Not come across 316 wire or connectors. Tinned copper is the usual way to go. Merlin sell tinned wire and connectors marketed as being suitable for a marine environment. Not cheap but then neither would 316 ones!
Also, it would be very hard to crimp 316 stainless. Crimped joints rely on deforming both the connector and the wire to form a gas-tight seal. I don't see how you could do this with the usual hand tooling with 316.
I also suspect that 316 wire, being more rigid, would be more susceptible to fatigue fracture.
As 316 is a very poor conductor of electricity you're most unlikely to find such things anywhere.
In some electronic applications where corrosion is a problem gold-plated mini-connectors are used.
You'll be best advised to source some tinned copper wire, though copper spade connectors always corrode and need replacement about every 5 years, especially the -ve return.
I can't give you a supplier, but stranded stainless wire - usually covered in fibreglass insulation - and stainless crimp connectors are commonly used for making connections to hot things such as electric elements and higher temperature filament lamps.
Depending on how much you're needing, the wiring harness from a scrap electric cooker might give you what you want!
Unless your application involves very high currents and / or very long runs, you can safely ignore the increased resistance of SS versus Cu.
Besides the slightly pedantic point that 230V falls within the IEC definition of "Low Voltage" (50 - 1000V), the acceptability or otherwise of SS wires or connectors has nothing directly to do with the source voltage. The issue is the likely volt drop which, as I said, depends on the likely current and conductor dimensions. Without knowing the proposed application it is not possible to state definitively whether or not SS is suitable. I made the suggestion - which I hold to - that in most "normal" uses there is unlikely to be a problem. Obviously if supplied with more facts a more quantative answer could be given.
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The high temperature stuff I've commonly seen is called "INTEMP", and I think is nickel plated copper, rather than SS ... but it's not cheap!
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That's the point. In a situation where the higher volt drop associated with using SS would be unacceptable, then there are more exotic solutions - at a price. If the volt drop is too small to bother about, then SS is fine.
I have had problems on several occasions, with what appears to be stainless steel contacts, in things such as torches. It appears to be caused hy high surface resistance, similar to the problems with aluminium. I suspect this is caused by the normally protective surface oxide. I have actually seen the contacts glow red in a torch! (Burnt my finger).
Now that's very interesting. I've a couple of non working torches that I've left in the "to be fixed sometime" box because none of the obvious checks showed up the fault. I'll maybe have another look...
I wonder what effect a generous application of that universal panacea, Vasaline, followed by abrasion would achieve? Thoughts: air excluded by vasaline, no re-oxidation?
There used to be stuff called Servisol that came in a spray can and did exactly the opposite of damp-start and wd40 i.e. made everything conductive. No - it wasn't just salt water!