Sing "Ho!" for the centre drill or "Why are my stanchions hollow?"

[Boo2]

Sing "Ho!" for the centre drill or "Why are my stanchions hollow?"

Trying to fit new guardwires yesterday I found that the pre-made ends wouldn't pass through one of the stanchion holes. The other stanchions were fine but this one had some kind of eyelet fitted that would only pass 8mm and the guardwire end is 9.5mm Whatever the eyelet was made of it was b*start hard : attempts with a 10mm hss drill and a long section TiN plated step drill failed to make any impression at all but turning in desperation to a 10mm centre drill immediately succeeded in drilling out the eyelet. Hurray !

On closer inspection the stanchion turned out to be hollow which I wasn't expecting at all. How on earth do they make them ? They seem too long to be spun, have no visible seams and don't on the face of it look like they're cast. Anyway I'm going to have to replace this one because there is now a path for water to accumulate inside it and possibly soak through into the deck core viat the retaining bolt.

Boo2

 

[knuterikt]

To save weight
Tube has got more strength than same weight massive rod.

 

[Plevier]

Look carefully inside and I think you will see a seam weld - they are rolled. At least my one that got b******d in the winds last week is.
What sort of deck attachment have you got?
Barnes have various lengths in stock but no good for me as ID wrong - mine go over a male spigot not into a socket.
See http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?426744-Replacement-stanchion-problem
Mike

 

[alahol2]

Anyway I'm going to have to replace this one because there is now a path for water to accumulate inside it and possibly soak through into the deck core viat the retaining bolt.

Can't you work some epoxy putty into the hole to block it as a waterway? Take it to a local engineer and get them to rivet in a new, suitably sized, ferrule?

 

[Adamastor]

Been down the same road as Boo2. I discovered that the hole can be stretched, because that's how they make the top eye in the first place, apparently!
We used the shank part of a 10mm bolt, but ground the section into an oval. The wire end had a clevis that was obviously wide and flat, so when I pressed the 0-shaped stainless broach through the o-shaped hole, the hole actually stretched oval. The judicious application of some lanocoat to the broach meant that the pressing operation could be done with a minimum of bother using a bench vise and a block of soft wood to protect the stanchion.
it also meant that my (rough as a bear's buttocks) customer thought that I could do miracles, and thereafter insisted on using our brand of stanchions for which he was prepared to pay a premium!

 

[Boo2]

Look carefully inside and I think you will see a seam weld - they are rolled. At least my one that got b******d in the winds last week is.
What sort of deck attachment have you got?
Barnes have various lengths in stock but no good for me as ID wrong - mine go over a male spigot not into a socket.
See http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?426744-Replacement-stanchion-problem

Hi Mike,

Yours sound a bit harder to source than mine which just fit into a socket mounted on the toe rail. I already have a pair of YS types that I bought to replace 2 that are worn and which are a good match for the ones on Sunrunner . I'll just buy another of the same, they're stated to be solid which I think is preferable. The problem will come if I can't re-use the existing sockets due to corrosion - the matching YS sockets are the same price again as the stanchions

Boo2

 

[Boo2]

Can't you work some epoxy putty into the hole to block it as a waterway? Take it to a local engineer and get them to rivet in a new, suitably sized, ferrule?

Interesting idea about the epoxy putty but I have a couple of other stanchions that are worn beyond repair so I may as well replace this one too while I am about it.

Been down the same road as Boo2. I discovered that the hole can be stretched, because that's how they make the top eye in the first place, apparently!
We used the shank part of a 10mm bolt, but ground the section into an oval. The wire end had a clevis that was obviously wide and flat, so when I pressed the 0-shaped stainless broach through the o-shaped hole, the hole actually stretched oval. The judicious application of some lanocoat to the broach meant that the pressing operation could be done with a minimum of bother using a bench vise and a block of soft wood to protect the stanchion.
it also meant that my (rough as a bear's buttocks) customer thought that I could do miracles, and thereafter insisted on using our brand of stanchions for which he was prepared to pay a premium!

Another intersting idea, but I didn't think of it at the time and I'm not sure whether the hole would have stretched enough for my wire ends which are pretty well circular in cross section.

Thanks to all who replied,

Boo2

 

[Plevier]

Hi Mike,

Yours sound a bit harder to source than mine which just fit into a socket mounted on the toe rail. I already have a pair of YS types that I bought to replace 2 that are worn and which are a good match for the ones on Sunrunner . I'll just buy another of the same, they're stated to be solid which I think is preferable. The problem will come if I can't re-use the existing sockets due to corrosion - the matching YS sockets are the same price again as the stanchions

Boo2

These? http://www.allenbrothers.co.uk/item_detail.asp?prod_id=153&id=1113
The weights given are not consistent with solid, they are very similar to my hollow ones which are about 560gms each.

I see you can get YS stanchionc from Force4 in ali alloy - they are solid.

 

[Boo2]

These? http://www.allenbrothers.co.uk/item_detail.asp?prod_id=153&id=1113
The weights given are not consistent with solid, they are very similar to my hollow ones which are about 560gms each.

I see you can get YS stanchionc from Force4 in ali alloy - they are solid.

Hi Mike,

I'm getting the YS47H which are solid according to Seamark Nunn's website here : http://www.seamarknunn.com/acatalog/ys-toe-rail-alloy-stanchion-ys47h-solid-3928.html#.VSOs7cnEUt0. They're very nice quality anyway.

I'm pretty sure the pair I already have are solid - they weigh 718 grammes vs 878 grammes for a 24" length of plain 1" dia ally bar I had to hand. Also the base still bears what looks like slight saw marks from where it was cut off and not faced in the machine

Boo2

 

[Plevier]

Fair enough, but your hollow one must have been stainless not ali. TBH until this exchange I didn't know ali ones existed I took hollow ss to be universal.

 

[skyflyer]

To save weight
Tube has got more strength than same weight massive rod.

[pedantry] tube has almost as much strength as the same weight of solid rod but has a better strength to weight ratio, surely?[/pedantry]

 

[rogerthebodger]

[pedantry] tube has almost as much strength as the same weight of solid rod but has a better strength to weight ratio, surely?[/pedantry]

My tubular standsions are 38 mm od 1.5 mm wall thickness and the same weight solid rod would be about 8 mm dia and thus has a much lower bending resistance due to th tube having the material a greater distance from the centre line.

As to Boo's problum the hole for the horizontal wires have a tube welded in to close off the inside of the tube, which will be rolled from strip abd welded. The outside seam is then trimed and polished. If your standsion is tapered its done in a machine with two rotating rollers with a tapered grove in the edge. The tube the inserter into the rotating rollers a small amount and griped by the taper on the roller squesing the end of the tude and pushind the tube back out. The tube is then totated a little then reinserted.

When i worked in the UK I worked for a company that I designed a tube tapering machine mainly for tapered conveyor rollers.

Boo could get a new tube weldedonto the standsion to allow the wire end to pass through. Thats how i did mine when i made my stantions for my new boat.