Soundproofing

[whisper]

Think I'll attempt to fix some extra soundproofing material in my engine bay this Summer. Advice please as to how one knows what type to buy and where from. Any other tips as to how to fit it in areas of an irregular shape and awkward to reach would be appreciated. Ta.

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[tcm]

ooh, my hobby horse. I have loads of this. In fact i have loads left over.

You need the self-adhesive stuff 32 mm ish thick from Halyard (on web, uk) with a plastic interlayer to deaden the noise some more. Not cheap, summink like 120 quid for five sheets, not sure. The shiny stuff is supposed to be best for enginerooms, and keeps it fairly bright. If you have straight black the place gets blimmin gloomy, but it is v v quiet, wifey can't hear you so do not lock the hatch. Fire retardent so no prob really. You have to block every single little bit, and every single hole, specially around any hatches.

You may feel the need for extra screws to hold it up on enginerom ceilings, but mine dint come off with self-adhesive, just bash the stuff on.

Non-self-adhesive is a totaly pain, flops off, very dificult to fit, avoid.

Just use stanley knife (the long-bladey one with bit to chop of as they get blunt is good, plus spare blades)

And massive difference to noise, can hear waves being broken by bows, and nice quiet conversation, this is mmuch much better than the builders use, even expensive builders, cos they all know lots about boats and self-tapping screws but sod all about complicated things like noise transmission and wave mechanics hence did cheap polytechnic degrees where they give you the formulae.

DO NOT stop fitting the stuff and have a little try to see if it is quieter halfway thru, cos it will be, and yerl never finish the rest of it. Like me.

If you have any spare, you can double up the thickness, or fit around helm. The quiten ciontues to up to 6 inches thick, or so they say, i havnare tried it, probly the self-adhesive wd come offf.


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[markdj]

We used the halyard white stuff, 5kg/m2 with a thin layer of foam, then barrier, then thick foam then a white finish. We cut it used a serated blade from a multi-tool - start on the finished side and just cut the white finishing layer first, then press harder to cut the thivk foam then really work and cut the barrier, then cut again and get the last thin foam bit. This way you can get a good edge and a tidy cut.

We used Floorwise 598 (I think) impact adhesive and certainly needed loads of ventilation, disposable brushes and gloves and hat.

You can see the results below. The engineroom is far more airy and bright and the saloon and helm is really quiet. Whispering is possible...

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://images.fotopic.net/?id=596001>http://images.fotopic.net/?id=596001</A>

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[whisper]

Thanks for your reply. Is it a case of the thicker it is , the better it is , the more expensive it is ? Also, any tips on how to cut it and fit it to awkward surfaces that have fittings on them? By the sound of it you are the No.1 honcho for this topic , in the world. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

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[tcm]

ah but markdy's install loks very smart. Brighter in white too.

Yup, generally, the ficker the better. Yiou have to workaround fittings and things, and make sure they still accessible. Hack away with stanley knife, replacing blades if it get hard to cut - the interlayer is good at blunting the blades.

Most important is solid air-proof if poss barrier for hatch, a decent seal so if can overlap a bit (so the hatch with extra soundproof gear sit down onto and overlap the stuff on enginerrom ceiling) much better. They don't do self-adhesive above 30-something mm, so get the thickest they do - self adhesive, tho mind, esle a right bum with glue and screws.

The white stuff looks great, imho. Bet it is all v fire retardent. The silver stuff looks the part. But plain black is v quiet with no surface stuff to bounce off, all the noise gets lost in the litle sponge holes.

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[markdj]

Not necessarily thicker is better, but the barrier mat is 5kg/m2. You can get more expensive stuff which is 10kg/m2. As for awkward surfaces, the ceiling of the engine room had been covered with thin marine ply which means the surface is flat. We also filled the cavity with expanding foam which strengthened the floor too.



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[tcm]

Re: Disgaree!

I would be very cautious of expanding foam. The stuff turns into a glutinous goo at even only moderatley high temperatures, and despite being a favourite builders bodge, even if it sets it is not a durable material long-term.



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[Piers]

Might I suggest a completely different product which is simply stunning? It's neither heavy or hard, yet does an amazing job.

Thinsulate from 3M. Results are stunning. Call Peter Furby of 3M marine division and talk with him. 07770 284926.

I would never have believed such a lightweight material could do what it does. Peter is able to give you a long list of 'reference sites'.

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[whisper]

Thanks, I have friends who work for 3M, I'll enquire further.

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