Standing rigging replacement about to start

[Travelling Westerly]

Im about to have all the standing rigging replaced on our boat by riggers. I noticed there are 2 diffrent types of wire terminals available, swaged and swageless. What are the pros and cons, what type would you use? Intention is to cruise the boat Med first then further afield later if that helps in making a desision on what type to go with and Im very DIY focused.

This is the first time Ive had standing rigging replaced, mast down etc. Any thoughts/advice on jobs I should undertake whilst getting this job done? Ive got new mast head led lights to go on already and will replace all electric cables so thats covered. Do you replace all bottle screws as well?

Cheers

 

[Baddox]

Swaged fittings are crushed permanently onto the wire, swageless can be removed and replaced with only a cheap and simple cone needed to be fitted inside the fitting. So, the swageless are reusable which could save a little cash during the next refit. Also, if you have a roller furler you may need the bare wire without an end fitting to slide inside the foil. Once the forestay wire is inside the foil you can terminate the wire with a swageless fitting.
I’d check the spreaders, wiring and any sheaves whilst the mast is down. Or leave it stepped like we did when replacing the rigging.
Look out for anyone selling a tension gauge on here, it will help if you tune your rigging.
All simple jobs really and worth learning to do to boost your independence.

 

[William_H]

My impression is that it is the wire itself that deteriorates with age. Most other parts of the load circuit are rated much higher than the wire. So maybe consider replacing wire only. Turnscrews etc should be fine long term. Although I did have a toggle end (bottom) of turn screw let go from fatigue. It had been bent at one stage (in mast raising)
I replaced turnscrews after 35 years but wire several times in that period. It does seem to me that cap shrouds and intermediate shrouds are the critical ones. My forestay is paralleled by the jib and halyard and fractuinal rig does not need back stay.
I have never used the replaceable swages always the crushed by rigger types. I don't think replaceable are commonly available here.
ol'will

 

[PetiteFleur]

I replaced all my rigging screws - on inspection some were in poor condition with distorted threads.

 

[Graham376]

I had prices for supply only, with top swages in both cases but option of swaged or swageless at deck level. Swageless were far more expensive than swaged.

 

[LadyInBed]

I've no idea of the technical advantages of either, but from a diy perspective I bought wires twice the length required with swaged ends, then cut them in half and fitted swageless turnbuckles at the deck end.
The advantage of Swageless turnbuckles are that they can be reused, just replace the cones.