Single Handed Heros

[paulskent]

Before you start I am not knocking anybody here !! Just need help..

I am reasonably new to big boats...

I have done all the courses and bits and am getting better at handling my boat and the weather.

I would like to do a bit of single handed stuff... The boat is set up for it and I am working at familiarising myself with all the bits and how to tack the autohelm and then pull the right sheets, strings whatever to get the thing going in the right direction. Been doing that for years in smaller boats.

However, to me, single handed would be getting up in the morning, going down to the boat, casting off getting out and doing the crusing bit and the (and here is where I struggle) getting the boat back on the dock again.

Now when our Hero did this, extra hands came on board to do the final docking and I presume they mopped down the boat and stuff and cleaned the heads/bucket and cooker afterwards.

I can't for the life of me work out how I am going to get the boat into the dock, jump over the side with a line, get back on before the bow starts to sneak back out again to do all the jiggling to bring the thing back alnongside etc etc etc..

Does anyone else have this problem or is true singlehanding (in and out of the pontoon) a no no. I know it's possible with a swinging mooring I, in fact I have done it myself) but I can't work out a strategy for an alongsided pontoon. ??

Any suggestions ?
PK.

 

[Woodentop]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

Use a midships spring to moor.

Better still -move the boat out of the expensive marina and use a swinging mooring.

 

[wishbone]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

Hi Paul, saw this done forward and aft mooring lines led to cockpit outside everything, motored up leaned over dropped forward line (bowline) over cleat motored up a bit and led aft line thorough… but he had used this method at the same pontoon for some time.. once secure, went onto pontoon and secured warps to cleat fore and aft…hope this helps.. I do have some old mags saved somewhere that gives different examples, I seem to remember he used the boat hook for the forward line….depends on the size of freeboard.. it’s the method I will adopt, all depends on the pontoon…I tried it in the BVI’s on an exposed jetty, before I could get to the aft warp the bloody wind blew me off, got a couple of laughs from the Bitter End Club mob! Ah! Yes left engine in gear ticking over springing forward warp……….

 

[Mirelle]

There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worth doing

as messing about in a boat singlehanded.

Woodentop's succint advice is spot on.

Ideally, fit a cleat midships. Failing that, if your boat has something that a warp can be belayed on, amidships, such as a headsail sheet turning block on a track, in a modern boat, or a kevel inside the bulwark on an antique like mine, that will do.

Try to belay your first ashore warp at the point where the boat moves sideways when you pull on the rope. have bow and stern warps ready. Step of the boat with the midships warp in your hand and belay it, then tidy up.

Swinging mooring is cheaper and better in every way.

 

[FullCircle]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

Paul,
firstly, try singlehanded mooring with a crew of 2 or 3 first! They can help you or laugh at inappropriate moments, and come swiftly to your aid when it starts going T*ts Up. Place one of them on the main pontoon, and keep the other on board. The try to do it all yourself.

For the purposes of simplicity, and in my case sensible precaution, try the following.

Start planning a long way out. With a bit of searoom, attach the fenders (both sides) and have bow and stern warps that are approx the length of the boat. Lead these to the centre of the boat outside of everything else, or where it is easiest to hop over the guardrail, probably at max beam. I do this for both sides. Also attach and lead the fore and aft springs to the centre, and leave coiled for later.
If you are lucky enough to have mid ship cleats, have a 5m warp on this too (emergency).

I set up the boat both sides with fenders and warps, so that if I cant get into the berth/pontoon I had planned then I can go elsewhere without the full hassle of trying to resetup the fenders etc in a restricted space.

Go in slowly for a trial run. If there is a fair bit of breeze, see what it does to you near where you want to moor into. You will need then to edge in at the optimum angle (if possible) to reduce windage (which as you rightly point out, takes the bows or stern away). If it is a tidal marina with flow, also see what happens and adjust.
Check to see what mooring rings/cleats/bollards there are, and where.

If it is looking very tricky, don't do it. Get on the radio and ask for assistance on the pontoon.

Just have enough speed to stem the wind/tide, usually less than a knot when you do the last 15m. Tricky if you dont have much steerage (won't work well with a Mobo). Fetch it up alongside as near as possible on the same angle as the pontoon. If you have to do a lurching last minute turn, it will affect the outcome. As you approach, kick it into reverse and blip the throttle to bring it ALMOST to a standstill. Try not to let the bows go off as they are the most difficult to recover. If the stern goes out, you may be able to motor it back into place with the bows secured and the wheel hard over.Then centre the wheel, and move quickly to the point where the lines are, and hop off. Immediately tie bow off to wherever you can, then go to the next and secure the stern. Keep hold of the stern warp. This is why they should be long.
Now you can shorten each until the boat is near to the pontoon. Start the normal process of attaching springs, which you should be able to reach through the guardrails.

It isn't as easy as that, but practice when there is a fair bit of empty pontoon around, without actually landing. You will still get in a mess occasionally. It happens.
Practice while the boat is still moored on the pontoon, and do dry runs, getting used to the sequence.

Its still hard work with a boat with as much freeboard as we have. Try not to give yourself a heart attack by heaving 6 tons of boat on a free line. Use all the mechanical advantage you can.


Jim

 

[graham]

Re: Preparation is the only secret.

Some good advise in the posts above.The midships cleat to attatch a spring to will certainly help. Make up a dedicated line for it exactly the right lenghth so you drop the eye splice over a cleat as you motor slowly into the berth,

as the weight comes on motor very gently ahead to keep weight on it and it will keep you alongside while you sort out the bow and stern lines which will be all ready cleated to the boat and led outside the shrouds back to the cockpit so you step neatly ashore with both in your hand.

Have lots of fenders both sides to minimize damage should it not go perfectly then practice over and over again untill you are confident.

It also helps to know if your propeller is right or left handed.A touch of astern power with a right hand prop will fetch the stern to port and visa versa generally with a right hand (most common)prop people prefer a port side too berth.

 

[Sea Devil]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

Everything Jim says makes sense - I have nearly always singlehanded and it really is not too difficult - just needs some practice and preparation.

Also as Jim says - practice - practice in calm conditions with little tide then move up to more challenging situations....

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jump over the side with a line
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I have my lines to hand near the cockpit so I can throw the head and stern lines over at the same time and take the midships line with me (if there is a shore cleat to attach it to) once you have the head and stern lines on the pontoon or finger then you can attach them and work from the pontoon at getting her closer..

 

[Guest]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

The other important thing is: at least for the first few times make sure that you have a downwind berth to moor into. That way, even if you fumble for a bit, the boat isn't going anywhere in the meantime.

Also, wind from ahead is easy, provided you slightly angle the bow into the pontoon as you approach, so the wind has a tendency to push the bows into the pontoon. Then secure the bows promptly and take your time over the stern. Wind from astern is the next most tricky, but is OK provided you use a midships warp secured promptly, then do stern warp to stop stern swinging out. Then take as long as you want over the bow. Wind off pontoon is the trickiest (just like when fully crewed) - try to avoid where posible, but if you can't avoid it, fender the leeward side well and use a mid ship line as fast as possible, followed by bow quickly afterwards.

I actually often find mooring singlehanded easier than mooring with a crew - with a crew there is so much more opportunity to mess it up through mis-communication. Ditto with knobs on for well-meaning helpers on the shore.

 

[Talbot]

I have this problem in spades. I frequently singlehand my cat. if the wind is off the pontoon, this used to be a bit of a nightmare. However I now use a http://www.boscoboathook.co.uk/wireloop/ and the combination of the wireloop to drop over the cleat on the jetty whilst standing in the cockpit, plus the engine staying in gear makes securing alongside a doddle (providing I dont mess up the manoeuvre alongside of course!)

 

[paulskent]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

All

thanks very much for all the suggestions.

Jim..

Shouldn't you bet getting that mast up ??

I think I should have given a little more info (or the correct info).

This is the berth

I need to come in stern-to. And I don't currently have a mid-ships cleat. I can get the port corner into the right place with out much trouble it's getting the rest of the boat alongside that I have had probs with so far. I think the plan will be to get a loop over a cleat and onto the port stern cleat and then motor forward to bring the front in. I may try one of those self cleating poles if the lassooing proves problematic.

Will this work ?

 

[milltech]

Re: Preparation is the only secret.

That's exactly what I did. Lots of thinking and contemplating the final approach and when you've got it in your mind go for it exactly as planned. In my experience it only went wrong when I decided on a change of plan halfway through.

One other small point is that once the slack has been taken up by the spring hold tight for a minute or two driving slowly against it. Depending on the wind direction some rudder angle change may be required to keep you snug on the berth, when happy get off with your lines. The other point is to use all your fenders, the worst thing that can happen is to nudge your neighbour, never try to power your way out of trouble, if it goes wrong lie back and put up with it!

My current boat has a bow thruster which make the whole process a lot easier.

 

[milltech]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

Sorry I didn't read all the posts first. If you're currentlyout of the water installing a bow thruster for this season will solve all your problems. I run an ex RNLI lifeboat, they are notorious for poor handling, whenever possible I come in astern and use the bow thruster both to steer and bring the bow up alongside. Works like a dream - touch wood!

 

[jimi]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

depending on the wind reversing in on the 331 should be a doddle, drop the helmsmans seat, undo wire guard, big bouncy fender over stern, warp on stern port cleat then trickle ahead, Bobs your uncle, Only problem would be wind from ahead or strong on portside when I'd be tempted to go bows in with a measured warp from midships ready to drop over cleat on the pontoon (drop the sprayhood to reduce windage in very gusty conditions).

 

[jonjo]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

[ QUOTE ]
And I don't currently have a mid-ships cleat.

[/ QUOTE ]
You might find the metal backing plate was moulded in even though the mid-cleat option was not ticked on the original order. If so it makes retro fitting a doddle.

 

[Guest]

Re: Single Handed Hero\'s

No Captain can do very wrong if he puts his ship alongside that of his enemy...

... no matter whether he goes ahead or astern. The only tricky situation is with wind from port side. Beware hopping-onto-pontoon-only-to-discover-boat-being-blown-out-into-middle-of-harbour syndrome. Bosco-type boathook is a good idea as it leaves you on board, but don't try using at both bows and stern - you'll only have time for one, and it has to be midships. If attaching to a cleat you will need the wire loop accessory. Finding some kind of midships attachment point will make life easier. Otherwise, whichever you attach first, bows or stern (whether with boathook or by hopping over the side), the other will be blown away before you get there.

 

[jonjo]

Re: Fixed loop on the pontoon

I have seen another system used to help berth a heavy Tyler Slipper 42 with a two handed crew.

A mooring line is left fixed to the fore and aft pontoon cleats and partway along this is a large loop sheeved in plastic hosing to maintain its shape. The loop can be be hooked at a distance with a boathook and pulled on board.

I saw this setup in a small private marina so am I not sure how the big operators will tolerate such pontoon customizations.

 

[jonjo]

Re: Preparation is the only secret.

[ QUOTE ]
never try to power your way out of trouble, if it goes wrong lie back and put up with it!

[/ QUOTE ]
Indeed, I am surprised this advice is not seen in print more often.

 

[Ships_Cat]

Re: Fixed loop on the pontoon

We do something similar JonJo with a 12 tonne boat on our home berth (which has rings, not cleats, so nothing to hook over, and doesn't have a centre one either).

I leave the dock side bow and stern lines tied together with a long piece of smaller diameter polypropylene rope. At the entry end of the berth we have a pile on the pontoon and just hook one end up on that so that as come into the berth can pick it off by hand (or with boathook ready in case a bit far off). This gives both the stern and bow lines to hand and fastened ashore without leaving the boat - if need to pin the boat quickly I take the stern line to the boat's midships cleat and power forward as others say. But the stern line from the end of the pontoon to midships does mean one has to have quite a long spring to avoid the boat hanging out too much over the outer end of the dock.

I have seen others do this without having the convenient pile, but have had a little stand at the entrance to the berth to hang the line onto instead. One of those was an oldish fellow who sailed alone in an around 60 foot boat.

I do not sail alone, my wife is always with me, but I find that with this setup I can drive the boat in and get the lines myself when necessary.

John

 

[jonjo]

Re: Bow or stern first

I am following this thread with regard to requesting an ideal single handers pontoon finger. There seem to be 4 factors:

* Bow or stern first.
* Prevailing wind direction.
* Prop kick.
* Direction of arrival.

From what I have read so far it seems a stern first approach allows for more creative cleat hooking. Is this the consensus?

By "direction of arrival" I mean, having motored past the berth and engaged reverse should the pontoon finger end or the adjacent boat be on the inside of the reversing arc?

 

[mirabriani]

Re: Bow or stern first

Good advice here. so I would say all of the above.
Just three more things
Practice, practice and practice.
My b in law as a teenager had got it off to a fine art
Big Macwester into Chichester, no hesitation, no help from mum and dad
right alongside and nonchalantly step off and attend to the moorings.
Bl##dy teenagers!

Regards Briani