Solving the new gen anchor snubber problem

Ex-SolentBoy

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On our boat, and I assume others, there can be a problem with the anchor when mooring to a buoy. The problem is that the anchor prevents a fair lead from the buoy over the bow roller to a cleat or Samson post.

To avoid this we have in the past lead 2 warps from the blow cleats instead which is not ideal. Or even hung asymmetrically. (sounds painful!).

I saw this solution on the latest Rustler 44. The anchor can be lifted above the roller using a small block. I guess at about 35 kg the anchor could be lifted by hand, but the owner is no spring chicken so likes this solution.

I didn't photograph it, but the shank of the anchor slides forward into a nice retaining block when in this position.

Can anyone suggest any other ways of solving this problem with similar size anchors?

3394fb6b.jpg
 
This happens with my CQR on the Rival 41C. I now ship the anchor and stow it in the locker when on a mooring. The CQR is awkward to handle but I have the space to manoeuvre it through the pull pit. On yachts without an anchor locker, appropriate chocks on the deck may be a solution. Just an idea, food for thought.
 
If it's just for a night or so I just put the anchor on the deck nearby and lash it to anything convenient so that it doesn't slide around. Otherwise squeeze it back into the anchor locker.
 
As you can see from this picture, the anchor cannot be taken striaght back as there is not sufficient gap. So, an anchor locker (if we had one) would not be easy to access.

The tihng is just too heavy to manouver outboard as well. Thats why I like the lifting idea.
 
Well my anchor is I suppose the same dilemma and weight @ 65lb, I just tie a string to it, lead it over and around the pullpit and back down to the anchor thence up to the hand ( two to one purchase) and tie it up.
 
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Make a chain and rope bridle to use when mooring to a buoy.
The rope ends come up round the sides of the bow, through the fair leads if you have them and made off on the bow cleat(s).

I have tried that and don't like it. If you take both ends to one side you get an asymmetric pull. if you have one end onto each side the thing can saw a bit. With either solution we would have to protect from chafe as well.

The nice thing on the Rustler is that there are two bow rollers. One is grooved for the anchor. The other is smooth and specifically designed for a warp to a buoy.

I think the 2:1 approach with a sail tie will work fine for me. I am about 15 years away from needing the block hopefully. :D
 
I have a short length of floating line, about a metre, permanently attached to the anchor, with a small float on the end, to aid seeing the anchor when checking that it has set properly (Med use). When we pick up a buoy I can take the line to the pulpit, back to the hoop and up to the pulpit again, giving me a 2:1 purchase to lift the anchor.
 
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