South Coast, must see places ?

[activesail]

Weymouth is an overlooked port, I always enjoy an overnight there. Some great little restaurants along the harbour wall.

 

[reginaldon]

Apologies for the confusion.

Starting point is Bowling on the Clyde, end point Edinburgh.(six weeks available)

I decided last summer in the cold rain of the Western Isles that I wanted to sail somewhere warmer in future, thus the voyage south.

I thought I would try to do the Clyde to the Scillies as quick as poss, in a oner if the weather permits, so in answer to your question, a one way trip eastwards from Scilly.

Was swimming in a fjord with grandchildren, they sunbathed, in latitude of the Shetlands in August this year. We didn't do much of that on the South Coast!

 

[Fascadale]

Was swimming in a fjord with grandchildren, they sunbathed, in latitude of the Shetlands in August this year. We didn't do much of that on the South Coast!

We were over near Bergen in summer 09. I was amazed by how warm the water was. Swimming off the boat was a pleasure. Such an activity would have been life threatening on the west coast this last summer

I hear it can be warm enough on the south coast to wear shorts.

 

[hlb]

I'd leave out the Scillies. Yes it's a nice place. But you could spend a week trying to get there and another one trying to get back. Spend your time round the West Country, you wont find a bad place and it's all very easy.

To be honest, with the time you've got, I cant see you visiting anywhere except maybe Tesco's.

 

[Seajet]

I was thinking exactly the same as hlb, any chance you could extend your time in the SW ?!

BTW As I mentioned in an earlier post, as far as Poole Harbour goes, Studland is a very tactically useful position - and very scenic in the right conditions - and South Deep in the harbour, + Wareham up the River Frome are really worth visiting if you have time, but avoid Poole itself if seeking even half decent food.

There's a good food pub in Wareham ( halfway up just off to the right, someone will know where I mean ) and there's a pub at Studland after a very nice walk through the trees from the beach, though I haven't eaten in there for years.

I'd still say find an extra month and spend it between Poole & Falmouth, I also would ditch the Scillies with your timeframe...

 

[Greenwichman]

See more and more of less and less?

Is it the considered opinion then that the South West Coast is the best bit of cruising in England? (Tin hat time) (I have been impressed by the East Anglian stuff on KTL)

SW is lovely, but not the best ...... that accolade belongs here on the Essex/Suffolk coast. Only MHO, of course! SW distances are greater than might appear at first sight; weather can be LARGE; and there be rocks.

Wherever, choose between: loads of sea-time punctuated by fleeting, indigestible stop-overs, or - my preference - travel slowly, see less, enjoy more.

 

[Romeo]

Apologies for the confusion.

Starting point is Bowling on the Clyde, end point Edinburgh.(six weeks available)

I decided last summer in the cold rain of the Western Isles that I wanted to sail somewhere warmer in future, thus the voyage south.

I thought I would try to do the Clyde to the Scillies as quick as poss, in a oner if the weather permits, so in answer to your question, a one way trip eastwards from Scilly.

Buy an extra jumper and go round the North again. Cheaper in the long run (even allowing for the jumper) , a bit less busy, and no danger of disturbing the sea horses.

 

[Fascadale]

Buy an extra jumper and go round the North again. Cheaper in the long run (even allowing for the jumper) , a bit less busy, and no danger of disturbing the sea horses.

I think it would take a jumper and an Ebersbacher to get me back to the North.

Having been stormbound in the Fair Isle a year or so ago I can assure you that not even the flower pot trick was enough to keep the boat warm, and that was in August.

Anyway after loitering around the forum for a year or so I am curious to see the delights of places like Studland Bay, Swashways and the whole Solent experience. I feel I need it to be the "complete yachty" . Mind you having watched Three Men sailing round the Point and up to Scavaig on the TV this evening I do doubt the sanity of my choice.

On a more serious note, I have spent a bit of time checking (Google Earth and Navico) out places recommended by fellow forumites. Newton Ferrers, Wareham, the Fal and the Dart look very attractive. Very different from sailing on the west coast.

I take the point about not having enough time to do the South Coast justice. I just wish I had more than six weeks holiday!

 

[dt4134]

Anyway after loitering around the forum for a year or so I am curious to see the delights of places like Studland Bay, Swashways and the whole Solent experience.

You could visit Hamble. Not because it is that scenic (although probably it was 100 years ago) but because it'll allow you to tell your grandchildren that you've seen the boating equivalent of Tesco's car park.

Yarmouth is probably the harbour in the Solent with most character. Worth visiting it as it looks like it'll be changing quite soon.

You could also try the Beaulieu River and look around Buckler's Hard. Visit Cowes because it is Cowes and go up river, even to the Folly.

Portsmouth Harbour isn't much in itself but handy to visit HMS Victory etc. You could even visit the infamous Puerto Solento.

 

[Chris Davison]

Places to visit.

If you have never been to the south coast of the Uk then cowes is a must. Then i would got o Dartmouth, Salcombe, Newton Ferrers, Up the tamar river in Plymouth. Then on to fowey, worth a row up the river there. Then Falmouth and surrounding area. Once you get away from the motorway that is the central south coast there are some truly beutifull places, Mevagissey is pretty nice if you have a boat you can dry out.

 

[Halcyon Yachts]

I agree with some of the other posts - it would definitely be good if you could allocate a bit more time for cruising the south coast...

A few of my favourite spots:

Scillies, Helford, St Mawes, Fowey, Tamar, Yealm and Dart.

I would also recommend a copy of Mark Fishwick's Westcountry Cruising.

 

[jdc]

And now for something completely different!

Plans always get modified by conditions and I don't expect anybody would actually follow this to the letter, but there may be a germ of an idea you like. I am assuming quiet weather predominantly from the W. Obviously NW is ideal.


Sail at night and enjoy the ports by day(1). If you sail by day and go to port at night you get just as knackered yet see mostly your bunk and the inside of your eyelids and not much of the ports or anchorages themselves. Sailing the channel at night is easier and so more common than it is in Scotland I believe. Note the tides: much the best for this plan is to choose a tide which is running up-channel during the first half of the night at the start of your week (at the Lizard it runs E from HW Falmouth -3 to HW Falmouth +3). Let's suppose you are lucky enough that HW Falmouth is at 22:00 on the day you get to Land's End: eg 22nd June. Nights are short then anyway.

Divide the area up into regions or experiences, and taste each one. 7 days is far to short to do more, but could nonetheless be a really memorable cruise if the weather is kind. My divisions would be:

i. Scilly, to enjoy the colours. Make this your landfall from Scotland. 3 or 4 good routes in from the N, I'd do St Helen's pool, and then through the Cheeses to Old Grimsby where I'd anchor off the blockhouse. Ashore on Tresco walk over the hill and have a pint in the charming beer garden opposite the pub. Alternative in a S'ly would be an anchorage on the N side of St Martins, or if N'ly the cove between St Agnes and Gugh (Turk's Head is recommended). Leave 6pm via Crow sound if from Old Grimsby (an hour after LW, so a little dicey depending on your draft). 42 miles to the Lizard, so expect to arrive about 1am (aim to just make it before the tide turns).

ii. E Lizard, to feel Cornish and admire wild flowers on the coast path. Anchor at Kilcobben cove (GPS makes this easy; without it's possible but watch out for for Vrogue rocks). Wake to a beautiful location and potter the 18 miles or so past the Manacles to Falmouth. You can send some of the crew to jog the coast path to Cadgwith if they like: the Devil's frying pan is worth a look. Spend all day in Falmouth doing museums (Pendennis Castle recommended) and/or pubs. Set off late afternoon, sail to Portloe and anchor off for a drink. The Lugger is famous, but I prefer to go 80m up the hill to the Ship. Before having that drink, walk up the hill on the footpath and look out to sea: if clear you can see Black head and the Lizard. Don't forget to buy pasties for lunch while in Falmouth.

iii. Plymouth sound, for the history. Takes 6 hrs, so set off after dinner. Pass Dodman just as it gets really dark and carry a fair tide most of the way to Rame. Go to Barn pool: there should be enough light to go W round Drakes Island. A kip, breakfast and explore the Edgecombe estate - really lovely and quite deserted in the early morning. The pub at Cremyll (Edgecombe Arms) is rather grotty but well positioned for watching people and boats, but I'd take the ferry into town. Then take the mid day tide to the R. Yealm and Newton Ferrers. Lazy afternoon unless you've the energy (and there's no S in the wind) to poke into the Erm for a swim off Nethercombe beach before dark.

iv. South Hams, for the authentic grockle experience. Half tide entrance to Salcombe, so no hurry (you need to get there around 10 am, and it's not that far (30 miles or so from memory) so perhaps a 5am start. Light anyway since leaving the Yealm in the dark is tricky if you don't know it. Anchor or pick up a mooring in Salcombe. Explore, enjoy the experience, pay up cheerfully, play spot the hooray henry, marvel at the house prices etc. Leave in the evening, maybe after dinner ashore.

v. Lyme bay and the Dorset cost, for the colour of the water (sadly not the Jurassic cost this trip). Can you arrange this to be on Thursday night? If so you'll enjoy the 'Thursday War' when the grey boats stooge around without lights - it adds to the fun and keeps you on your toes past Portland. Salcombe to Weymouth is about 55 miles, so 10 hrs say. Leave when the tide runs E past Start. I like Weymouth however I'm not sure I'd visit this trip. Instead there's Lulworth and Kimmeridge and the lovely Dorset coast to anchor off for lunch.

vi. On to the Solent. 45 miles or so, so only 8 hrs. You can easily come through the Needles in the dark, and then anywhere as you fancy (I don't know the Solent that well but I guess Cowes is a must). And a day in hand!

Extras if you can spare an extra day would include Dartmouth, making sure to take the inshore passage between Start and the bank, stopping at the ruined village of Hallsands (there's a fine anchorage just offshore) to explore it and its ghosts. I hate Poole, but others like it and you may be a Baden-Powell fan I suppose.

This may sound crazy - I rather specialise in being flamed for my suggestions - but there's some sense in it; remember you're a long time dead.

(1) At least I practice what I preach for this one.

 

[Fascadale]

Plans always get modified by conditions and I don't expect anybody would actually follow this to the letter, but there may be a germ of an idea you like. I am assuming quiet weather predominantly from the W. Obviously NW is ideal.


Sail at night and enjoy the ports by day(1). If you sail by day and go to port at night you get just as knackered yet see mostly your bunk and the inside of your eyelids and not much of the ports or anchorages themselves. Sailing the channel at night is easier and so more common than it is in Scotland I believe. Note the tides: much the best for this plan is to choose a tide which is running up-channel during the first half of the night at the start of your week (at the Lizard it runs E from HW Falmouth -3 to HW Falmouth +3). Let's suppose you are lucky enough that HW Falmouth is at 22:00 on the day you get to Land's End: eg 22nd June. Nights are short then anyway.

Divide the area up into regions or experiences, and taste each one. 7 days is far to short to do more, but could nonetheless be a really memorable cruise if the weather is kind. My divisions would be:

i. Scilly, to enjoy the colours. Make this your landfall from Scotland. 3 or 4 good routes in from the N, I'd do St Helen's pool, and then through the Cheeses to Old Grimsby where I'd anchor off the blockhouse. Ashore on Tresco walk over the hill and have a pint in the charming beer garden opposite the pub. Alternative in a S'ly would be an anchorage on the N side of St Martins, or if N'ly the cove between St Agnes and Gugh (Turk's Head is recommended). Leave 6pm via Crow sound if from Old Grimsby (an hour after LW, so a little dicey depending on your draft). 42 miles to the Lizard, so expect to arrive about 1am (aim to just make it before the tide turns).

ii. E Lizard, to feel Cornish and admire wild flowers on the coast path. Anchor at Kilcobben cove (GPS makes this easy; without it's possible but watch out for for Vrogue rocks). Wake to a beautiful location and potter the 18 miles or so past the Manacles to Falmouth. You can send some of the crew to jog the coast path to Cadgwith if they like: the Devil's frying pan is worth a look. Spend all day in Falmouth doing museums (Pendennis Castle recommended) and/or pubs. Set off late afternoon, sail to Portloe and anchor off for a drink. The Lugger is famous, but I prefer to go 80m up the hill to the Ship. Before having that drink, walk up the hill on the footpath and look out to sea: if clear you can see Black head and the Lizard. Don't forget to buy pasties for lunch while in Falmouth.

iii. Plymouth sound, for the history. Takes 6 hrs, so set off after dinner. Pass Dodman just as it gets really dark and carry a fair tide most of the way to Rame. Go to Barn pool: there should be enough light to go W round Drakes Island. A kip, breakfast and explore the Edgecombe estate - really lovely and quite deserted in the early morning. The pub at Cremyll (Edgecombe Arms) is rather grotty but well positioned for watching people and boats, but I'd take the ferry into town. Then take the mid day tide to the R. Yealm and Newton Ferrers. Lazy afternoon unless you've the energy (and there's no S in the wind) to poke into the Erm for a swim off Nethercombe beach before dark.

iv. South Hams, for the authentic grockle experience. Half tide entrance to Salcombe, so no hurry (you need to get there around 10 am, and it's not that far (30 miles or so from memory) so perhaps a 5am start. Light anyway since leaving the Yealm in the dark is tricky if you don't know it. Anchor or pick up a mooring in Salcombe. Explore, enjoy the experience, pay up cheerfully, play spot the hooray henry, marvel at the house prices etc. Leave in the evening, maybe after dinner ashore.

v. Lyme bay and the Dorset cost, for the colour of the water (sadly not the Jurassic cost this trip). Can you arrange this to be on Thursday night? If so you'll enjoy the 'Thursday War' when the grey boats stooge around without lights - it adds to the fun and keeps you on your toes past Portland. Salcombe to Weymouth is about 55 miles, so 10 hrs say. Leave when the tide runs E past Start. I like Weymouth however I'm not sure I'd visit this trip. Instead there's Lulworth and Kimmeridge and the lovely Dorset coast to anchor off for lunch.

vi. On to the Solent. 45 miles or so, so only 8 hrs. You can easily come through the Needles in the dark, and then anywhere as you fancy (I don't know the Solent that well but I guess Cowes is a must). And a day in hand!

Extras if you can spare an extra day would include Dartmouth, making sure to take the inshore passage between Start and the bank, stopping at the ruined village of Hallsands (there's a fine anchorage just offshore) to explore it and its ghosts. I hate Poole, but others like it and you may be a Baden-Powell fan I suppose.

This may sound crazy - I rather specialise in being flamed for my suggestions - but there's some sense in it; remember you're a long time dead.

(1) At least I practice what I preach for this one.

Thank you for a marvellous response to my enquiry. I suspect you are enjoying the New Year as I am, at least I have the excuse of the 'flu.

It will take me a while to make sense of all you suggest: time spent with the tide tables , Google Earth and Navico.

What a great idea though to sail with the tide in the late evening and through the night. How strong is the tide along the SW and S coasts?

Happy New Year from the great northern capital

 

[Seajet]

In answer to how strong are the tides in the S / Sw of England, well for a start we're all enjoying conjecture about your possible trip stops, as you hinted enjoying it vicariously...

I know you'd be well aware of this long before casting off, but generally the tides on the Southern English coast are not particularly strong, say 1-2.5 knots offshore, so obviously still worth working with rather than against, particularly with a headwind.

Unless it's a F-5-6 +, wind over tide doesn't create too much to worry about, in a boat well found enough to have already come quite some way; this is VERY different at tidal gates like The Lizard, Portland Race ( I hope you've seen the debate on this, and the hairy time I had there going West to East ) and not least the Needles Channel at the W end of the Solent - very nasty indeed with huge breaking waves if there's been a protracted spell of SW gales.

In good weather the North Channel is the best route, though it can take a couple of anxious minutes to pick up the buoy at the turning mark to come & go to & from offshore via relatively close along by Hurst beach using the large starboard hand N.Head buoy as the turning mark to avoid the not-to-be-underestimated shingles bank parallel to the Needles, which the tide can set onto ( fine as long as you're watching for it ).

In general, in summer it's a series of coastal day sails, with only close-in pilotage to worry about, and that is generally a doddle, there are good fixes to be had from conspicuous marks on shore for hand-bearings, as Plan B.

The Yealm can sound tricky if one reads the pilots, but in fact is very straightforward, and Salcombe Bar ( like Chichester which I reckon much worse but still nothing to worry if treated properly ) has an evil reputation but if handled on a flood tide entering in good weather you'd wonder what the fuss is about.

Generally a sublime area to cruise, Helford, Falmouth ( maybe Percuil the best of very good options but secluded ) Fowey and the Yealm being particular highlights.

Dartmouth and Salcombe are extremely well worth visiting too, they have become a bit overloaded with tourists, but Dartmouth is a big enough place to handle it - and the museum & up-river well worth exploring - while Salcombe is lovely, and sufficiently difficult to visit by car that at least most of the visitors are at least vagueley nautical !

The Yealm scores highly because of this, it's a pain to visit by road, and may Newton Ferrers & Noss Mayo remain so...

 

[snowleopard]

I've always wanted to go to St Micheal's Mount, but they'll have to dredge it first. Maybe with your shallow draught you could make it.

The OP has 4 ft draft on a 28 footer so I guess not a bilge keeler. I wouldn't consider St Michaels if you have to lean on the wall. I love the place because I can dry out comfortably and enjoy the P&Q after the emmets have gone home.

For those who like quiet rather than marinas I suggest:

Durgan bay in the entrance to the Helford river

Channals creek below Trelissick house up the Fal

Dandy Hole up the Lynher

The Maltster's Arms up the Dart (dry out in mud)

I also enjoy the atmosphere of Padstow & Mevagissey

But to return to the original question, 8 days from Scilly to Solent is passage-making with rest stops, not cruising.

 

[Lucky Duck]

Sail at night and enjoy the ports by day(1). If you sail by day and go to port at night you get just as knackered yet see mostly your bunk and the inside of your eyelids and not much of the ports or anchorages themselves.

(1) At least I practice what I preach for this one.

Sorry, maybe I have missed something here. But if I need 8 hours sleep and I sail overnight then won't I need to catch up on my beauty sleep during the day and therefore miss out on a lot of what each destination will have to offer? IMHO there is a lot to be said for an early depature and arriving with much of the day intact but I wouldn't go as far as to sail overnight each time.

 

[Chrissie]

You have the same size boat as me, I have a 14 hp engine, going against the tide makes a big difference to the speed I make, getting up into Chichester harbour from the start of the entrance a few months ago took three hours against a spring tide, same problem with Poole and Portsmouth against the full tide.

Going with the tides each day will dictate where you stop, and distance to travel each day. There are not as many convenient anchorages as I would like, there seems to be several close together then none for miles and miles. The tightwad sailor guide gives good details and sugestions.

Weymouth is lovely, on that section you get to choose between Swanage, Studland, Worborough Bay, Portland Poole Lulworth Cove, but mostly its a case of choosing one for the night and sailing past the others, very frustrating, Enjoyed last years trip, but froze and got wet every day, that was August!

 

[billskip]

26ft saily boat, draws 4ft,

Put boat on road transport and enjoy all six weeks on south coast.

Happy new year

 

[jdc]

Need for sleep

Sorry, maybe I have missed something here. But if I need 8 hours sleep and I sail overnight then won't I need to catch up on my beauty sleep during the day and therefore miss out on a lot of what each destination will have to offer? IMHO there is a lot to be said for an early depature and arriving with much of the day intact but I wouldn't go as far as to sail overnight each time.

Only if you're single-handed. Can't half of you sleep while underway?

Besides the passages in my suggestion were typically only 6-7 hrs so don't actually require sailing all night. If one sets off at 7pm for instance and arrive at 1 or 2 am you get 50% of the passage (3 hrs say) and all the rest of the night (4 - 5 hrs), ie 7-8 hrs. The key is to make miles while doing anything 'internal' to the boat such as sleeping, washing, cooking, eating on-board, washing up etc. My wife and I 'discovered' this while cruising with the children while they were small: they got bored if the passage was more than 2-3 hrs, but if you set off just before dinner it was exciting, then it's bed-time and they wake somewhere new and exciting. The adults get at least 6hrs sleep even if it's a 12 hr passage and so only need a short snooze during the day.

 

[Lucky Duck]

By 7pm I'm usually down the pub and the quality of drinking establishments is often one of the criteria I use when choosing to visit somewhere

The point regarding kids is an interesting one though...