Stern Gland Fitting

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blackfish

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I am grateful to everyone who a few months ago debated the relative pros & cons of retro-fitting a stuffing box to replace my very leaky Deep Sea Seal - so I don't want to revisit that debate.

I'm ready to fit my brand new flexible stuffing box. Here's the issue: The amount of stern tube which protrudes into the boat is only about half an inch. There was also insufficient clearance around it for the relatively large gague rubber hose and jubilee clip. I've ground away sufficient of the resin / glass to allow me to get the rubber hose on the end of the tube, but I'm not altogether happy with the security of just one hose clip so near to the end of the hose.

Has anybody got some lateral-thinking suggestions as to a suitable remedy please?
 
A friend had a similar problem and he gave himself the "security" feeling by glaasing a couple of L shaped brackets to the hull so that the other end rested on the jubilee clip and hose then used Amalgamating tape wrapped round the rubber and the bracket. The tape sticks to itself, is waterproof, very flexible and very tough. Still going strong!
 
Has anybody got some lateral-thinking suggestions as to a suitable remedy please?
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WHat was there before at this location????? Is the tube internally threaded???? if so get a machine shop to turn up an adaptor to extend the tube.
 
I would have a short tube machined that would fit tighlty over the protruding stern tube fixed in place with two grub screws .The tube would be set in thickened epoxy and when it went slightly off the grub screws could be tightened.It would be a good idea to drill indentations to locate the grub screws positively.
 
What was there before was a Marine Craft Deep Sea Seal held on by one jubilee clip! My problem is that the new hose on the stuffing box is a much thicker gague rubber, so there's not enough lateral room to fit it. I'm paring away fibreglass and resin with a small grinder to get a bit more room, but I'm a bit wary of taking too much away in case I see daylight!

No the tube's not threaded unfortunately, it's a straight (bronze?) tube epoxied in.

Thanks for the replies so far.
 
I had a similar problem

Problem Flange


So I had a new sleeve made up to slide over the existing flange

Here it is

And here it is in position (but not bolted up as I degreased, cleaned and painted the bilge before fixing)

Flange in position

Cost about £60

It works really well,. If you want info on who made it up let me know
 
Mmmmm. Not sure that fixing it with sticky gunk would be secure enough.. I guess fibreglassing it in would be OK but then it would be a pain in the parts if you ever needed to remove it.

How about a sleeve bracket (something like a metal condom)that slipped over the new stern tube bracket with wings that you could screw/bolt to the hull. Just an idea.. but dont know if its practical for your boat ! /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Thanks to all for your replies. A chap at the club has suggested using a thinner gauge rubber tube. The one I've been trying to put on has an internal diameter of 1 3/4 inches (45mm) and is 10 mm thick. Standard radiator-type hose (which would undoubtedly be easier to secure) is half that at 5mm wall thickness. Would that be up to the job do you think?
 
Whatever you do, use the proper hose, it resists everything - diesel, oil, etc. Radiator hose is not up to it.

It may come in different wall thickness.
 
[ QUOTE ]

WHat was there before at this location????? Is the tube internally threaded???? if so get a machine shop to turn up an adaptor to extend the tube.

[/ QUOTE ]

Borrow a BSP pipe tap and thread it internally, then you can get an extension tube made by a machine shop.

Alternatively, is there enough clearance between the tube and the propshaft to fit a sleeve inside the sterntube? If there is clearance you could use epoxy to bond an extension tube(of the same size as the sterntube) on with a sleeve inside both providing a strong lapjoint. For corrosion resistance the sleeve and extension should be bronze also. If bronze tubing is unobtanium, then GRP tubing could be substituted.

If internal clearance makes this a nonstarter, an external sleeve could be used.
 
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