ST6002 Display Fault

Gustywinds

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After 5 weeks of boat ownership and 2 weeks actually using her, we’ve got our first fault.
The ST6002 Autopilot display LCD goes very faint after 40-45 minutes and then shuts off a few more minutes. As far as I can tell, the unit is still working as it will hold a course and change 1 deg when the +1 or -1 is pressed ( we are in a canal so using +/- 10 is a bit risky.
Switching off and on again does nothing, switching off for ~ 15 mins and then on restores normality for a further 40 mins
Backlight is working, contrast is already at max (15) when it is working.
I assume the LCD or its driver is overheating and is probably heading for complete failure?
It’s not really an issue in the short term as we are going to be on canals for quite some time but I’d like to get a fix ready for some point in the future. There are a couple of secondhand units on EBay, one in Denmark, one in Ireland but I’m thinking this might be good money after bad and I might be better going for something newer.
Any suggestions? It’s being fed from a new Garmin 1223 installed 3 weeks ago and the guy who installed it tried to upsell l to a new Garmin autopilot system but that was going to be around 3000 Euro. Presumably I can just replace the Autopilot display rather than everything if I stick with Raymarine or are there compatibility issues with old/new stuff?
 

PaulRainbow

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After 5 weeks of boat ownership and 2 weeks actually using her, we’ve got our first fault.
The ST6002 Autopilot display LCD goes very faint after 40-45 minutes and then shuts off a few more minutes. As far as I can tell, the unit is still working as it will hold a course and change 1 deg when the +1 or -1 is pressed ( we are in a canal so using +/- 10 is a bit risky.
Switching off and on again does nothing, switching off for ~ 15 mins and then on restores normality for a further 40 mins
Backlight is working, contrast is already at max (15) when it is working.
I assume the LCD or its driver is overheating and is probably heading for complete failure?
It’s not really an issue in the short term as we are going to be on canals for quite some time but I’d like to get a fix ready for some point in the future. There are a couple of secondhand units on EBay, one in Denmark, one in Ireland but I’m thinking this might be good money after bad and I might be better going for something newer.
Any suggestions? It’s being fed from a new Garmin 1223 installed 3 weeks ago and the guy who installed it tried to upsell l to a new Garmin autopilot system but that was going to be around 3000 Euro. Presumably I can just replace the Autopilot display rather than everything if I stick with Raymarine or are there compatibility issues with old/new stuff?
Depends on the type of autopilot ECU, what do you have ? Later models of Raymarine can be fitted with the P70.

3000 euros to change to a Garmin autopilot sounds a bit steep, again, depending on the rest of the autopilot. What drive do you have ?
 

Gustywinds

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Depends on the type of autopilot ECU, what do you have ? Later models of Raymarine can be fitted with the P70.

3000 euros to change to a Garmin autopilot sounds a bit steep, again, depending on the rest of the autopilot. What drive do you have ?
According to the pack of information with the boat it is an Autohelm 100/300, I haven’t physically eyeballed it to check. As far as I know It drives a pump which operates a hydraulic ram which operates the rudders. There is a linear sensor in parallel with the ram as far as I remember ( the storage there is rather full at the moment!) Engine is single shaft drive VP D6
 

PaulRainbow

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According to the pack of information with the boat it is an Autohelm 100/300,
Unfortunately the P60 won't work with that, see : Raymarine compatability
I haven’t physically eyeballed it to check. As far as I know It drives a pump which operates a hydraulic ram which operates the rudders. There is a linear sensor in parallel with the ram as far as I remember ( the storage there is rather full at the moment!) Engine is single shaft drive VP D6
You do not need to change the pump to upgrade, you can just change the core pack, either a new Garmin or Raymarine. I would go with Garmin if you change. Costs about £1500 plus a few cables.

Reactor 40 Mechanical/Retrofit/Solenoid Corepack | Garmin
 

Gustywinds

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ou do not need to change the pump to upgrade, you can just change the core pack, either a new Garmin or Raymarine. I would go with Garmin if you change. Costs about £1500 plus a few cables.

Reactor 40 Mechanical/Retrofit/Solenoid Corepack | Garmin
Thank you very much! Looking at the quote from the Dutch company there was 850 Euro of pump kit in there. I'll have a look around EU vendors and see how prices compare to buying in UK and having to pay VAT twice!
 

Gustywinds

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Unfortunately the P60 won't work with that, see : Raymarine compatability

You do not need to change the pump to upgrade, you can just change the core pack, either a new Garmin or Raymarine. I would go with Garmin if you change. Costs about £1500 plus a few cables.

Reactor 40 Mechanical/Retrofit/Solenoid Corepack | Garmin
GHP Reactor 40 Mechanical/Refit
Slightly fancier controller but price seems OK and they will deliver to my friend’s address in Den Haag. I have had a good read on the documentation and am fairly comfortable I can fit myself. Not quite sure where I’ll find a sufficiently large expanse of water to do the calibration wizard.
 

PaulRainbow

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GHP Reactor 40 Mechanical/Refit
Slightly fancier controller but price seems OK and they will deliver to my friend’s address in Den Haag. I have had a good read on the documentation and am fairly comfortable I can fit myself. Not quite sure where I’ll find a sufficiently large expanse of water to do the calibration wizard.
The GHC50 is a nice, touch screen controller. You will need two additional cable, one for the rudder sensor and another for the drive.

Do the best you can with the calibration and it will likely ask if you want to synch with GPS heading.
 
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