ST1000 and ST2000 swap

[mattonthesea]

My 2000 software went mad recently and, despite help from this parish, it would not recover

I've just replaced it with a 1000 but I realised that the software is the same. Am I mad to think of swapping the compass and circuit board into the 2000 box? The mechanics of the 2000 are much better.
Thanks

 

[V1701]

In your position I'd be tempted but you would probably invalidate the warranty on the new one...

 

[zulloboy]

Maybe wait till the warranty expires then do it. Also, have a good look inside your 2000, as it is not uncommon for debris to interfere with the free movement of the fluxgate, causing what can look like "software madness". Lucky you if you can resuscitate it and sell one off!

Cheers, Graeme

 

[Oldgeezer]

Have a look in the old one first to check the rubber debris (inevitable in them!) hasn't fouled the fluxgate compass. Neither of these tiller pilots have end stop protection and consequently the rubber stops get churned and destroyed. Bits wander about inside and......

I'm just about to add easy end stop protection that doesn't need them pulling apart as I noticed the motor takes 6amps when they hit the end stops, but in normal use only about 2 or 3. So an overcurrent protector in the feed will do it! Just ordered from ebay 6V 12V 24V 10A PWM DC Motor Over Current Load Protection Switch Module Governor.

Should work in theory..... Current goes high - module disconnects 12v - ST1000 resets. Job done! ( Then see why it hit the end stop!)

 

[zulloboy]

Looking forward to hearing how it goes, but wondering how the logic board will cope with the PWM chopped supply.

It might drop out, which would de-energize the motor, which would drop the current and let the "governor" allow it the full 12V again. But it would then be in manual mode with the tiller hard over, not what you are after. It might work if it would fit internally, and was wired so it did not affect the pcb supply, but that's a whole other project.

4 years after I fitted internal limit switches, my ST2000+ is still working brilliantly. All up it took about a full day's work but worth every minute. I reckon it'll last forever now.
Cheers, Graeme

 

[mattonthesea]

Thanks Old G. I took the compass out and checked it over. The final straw was that it went back to constant alarm when connected to power - again!

Someone in this parish posted a few years ago about some key to swapping 1000 to 2000 but I'm going to wait until summer cruise is over before looking that up.

It does surprise me that they have made no improvement to either. You'd think they'd learn by, for example, the British motorcycle collapse. And I'd be happy with a simple one; all I want is plus and minus one and ten and off and on. But there you go.

 

[Oldgeezer]

When removing the PCB be very careful with the fluxgate compass wire. Its very thin and needs to be pulled from the PCB socket firmly but carefully! I pulled it out before the other leads as they need a bit more force!

Swapping the bits around can be done (but I've not tried it!) From the service manual........

The ST1000+ and ST2000+ autopilots use the same PCB (Q218), but gears in
the ST1000+ and ST2000+ drive modules are different, so each pilot runs a
different program. Both sets of software are contained within the same chip.
To select the correct program:

1. Press the -10° and +1° keys until the display shows the pilot type number,
2000 or 1000 (approx. 5 seconds)

2. Press the -10° and +1° keys again until the display flashes the pilot type
number (approx. 5 seconds)

3. Select the correct pilot type using the +1° and -1° keys

4. Save the setting by pressing the -10° and +1° keys until the normal Standby
display appears (approx. 2 seconds)

Changing Autopilot type clears all calibration setting/compass linearisation and
returns the unit to factory setting.

 

[mattonthesea]

When removing the PCB be very careful with the fluxgate compass wire. Its very thin and needs to be pulled from the PCB socket firmly but carefully! I pulled it out before the other leads as they need a bit more force!

Swapping the bits around can be done (but I've not tried it!) From the service manual........

The ST1000+ and ST2000+ autopilots use the same PCB (Q218), but gears in
the ST1000+ and ST2000+ drive modules are different, so each pilot runs a
different program. Both sets of software are contained within the same chip.
To select the correct program:

1. Press the -10° and +1° keys until the display shows the pilot type number,
2000 or 1000 (approx. 5 seconds)

2. Press the -10° and +1° keys again until the display flashes the pilot type
number (approx. 5 seconds)

3. Select the correct pilot type using the +1° and -1° keys

4. Save the setting by pressing the -10° and +1° keys until the normal Standby
display appears (approx. 2 seconds)

Changing Autopilot type clears all calibration setting/compass linearisation and
returns the unit to factory setting.

Thanks Old Geezer. Finally got around to (plucked up courage) and it worked a treat. It is a bit strange in that when pressing the -10 & +1 it beeps once and nothing happens. Then a few seconds later it starts flashing. The first times I let go thinking it had done something but it hadn't! Once I twigged this everything else went to plan. Now all I need is to get back on the water so I can recalibrate it

 

[jdavey]

4 years after I fitted internal limit switches, my ST2000+ is still working brilliantly. All up it took about a full day's work but worth every minute. I reckon it'll last forever now.
Cheers, Graeme

I would be really keen to see pictures and part numbers for these limit switches Graeme, I have three tiller pilots that are on constant rotation with the Raymarine repair centre.

 

[zulloboy]

Hi there jd. Next time I pull it apart I'll take some pix, although I will have to set modesty aside and say I can't see needing to open it up for a long time!

If you did see the pix you'd say I'm a very crude technician with apalling handiwork - I'm sure the regular crew of old whingers on this forum would chime in and rubbish the hell out me. My intention was to "prototype" it and then go back in and make it nice, but since it worked so well it was a case of "if it ain't broke....." so it will remain looking like a dog's breakfast.

There's nothing special about the limit switches - they are small ones as per the link below, with RC snubbers fitted across the contacts.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/spdt-250v-3a-miniature-micro-switch-with-lever/p/SM1038

I gathered some inspiration from these chaps, but I thought the relays used by the German bloke were overkill and unnecessary.

If you are chewing them up at that rate, is there something you can do about the tiller load - trim, weather helm etc? Sorry for the egg-sucky question, but you never know......
Good luck, I hate Raymarine for their attitude to this product. If you replace it, get a Simrad instead!

Cheers, Graeme