No law says you have to pick up a buoy from the bow. So bring a warp back from the bow to the cockpit on each side. Then sail up to get the buoy under the quarter, lean out and hook on, then go forward and as the boat drifts back shorten up the warp until the buoy is under the bow. Then you can rig a mooring strop as normal.
Kwister Tens method plus making sure that you have remembered not do some form of riding hitch around the guardrails and pulpit.
The windage on Claymore can be a tricky factor so you just have to be nipping smartish from when you have picked up the strop or threaded one through a mooring otherwise you end up with a third testicle as the full weight of the boat makes its presence felt. The shrouds seem to present another hazard - I wonder if they really are necessary sometimes.
I just go up to the buoy, overun by about four feet, rush forward, pick up the PU buoy with a boathook and drag the buoy chain over the roller and round the cleat. Don't do it under sail - have not got enough control as the stream can be quite strong
If you're doing it under sail, make sure you only have one up. Which one depends on the wind & tide. I seem to remember YM doing a series about this, which covered it much better than I could.
Try to come in at an angle, using the shore as a transit. It makes it easier to keep a straight line, and to tell if you'll make it.
I tend to stop the bow by the bouy if there isn't too much drift from wind and/or tide. Otherwise, tie on as you go (slowly) past.
Because the essence of the operation is that the boat stops with the buoy in a convenient place for picking it up, you always have time to amble forward along the side decks to wherever you think the buoy is, see if you are right, and act accordingly. When the bpat is stopped there is no need to hang onto the tiller.
I disagree with the "have one sail up only" approach. You may miss, and need to get command of your vessel pretty smartly in case you hit something. This can be inpossible with a single sail.
Having a gaff cutter, I drop the staysail to leave the foredeck clear, set up the topping lift and have the halyards clear to run with coils capsized on the deck. the jib being on a Wykeham Martin gear disappears instantly with a pull on the furling line (don't try this with a roller reefing job!)
The easiest case is light wind over tide, where you can gradually reduce sail as you approach - fortunately on the East coast in the English summer this is also a common case when a dying seabreeze wafts you up over start (in the case of neaps) of the ebb or the end (in the case of springs) of the ebb on Sunday evening!
Wind and tide together - luff into them. Practise first to know how much way she will carry in the conditions.
Practical method, but be careful when picking up aft of the beam. Boat will pivot around the bouy & can sometimes ride over it, spoiling your day if it gets caught up underneat on rudder or drive gear.