starting a Yanmar 1gm10 after being laid up 18 months

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DerekM

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30 Jul 2007
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Carnoustie, Angus, Scotland
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Help! I'm due to be craned in this weekend, but my engine is not starting. I've bled everything the handbook says I might need to and appear to be getting fuel to the injector. I have plenty of compression, but it will not fire. Running perfectly when last used, but could the diesel which has lain in the tank since she came out 18 months ago have deteriorated to the point where it won't ignite? Any thoughts? I'm comfortable with sails, but engines are a closed book to me.
 
Might sound silly, but make sure there's no tape over the air filter... I, ahum, found this out after buying a boat that had been laid up by the professionals /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
Check to make sure that the engine stop cable is actually operating.........
If you haven't got much fuel in the tank it might be worth replacing it with fresh. Check the water trap because you might have some condensation, empty it if necessary.
Re-bleed right through.
I would also suggest turning the motor over a few times with the decompressor open and the engine stop pulled, this ensures oil is pumped around prior to starting.
What throttle position are you using? I usually find with my 2GM20 that I need full throttle to get her going when she's been sat for a while.

Good luck.
 
Make sure you don't flood the exhaust trying to start it.
I would spin it over seacock shut, decompressed, full throttle for a few 30 second bursts.
Then throttle off and spin over again with decompression just in case you get so much diesel in the cylinder it will hydraulic lock.
Then start on full throttle, knock the throttle off before it races, as soon as it fires basically. Open seacock as well!
Make sure you have a good, well charged battery, it makes a difference, an extra 100rpm will get it going.
Do check the air filter etc!
If the above does not work, crack the injector union and check diesel comes out when you crank. If not bleed system.
 
no - the fuel will still work OK.

if the engine wont start, then you are short of one of air/ fuel /compression / speed of turnover. There is nothing else with a diesel.

compression could be sticky valve gear or have you knocked the decompression lever? fuel could be blocked injector / air in system/ fuel injection rack, even just not opening the throttle fully. lack of air is unlikely buut need checking. speed of turnover - borrow an extra battery and parallel them.
 
Assuming that you have clean and water free fuel going into the cylinder; move the decompression lever to Open, turn the engine over a few times( say 10 times) close the decompression lever and should start. Also, Make sure the Stop lever is not stuck into the open position; sometimes a bit WD40 spray (or a very small amount of Easy Start) into the air intake helps to start the engine.
 
Not WD 40.....It'll wash oil off the cylinder wall.

I strongly suggest you make sure that the stop lever on the engine is free and that there is no air or water in the fuel supply. The stop lever seized on mine after just three months and the knob on the dash still moved in and out. Liberal amounts of Penetrating Oil (3 in one penetrating oil is available in Halfords) and elbow grease will get it moving if it is and Teflon grease will work itself into the mechanism in due course if applied immediately afterwards. Check the gear selector lever at the same time.

I don't think you'd get much compression if the inlet was sealed, but I always put an oil soaked rag in mine over winter and I wouldn't want it to be ingested in the cylinder.
 
some 1gm and 1gm10 engines wont start very easily with full throttle, are you getting exhaust smoke puffing out the back when trying ?
Lastly use a hairdryer, soldering iron or paint stripping gun on the air intake(remove cover and filter) try to start when the heaters are running.



Steve
 
I had a similar problem a few year's ago.

It was found that the valve gear in the rocker box had acquired a light coating of rust during the lay up.

Also, when the engine last stopped , it had not been wound over to close the valves so the cylinder was open to air. This of course only applies more to a single cylinder engine which are always harder to start.

Lots of WD40 and turning over the engine with the compression lever off eventually did the trick. Plus, as mentioned, lots of heat. I heated the cabin and engine bay area with a fan heater and got the air really hot !

Best of luck.
 
We started our Yanmar 2QM20, that had been stored in a warm dry place for 15 years!

We learned:

(1) Read the manual

(2) Locate ALL fuel bleed screws (we painted ours yellow)

(3) Bleed well

(4) We were told to install an oil pressure gauge before first start.

(5) Be prepared to shut down immediatly if oil pressure is low or anything unexpected happens.....


Best of luck...


(We have over 70 pouinds of oil pressure which made for a good day!)
 
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