small outboard flywheel removal/devon

[blue_anchor]

have a problem getting hold of a puller to check the coils on my johnson..according to mastertech,you can use a car<<steering wheel puller>>,well,maybe in the states(tried to get one here),and the type with external hooks cant be used(can distort the flywheel)..the original omc puller is hellishly expensive,probably to discourage home maintenance!,any ideas /help welcomed

 

[chippie]

There may be threaded holes on top of the flywheel which you can run a couple of bolts into through a piece of scrap steel and use a hired or el cheapo puller against. Failing that, I have managed to do this by undoing the nut that holds the flywheel and then leaving the nut on but loose, carefully pry with a heavy screwdriver each side (be sure what you are levering against is strong enough); get a helper to give the centre of the shaft a sharp tap with a fairly heavy hammer. The idea of leaving the nut on is so that it cleans any burrs made on its way off.
This is definitley a desperation technique where care is required.

Good Luck.

 

[andyball]

I know it wasn't what you asked, but why do you need to remove the flywheel to "check the coils" ?. Do you suspect a broken wire?.

 

[JimMcMillan]

Easy.Take flywheel nut off,remove spring washer from underneath,replace nut untill shaft is just proud,wrap arm and hand round the flywheel and take some weight(try to lift the engine)and hit it a solid smack with a 3lb engineers hammer you must hit the shaft bang on hitting the nut wont do.The flywheel will lift off.No kidding!!

 

[Col]

I would use a brass or aluminium drift, if trying this method, otherwise you might "bruise" or "mushroom" the threads/end of crank.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.arweb.co.uk/argallery/colspics> Cols Picture Album</A>

 

[JimMcMillan]

No use.Got to be a direct bang.

 

[blue_anchor]

thanks all,reason is no spark,and the points live there..!

 

[charles_reed]

An old trick this but it works a treat on props.

Get the flywheel inverted and nut off, using a a 7lb lump hammer as striken hit the circumference of the flywheel in line with the key really hard but sharply.

Usually the object will fall off the taper.

Two problems:
1. If the object has a crack it will come off in two halves
2. If you hit too hard, or insufficiently sharply, you'll distort the flywheel.

I got the flywheel of my 1.5hp mercury (a truly ghastly engine comparable to a recidivist Seagull) off like that and have never (not yet) had to use a puller on any props I've taken off.

 

[BarryH]

Bugger you lot getting near my engine with yer lump hammers and hanging the thing upside down. I can see your wives xmas pressies under the trees now. All nicely wrapped willow shafts with 8lbs of cast metal on one end!!

The bloke who mentioned the holes was the nearest. Most of the early johnsons have 2 threaded holes in the center boss. Tack the strip of scrap metal, drill holes in it to take the bolts into the flywheel. Mark where the end of the crank is and drill another hole. Take another nut and bolt and put it thru the middle hole. Bolt the hole thing to the fly wheel and do up the center nut and bolt. The fly wheel will resist it for a turn or so then come off with no bending banging distorting or shagging of bearings.

Just one other thing. The points can be sourced from some early jap bikes. My old 20 horse mariner, and 25 horse johnson used points that were used in Kawasaki KH250 2 srokes. Half the cost of OMC points.

OK, to hell with it. Unbolt it and we'll use it as an anchor!