SL Hyspeed questions

Iain C

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I bought an SL Hypspeed from a boat jumble at the weekend (£10), and I am in the process of bringing it back to life. I think that all it needs is new chains. Questions as follows:

1-as a cyclist I have plenty old chains and the riveting tool. Is there any reason why I can't just use one of these and save myself a few quid? Has anyone tried it?

2-the stripper...I guess this "peels" the chain from the unloaded side of the gypsy. Mine is missing...is it really nesessary? Has anyone used a substitute? Wood/nylon or even a piece of plastic pipe all spring to mind...

3-the handle is missing too. Easy fix...just a piece of bar, but how long? If I put too long a handle on it, do I risk putting too much load into it?

Thanks!
 

pvb

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1-as a cyclist I have plenty old chains and the riveting tool. Is there any reason why I can't just use one of these and save myself a few quid? Has anyone tried it?

The chains and ratchet sprockets are standard cycle items. I fixed mine years ago with bits from the local bike shop.
 

Iain C

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Ratchet sprockets too? That's interesting. If so, I will replace those whilst I'm at it, as it will be a few quid from a bike shop I guess!

Thanks!

(Anyone got any info on the stripper?)
 

chrisedwards

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mine only works on the backwards stroke and "freewheels" when pushing the handle forwards. Is this normal for some SLs? I would really like to make it faster.
 

Billjratt

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The stripper, as I remember, came as part of the hawse tube guide -ie an eye the chain went down through, with a triangle attached vertically. It was made of cast iron and needs to be strong in case of jams - so plastic won't last I'm afraid.
The handle should allow you to stand comfortably and work the windlass - too short and you'll stoop, too long and you'll have a huge arc to stretch.
( a long one can be handy to reach down and "stir" the chain if it piles up in the locker) The windlass won't be hurt by either unless the chain is jammed at the stripper.
You've got a great piece of gear there, which will outlast you as long as it's treated to the right lubrication. The sprockets were standard 18t if I recall, and strongly recommended for replacement while you're in there. I had the paperwork for this device somewhere (with a parts breakdown) if you're interested.
 

rhumlady

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The chain and sprockets are 18 tooth. If you are only going in one direction then one of the sprockets is probably knackered. Stripping these down is a bit of a pain and I would recommend photo's at regular intervals as you go along. You need to get the gypsy off as well as the cone it sits on which is held in place by a roll pin I believe. You will also need to remove the rope drum. I think you will find the worst paqrt is removing the sprockets which will have tightened up with use. a local engineer may be the best option but I did manage with very carefull use of an angle grinder:eek: The new ones go back on the same way round as the chains go around in opposite directions .
Once I had mine stripped down I took the carcase to a local poweder coating place and got them to prepare it and recoat it in white.

Hope that helps.
 

ianabc

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sl highspeed

Bought mine used.
Took it apart and filled the bottom with grease (after cleaning with diesel fuel/kerosene)
Made a new gasket out of cork
Had the handle lengthened at a welding shop so that I do not bend my back when using the lever. ( SS pipe added to the end byhydraul compressing the pipe around the handle)

Had new short handle made for the gypsy/locking socket

Had sparee handle made from aluminium
 

Iain C

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Rebuild is going well, thansk for the advice. Bike freewheels are fine (although the old ones had to be removed, very carefully, with the angle grinder!) but the new bike chain was not quite right...the pins on the originals are a larger diameter, making the end links tricky. One of the cover screws would not budge and the impact driver just broke it unfortunatley. I will drill and re-tap it.

WRT powder coating, how have people done this? Presumably, you need to keep all the mating surfaces clear? How much does it cost? TBH I'm tempted to just use Smoothrite...
 

rhumlady

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When I got mine powder coated the guys who did it masked off any mating surfaces for me and the cost at the time (8 years ago) was arounf £30.00.
 
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