoir, one leading to the gland and the other a return. It sounds like the other posters might be correct about it being a grease gland where the grease has split or liquified with the heat.

 

[Kylora]

I think that LeonR, the OP, and I are all talking about the same thing. The stern gland is brass, the resevoir is opaque.

Ash

 

[James_Calvert]

I use Hypoid oil - as recommended by the Sadler manual.

 

[jason -and the arguenauts]

You are OK with engine oil. Indeed, if it runs at all hot you might need to use fully synthetic.

Excellent system . Wish I still had one rather than the Volvo thingy.

And yes - the oil reservoir should be placed above the waterline. Precise distance depends on the depth of the seal below the water line and the relative desities of oil wand water. Personally I just stuck it a few inches above and it worked OK like that.

Replacement seals are available from industrial seal suppliers - Viton ones with a stainless steel spring. Doddle to replace.

 

[charles_reed]

Sounds as though it is a Bukh seal.

In both that and the very similar Halyard seal I had normal engine lubricating oil was recommended.

Neither lasted a terribly long time and I've been very satisfied with the PSS seal that has replaced them.

 

[Tranona]

Sounds as though it is a Bukh seal.

In both that and the very similar Halyard seal I had normal engine lubricating oil was recommended.

Neither lasted a terribly long time and I've been very satisfied with the PSS seal that has replaced them.

PSS is not a replacement as it is a completely different design concept - although fulfils the same function.

Similar designs (ie with radial lip seals) are Tides and Vetus, although these rely on water cooling and don't use oil, but grease in the same way as the lip seals in the Volvo.

 

[kalanka]

Thanks for the suggestions. It is definitely oil and not grease and in the translucent tank as mentioned. It is a very good seal!

 

[john_q]

Shaft Seal

Ambasador Marine aslo make a oil lubricated shaft seal called a sealmaster. It has 1 rubber pipe that goes to a reservoir (looks like a brake reservoir) they suggest normal engine oil.

The seal is a brass cylinder attached to a rubber bellows and has 2 lip seals.

Have used one for 30,000 miles and it does not leak

 

[pete]

Ambasador Marine aslo make a oil lubricated shaft seal called a sealmaster. It has 1 rubber pipe that goes to a reservoir (looks like a brake reservoir) they suggest normal engine oil.

The seal is a brass cylinder attached to a rubber bellows and has 2 lip seals.

Have used one for 30,000 miles and it does not leak

This sounds like the seal on my boat , already fitted when I purchased the boat in 2000.
Bronze body with a clear plastic header tank, the pipe goes in the unit at the bottom and there is a bleed screw opposite the inlet I bleed it every year and get a tiny bit of emulsified atf out then it runs clean. my instructions say use ATF. It is a brilliant bit of kit and as my boat is kept on a drying mooring it does not require burping every time as some do. Never a drop has passed it's lips.
pete

 

[LeonF]

I have a Sadler 34 with a stern gland seal which is supplied by oil from a small header tank above the engine. I believe that this counteracts the pressure of the water outside but it may have some lubricating function too.

I don't know what make of seal but it is a rather featureless brass cylinder about 70mm in diameter with a small spigot on its side for the oil hose.

The oil is consumed at a very low rate but now needs replenishing. Can anyone advise on what type of oil to use? Will normal engine oil suffice?

Thanks

Definitely do not use ATF if it is a Halyard. They specify ordinary engine oil. If you send me a private message I can try and scan the leaflet/manual and send it to a personal e-mail. The feed tubes go into a black bellows, not a brass cylinder.

 

[jason -and the arguenauts]

For the benefit of those who still use old fashioned messy and leaky stuffing boxes, I was interested to see when doing a tour of the engine room and shaft area on a large container ship that they used lip seals.

 

[rob2]

I have a similar seal supplied by Sole - does anyone know what make it is? It sounds like the one described above with the reservoir that looks like a brake/clutch reservoir. The cap says something like "don't forget the oil" ! The previous owner advised using ATF, which is what the content smells of. After four years, I haven't had to refill it yet!

Rob.

 

[Neil_Y]

And we are now also using lip seals on new boats in the UK like the port of London pilot boats and a new 65' motor boat just delivered from the factory.

From new they are lubricated with grease between the flanges (as there are two seals, one to keep the water out and the other tp keep the oil in) the oil then lubricates them until they polish the shaft to a fine finish which remains sealed for years. Any oil will work for the seals but bearings mat specify a particular thickness of oil as we do.

 

[Mal113]

The Brass or otherwise housing holds three lip seals, which should be marine standard i.e. with stainless steel springs to retain the lip. The forward end (nearest the engine) lip retains the oil within the housing, the inner seal (Stern end) is also fitted to retain the oil in the housing, while the outer stern end seal keeps out the water. Also within the housing is a white metal bearing that keeps the housing and hence seals in alignment with the shaft. The whole system is lubricated with oil and normal engine oil will be just fine, for those that say grease you must remember that oil is a far better lubricate than grease. Further if the oil shows signs of emulsifying that you have an early warning that the outer water seals is failing. If you need a suppler PM me and I will look for the company from where I purchased VITON seals earlier this year.

 

[LeonF]

The Brass or otherwise housing holds three lip seals, which should be marine standard i.e. with stainless steel springs to retain the lip. The forward end (nearest the engine) lip retains the oil within the housing, the inner seal (Stern end) is also fitted to retain the oil in the housing, while the outer stern end seal keeps out the water. Also within the housing is a white metal bearing that keeps the housing and hence seals in alignment with the shaft. The whole system is lubricated with oil and normal engine oil will be just fine, for those that say grease you must remember that oil is a far better lubricate than grease. Further if the oil shows signs of emulsifying that you have an early warning that the outer water seals is failing. If you need a suppler PM me and I will look for the company from where I purchased VITON seals earlier this year.

Can I ask those who are infinitely more technically minded than myself, what would be the best course of action, if any, should there be major damage to the bellows while under way ? For example if a cable gave way and got caught up and ripped it ? Would I be OK to sail myself out of trouble or is it mayday time ?