Singler handed lock techniques

[Mikadi]

Many thanks to all for the info.
The boat is a motor cruiser 9 meters LOA, single engine with bow thruster. The cruising ground is maily the river Thames.

 

[bedouin]

Well - the River Thames is comparatively easy because all the locks are manned, and the locks are nice and big (and not too deep).

Get plenty of fenders out on both sides before entering the lock - then motor in slowly and step ashore with your line(s). You can use the bow line to surge of the last of the way.

You will need lines on both bow and stern - or a single line connecting the two as I've previously suggested. A centre cleat may be useful - especially if the boat has straight sides - but don't be tempted to try to hold the boat on a single line for any time.

Before the lock starts to fill/empty make sure you have a firm hold of the warp; if there are bollards then take a turn round for both lines; if there are rings then make sure the line to the boat goes UNDER the ring otherwise the load on the warp can trap the end between the ring and the lock side, causing major problems. Under no circumstances should you make off the warps while the lock is filling/emptying - stand there and hold both. Beware the forces on the warps can be very strong.

On the thames of course you often have to park up in the layby while waiting for the lock. That is much like entering the lock in terms of technique. Here it is okay to make the warps off, but do make sure you are securely attached. Especially if you are moored close to the bottom lock gates when the lock is emptying the turbulence caused by the water flowing out can be tremendous.

Lastly - beware of the side weirs - on some locks these enter just by the bottom gates and can cause strong cross currents just when you are trying to carry out a delicate manoeuvre. Watch the surface of the river for indications of the current and make plenty of allowance.

 

[boatone]

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[kingfisher]

On a spring

Attach fenders all around.

In this scenario, we are assuming that your propwalk in reverse drags the transom to starboard, so you'll make your landing to starboard.

Attach a long line on the midship or front cleat by both ends, thus creating a bight. The lenght of the bight should be at least equal to LOA. Make sure that it won't snag, and have the bight in the cockpit.

As you pass the bollard at dead ahead slow, put bigt over bollard, by hand or by hook. Stop the boat. Put rudder to port and put the engine in tickover. By controlling the rudder angle and the revs, you can control your position.

Same technique is used by river barges in the Low Countries.

Some remarks:
1) Sometimes running your engine is not allowed in the lock.
2) If you're lying behind a barge/fisher boat/something large, forget this technique, or find a different location: when the big boy in front of you gets going, his propwash will slam you against the wall.
3) Nobody can raft up to you.

I usualy use this technique untill the doors are closed, and then I get som other ropes to secure the boat.


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