Solar Panel Charge Issue

LONG_KEELER

LONG_KEELER

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Would be grateful for any guidance on the following:-

I have a small solar panel about 2'x1' . Although small, it has produced all I need for about 5 years.

Noticed the other day, that the Solar Control Box, was not showing the usual
green light which indicates batteries gaining a charge. The multimeter
indicated that at the battery, voltage was only 12.3v.

Today, I put the multimeter on the control box where it showed 0.2v on a fairly
overcast day. Does this indicate that the panel is Ok ? The other two connections on the controller (battery) showed zero volts.

I have checked all connections/fuses and they seem ok. Any ideas where to go next ?

Thanks in advance
 
You have done all the right things. Wait until you have some decent sunshine, then disconnect the panel from the charger and test the V with the panel at optimum orientation. If you don't get >15V (typically) then waggle all the connections inc the diodes, and check again. On earlier panels the architecture of the cells may mean that one break of wiring in the wrong place stops output.

If you are getting a decent open circuit voltage, offer the wires up to the charger and see what figures you get from the output. If nothing, then [perhaps the charger is caput My money is on a small break in the connectivity.
 
sarabande said:
You have done all the right things. Wait until you have some decent sunshine, then disconnect the panel from the charger and test the V with the panel at optimum orientation. If you don't get >15V (typically) then waggle all the connections inc the diodes, and check again. On earlier panels the architecture of the cells may mean that one break of wiring in the wrong place stops output.

If you are getting a decent open circuit voltage, offer the wires up to the charger and see what figures you get from the output. If nothing, then [perhaps the charger is caput My money is on a small break in the connectivity.
Click to expand...

Many Thanks. Will do.
 
PaulRainbow said:
This is incorrect. Testing at the battery terminals of the controller should give the battery voltage. Is there a fuse near the battery ? Blown ?
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul. That is very helpful.

The white wire from the controller box ( battery terminal ) connects to the master on/off terminal . I assume this enables current to flow from the controller even with the master switch is off. There is an inline fuse between which is ok. The whole controller box goes dead when the fuse is removed.

The negative (black) wire from the (battery terminal) controller goes to a common bus ? where many others congregate . There is no inline fuse.

I did not see any more fuses, but some may be hiding between the deadwood. I'll check a bit more.

Should I try running a new negative wire to see if that is causing the problem ?
 
LONG_KEELER said:
Thanks Paul. That is very helpful.

The white wire from the controller box ( battery terminal ) connects to the master on/off terminal . I assume this enables current to flow from the controller even with the master switch is off. There is an inline fuse between which is ok. The whole controller box goes dead when the fuse is removed.

The negative (black) wire from the (battery terminal) controller goes to a common bus ? where many others congregate . There is no inline fuse.

I did not see any more fuses, but some may be hiding between the deadwood. I'll check a bit more.

Should I try running a new negative wire to see if that is causing the problem ?
Click to expand...

Sounds a little odd that there is no voltage reading, yet the controller goes dead with the fuse removed.

Double check the reading at the battery terminals of the controller, they should match the battery (or pretty close if there's a little voltage drop).

If not, you can use the positive at the controller and a negative direct to the battery or busbar to rule out the negative. If it's more convenient, a temporary wire would do fine. You can do the same to double check the positive too, if need be.
 
PaulRainbow said:
Sounds a little odd that there is no voltage reading, yet the controller goes dead with the fuse removed.

Double check the reading at the battery terminals of the controller, they should match the battery (or pretty close if there's a little voltage drop).

If not, you can use the positive at the controller and a negative direct to the battery or busbar to rule out the negative. If it's more convenient, a temporary wire would do fine. You can do the same to double check the positive too, if need be.
Click to expand...

Thanks very much. Will do as advised.

Will report back as soon as I can get out to my mooring.
 
Just an update.

Unfortunately I misread the multimeter reading on the solar controller as nil, when it was accurately recording the correct voltage of the battery bank.

Working backwards to the solar panel, the problem turned out to be a failing junction box on the solar panel itself . The wire connection had broken down along with the terminal.

I have paid a bit more this time for a replacement panel with more robust wire and fittings.

Many thanks for all the help offered.
 
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