Steaming timber

EASLOOP

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Does anybody have a view on using wallpaper stripper steam makers as a source of steam for bending oak frames ? If so it would be good considering the heater unit has a sight glass for water level and a nice tight outlet hose to connect to a poly pipe or ?
Also, I want to bend 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 18" oak to replace/sister some cracked frames. Will 18" be too short (keep it clean!) or will I be able to bend through a tight radius into the bilge of my wooden East Anglian.
As always, looking forward to your help and advice.
Have a really brilliant day
John
 

boatmike

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I hate to be a killjoy but I don't think you will find it easy to steam oak. It is possible of course but you need a lot more steam than you get from a wallpaper stripper I think you will find. The alternative would be to laminate several thinner strips around a former using a good quality epoxy. Very often resorted to as a modern alternative and actually stronger if done well....
 

dur

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I have used a wallpaper stripper - one of those round white plastic jobbies with the black top ex Homebase - for steaming small oak timbers for a 15' dinghy and for larger section iroko rubbing strakes etc biggest being about 30 x 40 mm in section - bending in the long direction.

I made a steam box out of 6 mm plywood with 20 mm square batten at the corners to give the ply something to land on. The box is about 15 cm square and 3.0 m long. The ends are capped with ply plates. One is fixed with a hole in it for the end of the steam wand - just jams in. The other is removable for loading the timber. Remember to fix some small chocks in the box so the timber is lifted off the base to allow circulation of the steam. I lag the box with bubble poly and a tarpauline and I reckon the lagging is pretty important. Alos put decent pipe lagging on the hose from staemer to box. (Sorry if you know all this)

It works really well. There is loads of steam which comes out at good pressure from a small hole in the far end of the box.

With the bigger timber which takes longer to cook, I keep an eye on the level in the steamer (you can see thro' the white plastic) and boil up a kettle when its getting low. You can turn the power off for a few minutes to top up without any problem.

My guess is that you will need lengths that are quite a lot longer to bend
satisfactorily. I would be tempted to make a simple jig and bend it on that. I have heard of it being done in situ with a polythene "bag" used as a steam box. This allows the timber to be bent gradually into position while the steam is still on it. Thick Gloves!

However there will be those out there with much more experience of all of this than me...
 

rodfish

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I am not sure about the wallpaper steamer, but i have bent oak frames using the following.
1/ Get some steel pipe 3/4 inch dia and whatever lenght you need to drop timber in welded a blank on 1 end so it is water tight leave the other end open.
2/ You need a form of heat i use a gas ring the type roofers use to melt tar
3/ A propane bottle and a metal tripod to rest pipe in at an angle that suits.
Fill pipe with water and place timber in allow to boil for 15/30 mins or until you are able to bend in place. If you drill hole you can pull the frame out with wire.
 

john_morris_uk

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You can use a wallpaper steamer but steaming ok isn´t always as simple as it seems. Lots of lagging to keep the steam in the right place and not just condensing in the pipe or steam box that your build.

From memory, the oak needs to be green to steam successfuly. Old seasoned oak doesn´t steam nearly as easily as green stuff.

Laminating a rib with epoxy is so easy and makes such a strong job, why don´t you consider doing that instead? Make a former of the right curve on the bench and rip a few thinnish strips to glue together. Use some polythene to ensure things don´t stick in the wrong place and Bob will be your mother´s brother....
 

tillergirl

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Done it with a wallpaper steamer. Its the only way to generate the amout of steam needed. May need to top up the water. I used the steamer with a pipe as described above and steam 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" with no problem. Be patient though.

Go much longer than 18". You should sister the whole length to avoid hard spots. The original frames were steamed in! Oak will go quite floppy when ready but will still be resistent initially to bending. Don't be afraid of it but work quickly (gloves, gloves), have the steamer close to the fitting site and don't worry that the oak gets discoloured and ugly when damp. Be prepared to snap a few - although you might not, but get as timber thats as clear as possible (knot free) and have some spares ready. I radius the edges to remove stress.
 

Egbod

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The TEP sell just what you are proposing to use- a small steam tube with a wallpaper steamer. See http://www.tep.org.uk/Frames/_f_search.html
If you order one make sure they supply the adapter you need as well.
I think the piece of large tubing / steam chest it is long enough for your needs but do check first. I have used one to steam beech. The wood only needs to be hot so if you can fit it into a micrwave oven that might be quicker and easier.
 

cliff

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[ QUOTE ]
Does anybody have a view on using wallpaper stripper steam makers as a source of steam for bending oak frames ? If so it would be good considering the heater unit has a sight glass for water level and a nice tight outlet hose to connect to a poly pipe or ?
Also, I want to bend 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 18" oak to replace/sister some cracked frames. Will 18" be too short (keep it clean!) or will I be able to bend through a tight radius into the bilge of my wooden East Anglian.
As always, looking forward to your help and advice.
Have a really brilliant day
John

[/ QUOTE ]Forget trying to steam bend that thickness - it is more trouble than it is worth. Go for laminating the piece. I use 1/8" (3mm) strips and before forming I steam them or leave them floating in a hot bath for ½ an hour then bend the hot, wet wood round a suitable former, clamp in place and allow to dry for a couple of days. Once dry I remove the pieces, epoxy the mating surfaces and put the lot back in the former for 24 hours. This is preferable to cold bending and gives an immensely strong piece of timber and the question of using quarter sawn timber is void - no need - planked timber will do.
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