oakleyb
Well-Known Member
Does anybody have easy to follow drawings on how to create single line reefing
Single line reefing
- Thread starter oakleyb
- Start date
maxi
Well-Known Member
For my money, I would opt for a twin line system. Friction makes reefing, and especially shaking out a reef, too difficult with a single line system.
Sorry, not what you wanted to hear.
Sorry, not what you wanted to hear.
aluijten
Well-Known Member
Depends on your current rig. If you have a recent Seldén boom, it might be limited to buying the missing stuff.
Be advised that single line reefing is no holy grail. We have it on our boat, but I feel it as a mixed blessing. Make sure you use thin lines (dyneema is good and expensive.)
I think there is a document on the Seldén site wich explains the system to a certain extent.
Arno
Be advised that single line reefing is no holy grail. We have it on our boat, but I feel it as a mixed blessing. Make sure you use thin lines (dyneema is good and expensive.)
I think there is a document on the Seldén site wich explains the system to a certain extent.
Arno
EdWingfield
Well-Known Member
Fully agree with maxi - don't go there!
I've changed my SL system to a 2 line system as I could not get enough tension on the clew due to friction losses. The reefed sail had the shape of a bag.
I've changed my SL system to a 2 line system as I could not get enough tension on the clew due to friction losses. The reefed sail had the shape of a bag.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I have used DIY single line reefing for many years, on two different boats, and have yet to have a single problem with it. I have written it up with a diagram here and you can see another site with a very similar arrangement here.
IMHO those who have problems with their systems do not have it set up correctly. Mine uses 10 mm braid-on-braid which I am just about to change for 8 mm Dyneema. The friction caused by the thicker rope is a small problem on shaking out the reefs but poses no problems at all when taking one in.
IMHO those who have problems with their systems do not have it set up correctly. Mine uses 10 mm braid-on-braid which I am just about to change for 8 mm Dyneema. The friction caused by the thicker rope is a small problem on shaking out the reefs but poses no problems at all when taking one in.
flaming
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I have used DIY single line reefing for many years, on two different boats, and have yet to have a single problem with it. I have written it up with a diagram here and you can see another site with a very similar arrangement here.
IMHO those who have problems with their systems do not have it set up correctly. Mine uses 10 mm braid-on-braid which I am just about to change for 8 mm Dyneema. The friction caused by the thicker rope is a small problem on shaking out the reefs but poses no problems at all when taking one in.
[/ QUOTE ]
Your second link is how I've always had it rigged, and how I would recommend it. Never had a problem, sure there's a lot or rope to pull through but fitting good quality ball race blocks seems to solve that problem. I've never liked the idea of blocks inside the boom, that just sounds like a nightmare if you ever have to redo it and the block is out of sight so you won't know if it fails and starts pulling lots of friction into the system.
I have used DIY single line reefing for many years, on two different boats, and have yet to have a single problem with it. I have written it up with a diagram here and you can see another site with a very similar arrangement here.
IMHO those who have problems with their systems do not have it set up correctly. Mine uses 10 mm braid-on-braid which I am just about to change for 8 mm Dyneema. The friction caused by the thicker rope is a small problem on shaking out the reefs but poses no problems at all when taking one in.
[/ QUOTE ]
Your second link is how I've always had it rigged, and how I would recommend it. Never had a problem, sure there's a lot or rope to pull through but fitting good quality ball race blocks seems to solve that problem. I've never liked the idea of blocks inside the boom, that just sounds like a nightmare if you ever have to redo it and the block is out of sight so you won't know if it fails and starts pulling lots of friction into the system.
earlybird
Well-Known Member
I have a standard Selden SL reefing system. Taking in a reef is fine, no real problem with sail foot tension, with a bit of winching. Taking out a reef always requires a trip to the mast to pull out the tack line. On balance, the ease of taking in a reef makes it considerably better than 2 line reefing IMO.
AliM
Well-Known Member
Do you have a drawing for two-line reefing, where both (or both lines spliced together to one tail) come back to the cockpit? I have a standard slab reefing system at present - leech line + rams horns at the mast, which works very well, but I'd like to consider a reefing system such that I didn't have to struggle to the mast.
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
Try this.
I've got in on the 1st reef (of 4) of a fully battened 32M2 mainsail I single-hand in the Med.
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/reefing.php
I've got in on the 1st reef (of 4) of a fully battened 32M2 mainsail I single-hand in the Med.
http://www.harken.com/rigtips/reefing.php
AliM
Well-Known Member
Thanks, exactly what I wanted
Ali
Ali
beneteau_305_553
Well-Known Member
Just adding the second line at the tack instead of the rams horns works really well and requieres very little modification. If they are on clutches next to each other you can pull in both lines together then tighten each one individually to the desired tension. Shaking them out is easy. Just let both reef lines go and take up on the halyard.
Adding a downhaul also helps so that when the sail is taken right down the downhaul can be used to get the head of the sail right down to the gooseneck. The halyard can then be tightened to get rid of the slack. You just need then to tie the sail to the boom
I tried single line system but it always seemed to get jammed up with the sail.
The dual line system on both first and second reefs is simplest and best IMO.
Adding a downhaul also helps so that when the sail is taken right down the downhaul can be used to get the head of the sail right down to the gooseneck. The halyard can then be tightened to get rid of the slack. You just need then to tie the sail to the boom
I tried single line system but it always seemed to get jammed up with the sail.
The dual line system on both first and second reefs is simplest and best IMO.
charles_reed
Well-Known Member
What I forgot to mention
is the modification to the single-line layout, that I've made for a very large sail - that is to use two of the largest Harken Airlite blocks instead of putting the line through the reef-cringles in the sail.
The reduction in frictional resistance is enormous.
In fact it is possible to put the reef in without using the winch, even off the wind.
It's been so successful that I've just changed to the same system on the 2nd reef.
An alternative to the standard cringle can be seen on the Rutgerson site - with a built-in mini-roller, though I've doubts about how effective such a small diameter might prove in practice.
The two blocks are each mounted on short lengths of tape with sufficiently oversize (I've used 28mm)SS rings to not pull through the cringle.
is the modification to the single-line layout, that I've made for a very large sail - that is to use two of the largest Harken Airlite blocks instead of putting the line through the reef-cringles in the sail.
The reduction in frictional resistance is enormous.
In fact it is possible to put the reef in without using the winch, even off the wind.
It's been so successful that I've just changed to the same system on the 2nd reef.
An alternative to the standard cringle can be seen on the Rutgerson site - with a built-in mini-roller, though I've doubts about how effective such a small diameter might prove in practice.
The two blocks are each mounted on short lengths of tape with sufficiently oversize (I've used 28mm)SS rings to not pull through the cringle.