Soldering irons

[PaulRainbow]

I was sure you were in the no soldering on boats camp You’re the reason I even knew Wagos exist.

It's rare but there are odd times when soldering is a good solution. Imagine how clunky this lot would look with Wagos:

 

[lustyd]

t's rare but there are odd times when soldering is a good solution. Imagine how clunky this lot would look with Wagos:

View attachment 211809

It would look like a lego mansion, a thing of beauty

 

[geem]

I use a gas powered soldering iron. Way faster to heat up than my two electric ones and stays hot. Actually, I dont know why I keep the electric ones. I never use them

 

[noelex]

Try a new good quality cartridge electric soldering iron. They are substantially better than previous electric options. As well as heating up very rapidly they can maintain a constant temperature with a high wattage and an almost immediately adjustment of the tip temperature if this falls above or below the ideal value. The gas-powered alternatives typically have no temperature control or ability to add extra heat when this is required.

There are some applications, such as the top of the mast, where electric options are not viable, but for everything else, the difference in performance is substantial.

 

[noelex]

Have a look at how this relatively small electric soldering iron can rapidly heat up and effectively solder on this substantial metal part. While performance like this is overkill for most marine applications, it illustrates how far modern soldering stations have developed providing you choose the right technology,

With the appropriate cartridges the same soldering station can tackle the finest, small and delicate electronic components while at all times maintaining perfect temperature control to avoid damage to sensitive components.

 

[requiem]

For those who might want to learn a bit more about how to solder, I suggest this playlist:

 

[geem]

Try a new good quality cartridge electric soldering iron. They are substantially better than previous electric options. As well as heating up very rapidly they can maintain a constant temperature with a high wattage and an almost immediately adjustment of the tip temperature if this falls above or below the ideal value. The gas-powered alternatives typically have no temperature control or ability to add extra heat when this is required.

There are some applications, such as the top of the mast, where electric options are not viable, but for everything else, the difference in performance is substantial.

I haven't found an application yet where my gas powered soldering iron hasn't worked perfectly

 

[Freebee]

another vote for gas power from me!

 

[ducked]

I was in that place "too small or too numb". Then someone good showed me how. You may know this and I can't explain here fully. But getting solder onto the soldering iron then onto the target, maintaining contact with the iron, increases heat transfer amazingly, only then offer up the solder wire. All in the blink of an eye. Something like that.

Having bought a few soldering irons my provisional conclusion is that I need to change the solderer.

 

[noelex]

Having bought a few soldering irons my provisional conclusion is that I need to change the solderer.

If you are struggling with soldering, make sure you are using good solder. This makes a huge difference.

Don’t use lead-free solder; it can be difficult to use. The best solder with lead is a 63/37 mix rather than the older, but still more commonly available 60/40 formulation (probably because it is slightly cheaper).

You also need a range of fluxes. Sometimes old wiring on a boat needs a reasonably aggressive flux, but this needs to be carefully removed afterwards, otherwise the joint will corrode in time. Even mild flux should be removed, although few bother.

The best solution is to buy a roll of good 63/37 with an inbuilt mild flux and also a tin of moderate and strong flux that can be added if needed. This is much cheaper than buying a range of solders with different fluxes.

 

[requiem]

The best solder with lead is a 63/37 mix rather than the older, but still more commonly available 60/40 formulation

60/40: solid below 183°C, liquid above 191°C, plastic in between.
63/37: a eutectic mixture, it transitions between solid and liquid at 183°C. Used when you can't ensure the parts won't be wiggled/jostled as the joint cools.

 

[noelex]

60/40: solid below 183°C, liquid above 191°C, plastic in between.
63/37: a eutectic mixture, it transitions between solid and liquid at 183°C. Used when you can't ensure the parts won't be wiggled/jostled as the joint cools.

Yes, exactly, this is the major advantage. The eutectic property ensures that if wires are nudged during the cooling process, it is less likely to produce a brittle, dull "cold solder joint".

This is particularly helpful on a yacht where components are not always as well supported, or as steady as they should be.

Some have also recommended 62/36/2 solder (the 2% is silver) as ideal for the marine environment, but I have not used this. The main thing is to make sure it is not lead free solder especially if you are a beginner.