steel deck fairing

[soda1]

for whatever reasons.. i have a steel deck with undulations in places. In general terms, I propose to shotblast these , small and large (I have a small but able shotblasting plant) and fair the deck before I give it final coats of paint and glue Treadmaster.

However, I am at a loss as to the details of the procedure. I've done a lot of research on the subject and various companies seem to have their own technique. I'm looking for the best which, at the same time, will not burn a hole in my pocket!

In the not so distant past most people would suggest shot-blasting/cleaning undulations followed by a two pack Zinc Phosphate primer followed by fairing compound followed by final coats of paint over entire deck before glueing on the Treadmaster.

West system, however, seem to suggest that, after shot-blasting/cleaning, a coat of epoxy should be applied directly to steel followed by fairing compound etc.

And yet again, a very reputable company manufacturing paints in the South-West have their own system of blast primers (Armourguard S I think they refer to it) before fairing compound is applied.

Anyone out there who has any strong opinions/proven experience on this matter who would be prepared to advise would be greatly appreciated

 

[ianabc]

steel deck

(1) remove all paint, glue, etc. with rubber backed disk, or grinder with 40 grit flaps installed in place of cutting disc. Requires backing plate on grinder to match the 40 grit flap sanding disc.

(2) Now with clean deck blast of ( not using sand which is illegal in most jurisdictions for health reasons, silica dust is very toxic to the lungs ) use black slag, probably 80 grit, which is made from residue from smelting copper.

(3) After grit blasting to white metal if possible, paint with 80 percent or more zinc paint

(4) More zinc

(5) Epoxy paint

(6)More epoxy paint

(7) Fair using thickened epoxy and microballons ( easy to sand)

(8) Let set and repeat fairing filling etc

(9) Apply for loan from bank for Treadmaster

(10) Refuse to use Treadmaster glue and either use thickened epoxy (sheets of Treadmaster slide in wet epoxy ) or builders merchants polyurethane in large tubes with large glue gun, 100 percent waterproof and less expensive with no sliding.

(11) Admire

 

[Grajan]

Blast steel to achieve a profile to the steel, use a single manufacturers products throughout otherwise you have no comeback, apply a two pack blast primer, epoxy coating or manufacturers suggested scheme prior to applying filler and be very aware of temperature, air, especially substrate, and of course humidity.
possibly the biggest problem is that you are patch repairing and problems are liable to appear at interface of old and new products.

 

[Grajan]

Blast steel to achieve a profile to the steel, use a single manufacturers products throughout apply a blast primer, epoxy coating or manufacturers suggested scheme prior to applying filler and be very aware of temperature, air, especially substrate, and of course humidity.
possibly the biggest problem is that you are patch repairing and problems are liable to appear at interface of old and new products

 

[dolphin]

i can share my experience of what i have tested on my steel boat.
the boat is almost 40 years old and have had a lot of rusty spots and specially ones in the cockpit. previously, i have worked a lot on the maintenance but without good result!
what i have done:
(1) clean the spot surface with hammer, grinder, sand grid or clean as much as i can !
(2) epoxy resin 3-4 coats with slight sanding between each coats
(3) 2-3 coats two component epoxy primer with sanding between coats
(4) 2-3 coats two component white epoxy paint with sanding between coats
the result, after 2.5 year in sunny greece, is that the cockpit look very nice and no signs of rust!

 

[PCUK]

I used West System on various rust patches. Still all OK.

 

[soda1]

thank you all for ideas, particularly ianabc. By the way, ianabc, if you think Treadmaster needs a bank loan then try the price of the Vetus variety. Same material (just different pattern) but, amazingly, twice the price of Treadmaster. (there used to be a time when Vetus products were aimed for the budget-minded sailor. no longer the case, unfortunately!)

 

[Bobobolinsky]

i can share my experience of what i have tested on my steel boat.
the boat is almost 40 years old and have had a lot of rusty spots and specially ones in the cockpit. previously, i have worked a lot on the maintenance but without good result!
what i have done:
(1) clean the spot surface with hammer, grinder, sand grid or clean as much as i can !
(2) epoxy resin 3-4 coats with slight sanding between each coats
(3) 2-3 coats two component epoxy primer with sanding between coats
(4) 2-3 coats two component white epoxy paint with sanding between coats
the result, after 2.5 year in sunny greece, is that the cockpit look very nice and no signs of rust!

In a sunny clime, the epoxy gloss is eventually going to dust. Needs 2K to be UV proof

 

[KellysEye]

Agree with ianabc, he's spot on particularly with the coats of zinc rich epoxy on the bare metal, plus the thick epoxy and microballons. Ordinary epoxy won't protect the steel.

When Treadmaster wears it gets sharp and is a nightmare on bare feet. We used fine sand in the epoxy paint to give grip and had strips across the deck with no sand to make it look pretty.