Steel Decks - needs fairing/levelling - ex teak deck

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AuckBlues

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Hi
My steel cruiser's teak decks have finally surrendered to the elements. I am restoring to original 4mm steel decks - (decision to go to steel was simply financial after looking at the replacement teak cost). Teak and ply base is up and I am in the process of grinding steel and applying anti-rust primer. Teak was laid 20 odd yrs ago (so lasted pretty well). Problem I have upon seeing decks is there are alot of undulations that just with the primer on sticks out like old dogs b...s
I know fairing has its issues, and also its place. Can anyone in boating cyberspace offer some advice on a mastic type product that would accept the Interlux interdeck paint system (advised by main contractor that mastic rather than a epoxy based product would allow for "movement" of steel under hot weather conditions)
Regards Auckland Blues fan.
P.S. Vessel is lying in France so products available in UK or France OK.
 
Some folks in the past have faired steel with cement, others use an epoxy based product, and a sanding board. I personally would just leave it, grind the welds flat and paint it, it is after all a steel boat.
 
We have been working on a steel boat restoration helping owner and recommending products.

The product we used for fairing was a Hempel two part underwater filler. The two parts are different colours and change colour on mixing to a light green. Excellent adhesion to steel and much cheaper than equivalent inter*l.

Deck was ply, redone in pre-primed steel, ground areas flat as necessary, primed, faired and a new permateek deck is going down very soon (still painting topsides). Permateek will stop the steel deck rusting and will expand and contract with steel so a win win.
 
Last edited:
grit blast

1. Grit blast to white metal

2. Remove finger prints and or grease

3. Paint with zinc rich epoxy base coat (s)

4. Level with preferred filler

5. Add non skid of preferred type

6. S a i l
 
ianabc said:
1. Grit blast to white metal

2. Remove finger prints and or grease

3. Paint with zinc rich epoxy base coat (s)

4. Level with preferred filler

5. Add non skid of preferred type

6. S a i l
Click to expand...

Yes, this is what the OP is doing.

He asked what the "preferred filler" would be, not for a summary of the whole process.

Pete
 
we have an epoxy coating with a 'chicken peck' added which gives a great nonslip surface and can be used for fairing too. The chicken peck is like a well graded fine gravel which was on the boat when we bought her in Holland.
 
Thanks for replies.. not the specific info i was after on a filler/fairing type product. I have looked at the Hempel web site and requested further info. Also the Sika product range may have a "filler" type epoxy in their range. If anyone interested I will post the product I end up using. If anyone has any further advise..please feel free.

Go the All Blacks
 
We have a steel boat boat and had our teak deck removed in Trinidad. Im not sure what the type of filler was but they added microballoons to it. In all they must have laid five or six coats of filler with sanding after each coat. The last two coats had no microballoons. The finish was fantastic.
 
Hempel Profiller

I believe the Hempel Filler quoted earlier is the following one:

http://www.hempel.com/internet/HEMPELComcopy3006.nsf/vALLBYDOCID2/5E0077DA3EA8CEE5C12571C300422C11/$file/PDS_35370.pdf

I have used it extensively on my boat to fill and fair the decks (GRP) after removing the old teak prior to painting. It is very easy to mix, sticks to anything it is applied to and is very easy to sand after the recommended curing time.
 
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