Stanchion broken but cannot get it off gaurd rail without cutting the rail - ideas?

My guardwires have a swaged-on eyelet to allow the front end to be shackled to the pulpit, the other end having a threaded stud swaged on, which will pass through the stanchions and then have a larger eyelet screwed on, which can be lashed to the ring on the pushpit, allowing rapid lowering of the wires in order to facilitate MOB recovery.
I thought this arrangement was standard.
 
My guardwires have a swaged-on eyelet to allow the front end to be shackled to the pulpit, the other end having a threaded stud swaged on, which will pass through the stanchions and then have a larger eyelet screwed on, which can be lashed to the ring on the pushpit, allowing rapid lowering of the wires in order to facilitate MOB recovery.
I thought this arrangement was standard.
Sort of. Except a swaged fork might be more often seen on the front end?
 
My guardwires have a swaged-on eyelet to allow the front end to be shackled to the pulpit, the other end having a threaded stud swaged on, which will pass through the stanchions and then have a larger eyelet screwed on, which can be lashed to the ring on the pushpit, allowing rapid lowering of the wires in order to facilitate MOB recovery.
I thought this arrangement was standard.
Preferable but not standard.

When I bought my boat she had a Talurit swaged eye at each end of the wire. I replaced them with the arrangement you describe above except that, as JM describes, she had a swaged fork forward.
 
Surprised at some of the bodges proposed on an obviously old wire. A new 10m guardrail from gs products with proper end fittings is £33 so why mess about.
My ocd would require me to change the others too but if you are considering these bodges then I guess you will escape that.
An obvious lash up would be condemned by a surveyor on resale so you'll pay for a new one eventually anyway. Why not get the benefit yourself.
 
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