Starting a new engine

[zoidberg]

A question for those experienced engine installers.

When looking to prepare and start a new engine for the first time, what tips and tricks can you share? e.g. how d'you ensure there's cooling water from the start/the raw water pump is primed..... get some oil up to the cylinder walls before cold cranking....

Checklist before first attempted start......? What d'you check after start...?

The boat - and the engine - is 100 miles inland from its mooring, in a cradle, under a tarp and a tree.

 

[Tranona]

Run a supply of water to the stainer - I have a bucket with a hose running out of the bottom and a ball valve to control, bleed the fuel lines, turn the engine over with the manual shut off valve closed if you can, then go through the start routine. It will take a little while for water to come out of the exhaust. Don't run it more than a couple of minutes. If it runs OK and pumps water, it will work when you get it in the water.

 

[lw395]

The raw water is less crucial than the oil, but you could fill the heat exchanger perhaps?
The engine is not going to overheat until well after the circuit coolant has warmed up.
You night want to crank it a bit with the fuel shut off and decompressors pulled, to get oil through the filter and around the motor.
I don't like to do this excessively with a diesel as either fuel will get into the bores or the injector pump is at risk of running dry if it's not bled.

All you can really check is that it starts easily and pumps raw water. It won't warm up without being loaded.
You can check the alternator charges.
You can check for leaks.

 

[macd]

When looking to...start a new engine for the first time.

This probably isn't the first time it's been run. Beta and no doubt others run the engine to test it after assembly with all the marinisation bits. I appreciate the need to check the new installation, but as far as the engine itself is concerned, it's just been awakened from a lay-up.

Otherwise, as Tranona writes. Whatever you do, don't feed the hose direct (i.e under mains pressure) to the engine's plumbing, which would carry a serious risk of back-filling the engine.

 

[RichardS]

I've started many car engines after a rebuild and, at first, I just don't worry about cooling as the first objective is to get the engine to start. Be ready to stop it (know where the emergency fuel shut off is) after 10 seconds and you don't any cooling at all.

Oil is much more important which means making sure that everything is well covered with oil during re-assembly and that you run the engine on the starter for few seconds before you allow the fuel to flow. If you have an oil pressure gauge you should see the oil pressure start to build but without a gauge I would do a 10 second burst, then wait for 10 seconds, then another 10 second burst. The oil should be circulating by then.

Assuming that you have bled the fuel lines, then go for the 10 second run without water. If it starts and runs for 10 seconds then stop it and start on the cooling system and when your're sure that's primed as much as it can be, then go for the first long burn.

Richard

 

[zoidberg]

Thanks, chasps, for those pearls.

The heat exchanger has been full of antifrrrreezy for some time. I need to ensure there's enough of the right flavours of oils in the right places, and to 'prime the raw water system as much as poss', for I don't want to damage the impeller. There are, regrettably, no decompressors ( unlike the old Kubota tractor unit this replaces ) but I shall have over 1600-ish of them thar CCAs in the shape of two of my Optima Red Tops. That ought to suffice....

I'm trying to check and double-check there's nothing I should have considered/resolved, by asking here. Where else...?

 

[PaulRainbow]

This probably isn't the first time it's been run. Beta and no doubt others run the engine to test it after assembly with all the marinisation bits. I appreciate the need to check the new installation, but as far as the engine itself is concerned, it's just been awakened from a lay-up.

Otherwise, as Tranona writes. Whatever you do, don't feed the hose direct (i.e under mains pressure) to the engine's plumbing, which would carry a serious risk of back-filling the engine.

Absolutely right !

Why worry too much about the raw water, does one worry to much after a Winter layup ? Does one hell. Start the engine and look at the exhaust, if there's no water after a couple of mins, turn it off.

Oil ? How does anyone think we deal with oil and filter changes ? We fill 'em up, fit new filters and fire 'em up. Ok, with used engines there will be residual oil in the engine and on all of the moving bits, but it won't be any different with the new engine. Beta didn't just throw it together and stick it on a pallet.

If it was me, i'd fill it with oil, don't bleed it and crank it over. If it doesn't start after half a minute or so, bleed it and start it. Check the water is coming out of the exhaust.

 

[VicS]

Thanks, chasps, for those pearls.

The heat exchanger has been full of antifrrrreezy for some time. I need to ensure there's enough of the right flavours of oils in the right places, and to 'prime the raw water system as much as poss', for I don't want to damage the impeller. There are, regrettably, no decompressors ( unlike the old Kubota tractor unit this replaces ) but I shall have over 1600-ish of them thar CCAs in the shape of two of my Optima Red Tops. That ought to suffice....

I'm trying to check and double-check there's nothing I should have considered/resolved, by asking here. Where else...?

Not only the impeller but you dont want to run it for long with no raw water flow or you will burn up the exhaust system which could prove to be a more expensive thing to do than damaging the pump impeller

 

[sarabande]

I'd ignore the maker's recommendation for a running in period, and change the oil and filter after an hour's running. I know it may cost a few quid, but there are bound to be tight spots on mating surfaces and rough edges on e.g. piston rings which get rubbed off in that first 60 minutes. Your engine will love you for it !

A lot of oil manufacturers and engine makers swear by running in oil, and not just for rebuilt engines but brand new ones as well.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=running+in+oil&t=ffab&atb=v69-7&ia=web.

Seems to me like a decent small investment to protect a much bigger one.