Sterling regulator

[30boat]

I have a Sterling 4 step alternator regulator that I'd like to fit now that the boat is on the hard.My present system has a 1,2 and both rotary switch that the instructions say is not well suited for this regulator.
I was thinking of fitting a diode splitter or heavy duty relays.I heard of relays failing but it was apparently due to not being rated highly enough.
Can someone please advise me on how to do this easily?Wire the thing in I mean.
Electrics are not my forte although I'm not completely hopeless.
I'll be getting unsealed batteries as per instructions.
Thanks.

 

[steve_cronin]

The purpose of the switch is most likely to be to distribute the power from one battery, the other battery or both to the domestic system, not necessarily to direct the charge from the alternator. You probably have a diode splitter as well. However if there is a notice warning "Do not run the engine without at least one battery connected" then it controls the direction of charging also by simply switching batt. one, batt. two or both into circuit. In this case you need to identify the charging lead(s) from the alternator and split them to each battery's positive by the use of either a diode array or a voltage sensitive relay. Mr sterling prefers the former although it's critics decry it on the grounds of a voltage drop of around 1VDC. With the Sterling controller, this is of no consequence as it detects battery voltage after the splitter and regulates the alternator output accordingly. Sterlings even sell a new-tech diode array with a very low loss if this troubles you. Personally I havn't bothered as the Sterling Pro controller runs our system in the Med. where the fridge demands are heavy. We have the remote readout box too and this shows battery voltage & temperature, alt. voltage & temperature, how long (in mins.) to full charge and will also regulate the solar panels but we have a seperate controller for those.

I personally don't like VSRs as there can be problems with our type of set-up if running the 1500watt anchor windlass first thing in the morning after a couple of nights with a heavy draw. Besides, the system works fine and we always have ice for the G&Ts.

Steve Cronin

 

[howardclark]

Your one/two both switch is for power OUT of the batteries. Providing it is never switched to off with the engine running it can be left alone.
You need to decide about power INTO your batteries. The standard way is to use a diode splitter. As the other gent says although this causes a voltage loss your sterling alternator will correct for this.
You lead the wire from the alternator to the input on the splitter and then the outputs from the splitter to the batteries, one output per bank of batteries. Make sure the wires are heavy enough for the current and that the terminals are properly made.
I believe the sterling regulator has one wire to go directly to a battery too (like my Adverc system). This should go to the bank you use for domestics or either if you share the work. Again better not to wire it to the switch in case it is turned off. This wire lets the system know the actual voltage at the battery and adjusts the ouptput for best performance.

 

[Cantata]

Just to add to the good advice you've already had.......you may find it tricky to buy small quantities of the cable you need (at least the same Amp value as the alternator rating) to take the charge from the alternator to the splitter, and on to the batteries. Best place to go is to a small car electrical workshop (NOT the local Lucas dealership, in my experience!!), if you explain what you are doing they will probably be very helpful and sell you just the amount you need for a very few quid.

 

[Rowana]

And while you are about it, get them to crimp on the correct terminals to the cable ends. You won't have the right gear - they will.

DIY crimpers are no good at these current ratings.

 

[steve_cronin]

Index Marine sell suitable cable.

Steve Cronin

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
And while you are about it, get them to crimp on the correct terminals to the cable ends. You won't have the right gear - they will.

DIY crimpers are no good at these current ratings.

[/ QUOTE ]How can you make such a statement - you have not seen my "crimpers" /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
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[boatmike]

Actually there is no reason why the battery switch should be a problem. Just check the wiring. Assuming the common terminal is either directly or indirectly attached to the charge wire from the alternator (which it should be) the appropriate connections are as follows (assuming stirling have not changed their colour coding)
Yellow wire to the ignition switch or somewhere like the oil pressure gauge sender that gets power when the engine is running
Red directly to the common terminal of your rotary switch
Brown to the teminal on the alternator marked D+
Black to the negative terminal on the alternator case probably marked B-
Green to the field windings of the alternator.
This last connection requires that you dissassemble the alternator and solder the connection to the internal terminal. If you are not sure about this take the generator to an electrician to do it for you. It isnt difficult though if you know how to do it.
hope this helps

 

[cruachan]

have just fitted one of these and agree with all above - put through diode splitter and works perfectly - finding a local auto electrician was invaluable - especially as he services the local trawler fleet - he made up the necessary cables, cripmped and soldered the ends on (having checked on the right sizes etc) for the cost of the component parts
The rest was very straight forward with the extensive instructions given

 

[roger]

Lots of good advice in other posts. I have this system (older version) and it works well. I have individual isolating switches for each battery but run the charging leads direct to the battery terminals to avoid the risk that I might stupidly switch off the batteries and thus destroy the alternator etc. This gives another theoretical risk that those charging leads might get shorted and cause a fire. Ithink this is a low probability risk.
The Sterling regulator may require you to strip down the alternator to fit a wire inside it. Its not difficult but will probably invalidate the alternator guarantee.

 

[scarlett]

Don't make the misakes I made. One of them was I didn't realise I had to change both batteries not just the one the regulator is attached to. I may have boiled the low maintainance starter battery over last season. Also the wiring diagram on the instuctions I got showed one wire where there should have been two etc. Read them very thoughly so you know exactly what you are doing.