Sound deadening

ianainge

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on my 9 year old Targa the underside of the engineroom hatch is covered in a waffle style foam to reduce noise, im thinking of replacing it with compressed polyurethane foam sound absorbent panels with a foil covering which you can buy from V**** or Vetus does anyone know how good this stuff is or have any experience of it, and will it be any better than what ive got?

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tcm

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Re: halyard, engine noise

halyard do self adhesive sound deadening material, not cheap but very effective. Best is the 32 mm silver backed stuff, foam with a rubber layer, can be cut with a stanley knife and stuck on.

In general, engineers don't understand about noise. It is a pressure wave in air. So, eliminate the air leaks and you elimnate the noise. Unfortunately, they get a bit of sound "deadening" and stick it in the middle of a panel where it does nothing at all. You need to create a solid barrier against the noise - no leaks.

The primary areas are the engine hatch, the engine hatch seal, and all over the engineroom ceiling.

On a targa 48 i managed to get the noise down so far that at over 30 knots, even with the bimini up, you could still hear the noise of the waves/wake above the noise of the engines.

The Halyard stuff is tons better than standard fit. Surely you mean expanded poly? halyard have a website. .co.uk i think

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dignity

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I've just sound proofed my engine room, I've used 'QUIETLIFE' from ASAP supplies, it's got a lead barrier and foil front, it's been really effective. And a lot cheaper than VETUS.

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tcm

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Re: But, not self adhesive

having used soundproofing that is self adhesive and other that isn't, i would say that the self-adhesive speed the install a lot. I wdn't use non-self-adhesive again: eventually it can fall of and spray or other adhesives ain't great on non-new oily ish engineroom walls. Doing the targa 48 took 2-3 days with non-self adhesive, doing a bigger boat took less than a day with better result - cos with self adhesive every single bit of the material is stuck on.

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gtmoore

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Re: But, not self adhesive

I understood it that the self adhesive was not really any good on older engine bays cos of oil/grease etc. Wish I'd known.

I used lashings of evostick (setting off the gas alarm) and screws with large washers sold with the soundproofing. Infact some tricky bits I didn't glue so that I could slide panels into place neatly then screw. Obviously no good for the floor.

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tcm

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Re: the floor

um, i would say that for a fairline targa, the primary area where there'll be payback will be upper areas, where the noise goes directly up to boat occupants.

The self-adhesive works well unless the walls of the engineroom are totally covered in cack - and the halyard stuff is so self-adhesive that it simply won't move once applied so be careful.

Not sure at all about trying to deaden the lower areas of engineroom where the weight of decent stuff is excessive, can't see problems such as bilge water and so on, the grime and water will pull it off, and only the fish will benefit from the reduced noise transmited through the lower part of the hull...

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ArthurWood

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Whatever you use, don't rely solely on the adhesive, esp for bits over hot surfaces. Use the metal thingies to reinforce the holding

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tcm

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Re: yes yes

i didn't read that bit - he wants to do the hatch.

However, the selfadhesive, even though no good long term, is stillace as you can wham the stuff on , and then later use self tappers and drilled aluminium strip for example to hold it up there.

Or, if there is a flat horiz bit in the ceiling, then do that bit first and the pieces on the walls butting up against it will holdit up.

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Piers

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A product called Thinsulate has been immensely successful in sound deadening on boats. A fairly new product, it is very light indeed, with excellent sound absorbtion capabilities. Call Peter Furby of 3M (Marine) for the details. 07770 284 926.

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qsiv

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Re: halyard, engine noise

Halyard do both lead based and, for the weight conscious, a plastic based deadening material.

As you say what is really, really important is to eliminate air passages into the saloon/accomodation. Pay close attention to cale and pipe runs - often there are significant gaps through which the sound will propagate. If you have limber holes in the bilges, you may be on a bit of a loser!

On my old Nelson I also gained a significant improvement by dampeining thepanels that made up the air inlets (but dont obstruct them!).

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c_j

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Re: halyard, engine noise

TCM, could you show me how to do it on mine, Boat available three days mid week any time. :). If we need to go out cause weather is good we could close engine room hatch, there are three tubbie type lights down there so you would still be able to see fine.

On a more serious note I am going to do this noise reduction thing, but start off with engine room hatch seal, which is about as much use as a chocolate teapot.

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tcm

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Re: halyard, engine noise

seriously, i have rather overordered on the halyard gear (again) and can spare you a box at about the same rate as er stone flags, 110 quid for 2.4 sq metres. The seal itself is a doddle and can be built up with a self adhesive bodge. I will bring the stuff round in may. You need a decent extendy chip-off blade or multiple stanley blades. Does you'r have the double hatch lock or just a single?

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c_j

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Re: halyard, engine noise

Thanks for that TCM, do you want 2.4 sq mts Flagstones or £110 quid?

Double hatch lock, which neither tighten down properly. I plan to put a rubber block on to clasp so hatch lock can tighten on to it. I went down there yesterday to have closer inspection and the gaps they leave in the seals are incredible, It makes you wonder why Fairline bother to stick on the sound proofing stuff to underside of engine hatch! I would have thought a good seal around hatch would reduce noise by 50% but we shall see. To be fair its not over noisy but I would prefer less.


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tcm

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Re: halyard, engine noise

yes, the hatch seal is the most important bit. Have now bin told i must keep all the material and use it in our boat anyway, damn.

Be careful with a lot of tightening - the grp around the hatch can't take super tightening. You should be able to build up the ionside of hatch itslef with double thickness foam.

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