SSB antenna cables GTO-15

[MapisM]

I have a short piece of cable going from the coupler to the SSb antenna, 2' or so.
Trouble is, the last part of it is external, and every other year I must change it because the insulation is "cooked" by the sun.
My local supplier says it's the only one they've got, which is hardly surprising, 'cause it's a good way to keep selling it year after year...
But I'm now getting sick of changing it so frequently, also because the coupler is not easily accessible.
So, I was wondering if anyone can recommend a supplier of these cables (so called GTO-15, rated for high voltage), but with a proper anti-UV insulation, capable to withstand external usage.
By browsing around, I only found US suppliers...
Ta!

 

[Barry Jones]

I'm a bit puzzled by this.

Normally copper wire feeder is used between the output of the ATU and the SSB whip.

Is this insulated for safety because it can be easily reached by people on your boat ??

 

[MapisM]

Well, I guess that in terms of electrical requirements, any decent size wire would do, but my understanding is that the recommended type is GTO-15.
Of course such spec has only to see with insulation (up to 15kV, I reckon), but as I said the last part of it runs externally, before connecting to the whip, hence requiring also UV protection.
And that part of cable is in the port walkaround. So, even if remote, the possibility that someone onboard touch it with one feet while the helmsman is transmitting does exist.

 

[Barry Jones]

I know the Americans swear by GTO-15 but I've never come across it in Europe.

For low power SSB's I've always used the inner of RG213/U coaxial cable with its clear insulation left on. Probably not UV resistant long term, but plentiful and cheap to replace.

 

[MapisM]

Mmmm... Interesting.
Waddumean exactly by "low power"? Mine is a 150W.
Besides, when using the coaxial, why not leave also the tubular shield and the external insulation?
If nothing else, it's another layer of protection around the conductor...

 

[Barry Jones]

150W/250W

There is no added advantage of using the screen and outer jacket of the coax and you will have to put ring terminals on each end of the copper wire inner to connect to the bolt on the top of the ATU and whip base.

If you need to, I guess you could put some non-metallic waterproof UV resistant tape around the clear insulation to protect it from the sun.
Definitely put self-amalgamating tape around the exposed metal to minimise corrosion.

It might be worth a try.

Although the live parts will be covered, I would never totally trust the insulation of the S/A tape and coax inner, so you will need to be careful to make sure nobody touches the ATU, lead out or whip when transmitting - RF is deadly and at best can give nasty burns.

Even with GTO-15, the connections at either end are exposed in the same way that they would be using the coax inner method.

For the sake of 1m RG213/U, If your ATU won't tune or you have any ill-effects, you could always go back to the GTO-15 idea.

 

[MapisM]

you will have to put ring terminals on each end of the copper wire inner to connect to the bolt on the top of the ATU and whip base.

...

Although the live parts will be covered, I would never totally trust the insulation of the S/A tape and coax inner, so you will need to be careful to make sure nobody touches the ATU, lead out or whip when transmitting

Actually the whip base is arranged in a more clever way, with no ring terminal - see pic below.
The white plastic cover slides down, to fully protect the conducting parts.
On the ATU instead, there's the typical ring terminal, and it is indeed exposed, but it's placed inside a locker and behind a wooden panel, hence no risk at all on that side.

Using some tape around an RG213/u is a good idea, anyway. Easy and simple, I love that on a boat!
Thanks for your suggestions.

 

[Barry Jones]

Oh I see what you mean.
Should be fine - if you are worried, just put some UV resistant hose between the cable gland and the boot on the antenna. Will keep the sun off, provide a protective air gap around the feeder and stop toe contact as people squeeze by.

 

[MapisM]

Blimey, just a piece of garden hose, that's an even better idea. Result!
I used the same trick to protect the hydraulic hoses of my passerelle, but for some reason I never thought to do the same with this cable... Thanks again!