Stainless frozen in ally

[cagey]

Know this has been kicked around in the past, but wondered if any new thinking.
s/s Stanchions in ally bases with s/s bolts, installed about 5 years ago, plastic sleeves and white anti corrosion paste job done properly but a fat dik head pulled themselves on board using stanchions and sheared countersunk s/s screw head so no purchase to release retaining bolt.
How to release bolts, have tried all the methods I know, has anyone got any new ideas.

 

[DinghyMan]

Useful trick I've read in a few engineering threads; http://www.tap-die.com/contents/en-uk/d296_Tip_Remove_Broken_Tap_Drill_Reamer_Tap_and_Die_Co.html

Works with stainless except slower

 

[cagey]

Useful trick I've read in a few engineering threads; http://www.tap-die.com/contents/en-uk/d296_Tip_Remove_Broken_Tap_Drill_Reamer_Tap_and_Die_Co.html

Works with stainless except slower

Thanks worth a try although bolt is horizontal maybe plasticine cups on stanchions, nice link, Thanks

 

[superheat6k]

Plenty of penetrating oil, a hammer, a turbo torch and mole grips.

Firstly soak in the penetrating oil. Rap sharply with a hammer around the seizure. The raps need to be precise and very very hard - the idea is to shock the corrosion bond and form cracks the penetrating oil can run into. Leave to soak. Then if you can get moles on the remnant of the bolt at the same time apply intense heat very localised to the area if the seizure, whilst working the bolt to free it.

Without seeing the precise detail further more advice is difficult.

 

[DinghyMan]

Thanks worth a try although bolt is horizontal maybe plasticine cups on stanchions, nice link, Thanks

I like it as there is no hammer work or heat involved so saves the risk of causing more damage than you started with.

I make a lot of things with plastics like Acetal & Delrin so keep it as a solution when I break a tap as heat and hammers aren't an option, seen it mentioned several times on model engineering sites as very successful but not fast

 

[cagey]

I like it as there is no hammer work or heat involved so saves the risk of causing more damage than you started with.

I make a lot of things with plastics like Acetal & Delrin so keep it as a solution when I break a tap as heat and hammers aren't an option, seen it mentioned several times on model engineering sites as very successful but not fast

Agreed, had tried all the old ones, Boiling water, heat and cold, diesel, battering and big Stillsons and the old ones have not worked, perhaps angle grinder and buy new bases is reasonable way to go
K

 

[pete]

I like it as there is no hammer work or heat involved

This sounds like a really good tip but not if the part is fixed to the deck have you read the info on your link.

METHOD: - Using a non-ferrous saucepan (aluminium or glass/Pyrex is best) - add boiling water from a kettle and stri in the Alum until no more will dissolve (a saturated solution). - Dont use a steel saucepan.

Immerse the casting in the solution so that the broken tap is covered and leave on a low heat (just below boiling point - this is essential). Top up with boiling water periodically so that the broken tap hole is always immersed in the solution.

A stream of 'fizzy' bubbles will emerge from the hole. - It may take 2 or 3 hours of simmering to completely dissolve the remnants of the tap, but eventually the hole will be completely clear and shiny new.

Keeping it simmering just under boiling point for 2 to 3 hours will be pretty challenging without heat being involved

Pete

 

[Bosun Higgs]

I guess you're talking about the angular solid alloy stanchion bases with sideways bolts through the toe rail and one downwards through the deck. Stainless stanchions?

I had one shear its deck bolt when a competitor in a race hooked his boom over my guard rails and pulled them out like a long bow. Having previously has to remove another frozen stanchion on the other side I simply drilled out the heads of the sideways bolts and took the stanchion together with its base back to the home garage. There I applied serious heat to the alloy and that allowed me to remove the retaining bolts and the remainder of the sideways bolts and free everything up. But it does need serious heat - like the blowlamp playing on the alloy for 10 mins continuous.

In my experience you wont get anywhere with all the release fluids that people suggest. But I will try the alum approach next time round out of curiosity and cos I always did like playing in the chemi lab. That said I do know that serious heat does always work. Differential expansion you see.

 

[DinghyMan]

This sounds like a really good tip but not if the part is fixed to the deck have you read the info on your link.

METHOD: - Using a non-ferrous saucepan (aluminium or glass/Pyrex is best) - add boiling water from a kettle and stri in the Alum until no more will dissolve (a saturated solution). - Dont use a steel saucepan.

Immerse the casting in the solution so that the broken tap is covered and leave on a low heat (just below boiling point - this is essential). Top up with boiling water periodically so that the broken tap hole is always immersed in the solution.

A stream of 'fizzy' bubbles will emerge from the hole. - It may take 2 or 3 hours of simmering to completely dissolve the remnants of the tap, but eventually the hole will be completely clear and shiny new.

Keeping it simmering just under boiling point for 2 to 3 hours will be pretty challenging without heat being involved

Pete

The method also works well by just warming the solution and keeping it in contact with the seized parts using putty, etc, solution does not have to be heated but works well, but obviously much slower, if not heated