Slipping mainsheet cleat.

graham

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I have a barton mainsheet block with a cam cleat on my Centaur.

Block is fine but the plastic cams in the cleat are worn allowing the sheet to slip under load.

Anyone know if replacement cams are available? They are beyond being able to file new grooves into them.
 

William_H

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I can't imagine the cams are ebyond having grooves improved. However the cams would be the same as any same manufacturer cam cleat. Cams should be easily removed and replaced. Of course a new main sheet (rope) might improve the situation. ol'will
 

VicS

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I have a barton mainsheet block with a cam cleat on my Centaur.

Block is fine but the plastic cams in the cleat are worn allowing the sheet to slip under load.

Anyone know if replacement cams are available? They are beyond being able to file new grooves into them.
No mention of replacement cams on Barton's website but perhaps the entire cam cleat assembly can be replaced or a new one used as a source of parts ( 3 sizes to choose from)

1711874052433.png
 

wombat88

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In the past I have have had some success sharpening the teeth with a file. Of course it works best with Tufnol but I have done it with plastic. Rather satisfying.
 

B27

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It's worth having a good cleat on the main.
I swapped to a Harken one.
Easier to cleat and uncleat due to ball-bearings and lighter springs, hard anodised jaws that last a long time.
Expensive ,but I had a spare from an old dinghy.

Other brands offer products similar.
 

fredrussell

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I had same problem- Barton cam jaws are made of cheese. I replaced mine with Harken cam cleat with the aluminium jaws. Not exactly the same mounting hole centres, but close enough.
 

Bodach na mara

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I just got a shock when I looked at the price of new ones. I think that I still have several of them that came off broken up sailing dinghies. Must have a rake around and put them on the For Sale forum.
 

thinwater

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I have a barton mainsheet block with a cam cleat on my Centaur.

Block is fine but the plastic cams in the cleat are worn allowing the sheet to slip under load.

Anyone know if replacement cams are available? They are beyond being able to file new grooves into them.
It could also be that you need one more turn on the winch. The cam is only intended to hold the hand tailing load, not the sheet load. Peolpe make this mistake with self-tailers all the time. Not enough turns.

The winch drum may also have become slippery over time, requiring more turns. Re-texturing drums or using different line is a whole different thread.

But yes, the cams are ancient, and there is a point when saving money is pound wise, penny foolish, and potentially unsafe. Re-filing groves is one of these.

And obviously, if you have re-filed groves multiple times you have changed the geometry of the cam. The cam is now too small.
 

Boathook

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No mention of replacement cams on Barton's website but perhaps the entire cam cleat assembly can be replaced or a new one used as a source of parts ( 3 sizes to choose from)

View attachment 174773
I've adjusted mounts on block systems in the past to take replacement cam cleats. I had to bend the mounts on the tackle bit in a vice to suit, and enlarge the mount holes. If you bend the mounts make sure that they don't bind on the pulley, etc.
 

graham

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Thanks for all the advice. Badly worn as you can see but grooves filed in and back in action for now at least.20240401_123946.jpg
 

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graham

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Hole spacing is 42mm but Im sure a bit of adapting could be done to make it fit.Cheers.
 

B27

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If you're pulling the main in through the cleat all the time, you can get cam cleats with SS jaws from China for under £15.

Alternatively, new jaws can be 3D printed in carbon fibre filament?

A ratchet block might mean you use the cleat a lot less and be kinder on the rope as well as the cleat jaws?

I got a nice Harken ratchet cleat block on ebay for sensible money.
 
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