Sikkens

KINGFISHER 9

KINGFISHER 9

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Having more or less decided to use Sikkens Novatech and Novatop when I get the woodwork back to bare again ... I presume I should be using the teak one on teak - or does anybody know different having used it ... are the shades light/dark/correct? ... anything tricky I need to know about using Sikkens? ... any help appreciated!
 
I have used Sikkins for a number of years and rate it highly. I use the Light Pine shade and, to my eye, it looks fine. Using Teak on Teak could be too much of a good thing.
Using Novatech on its own has never been a problem and it dries very well. A final coat of Novatop may well give a more durable finish but, as I am happy, I have never bothered.
 
I agree. Use the pine colour on teak or it'll come out too dark. Give it a couple of coats with a light sanding in between. It's great stuff and lasts for ages. My mast was done over 6 years ago and I'm just thinking it might be time to do it again. You can touch up worn patches easily.
 
VicS said:
Every body seems to report favourably on Cetol Novatech and Novatop but according to the data sheets they are not suitable for use on oily woods such as teak and iroko :confused:


http://www.sikkens.co.uk/NR/rdonlyres/9D61D321-2172-4D63-B16F-1161DC502B58/0/CetolNovatech.pdf

http://www.sikkens.co.uk/NR/rdonlyres/27EBDF57-F9E4-4051-839F-D464701962F3/0/CetolNovatop.pdf
Click to expand...

I thought that I did not recognise the description so I just nipped out to the garage to see what I have been using. I think that Vic is correct as I have been using Cetol Marine - colour Natural - which is slightly honey coloured. Great product - I have used the Cetol products on my house (facing the sea) for the last 20+ years.

Cetol Marine is recommended for all woods including Teak. Wash down, sand down and recoat every second year.
 
donmerrifield said:
I thought that I did not recognise the description so I just nipped out to the garage to see what I have been using. I think that Vic is correct as I have been using Cetol Marine - colour Natural - which is slightly honey coloured. Great product - I have used the Cetol products on my house (facing the sea) for the last 20+ years.

Cetol Marine is recommended for all woods including Teak. Wash down, sand down and recoat every second year.
Click to expand...


Cetol Marine ( natural) is what I have been using for the last two or three years.

I reckon it is better anything that I have tried previously although it is early days yet.

Unfortunately it has been discontinued :mad:

Fortunately I dont have much wood wok to deal with so the can I have will probably see me out :)
 
VicS said:
Cetol Marine ( natural) is what I have been using for the last two or three years.

I reckon it is better anything that I have tried previously although it is early days yet.

Unfortunately it has been discontinued :mad:

Fortunately I dont have much wood wok to deal with so the can I have will probably see me out :)
Click to expand...

DISCONTINUED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

***T

How much have you got left Vic?
 
I have used Novatec/Top successfully on Douglas Fir (for mast), Mahogany and Iroko plus Ply. As others suggest use the light pine tint as the darker ones make the wood look muddy.
 
I've certainly used Novatech on mahogany and teak, as well as pine and it's fine. Maybe because it's older wood the oils at the surface have leached out somewhat.
 
I bought a tin of Cetol Marine to refinish the cockpit seat slats on KS. I've been to a lot of effort to strip back to bare wood (the old varnish was completely knackered, with big bare areas) and have so far applied three coats of Cetol to the small piece that goes across the aft end.

I'm not very impressed with the result. I wasn't expecting lustrous varnish, and a matt finish would be perfectly fine, but this just looks like mud. I can't remember the colour I bought, but it was towards the lighter end, I think "Light Pine".

What I'm wondering is whether this is the expected result, or whether something has gone wrong. I did experiment with using chemical stripper on this piece, but also ended up sanding it a bit to get the remnants off. I washed it thoroughly with white spirit, but wonder if it has nevertheless affected the finish. The other parts were sanded only, and I'm reluctant to start putting the Cetol on them if it's going to come out the same way. On the other hand, I did spend 20-plus quid on the tin, plus more for the gloss topcoat, and the unrestrictive application conditions and absence of sanding between coats does make it appealing for the large amount of exterior wood I need to treat this winter. I can't make up my mind what to do.

Pete
 
prv said:
I bought a tin of Cetol Marine to refinish the cockpit seat slats on KS. I've been to a lot of effort to strip back to bare wood (the old varnish was completely knackered, with big bare areas) and have so far applied three coats of Cetol to the small piece that goes across the aft end.

I'm not very impressed with the result. I wasn't expecting lustrous varnish, and a matt finish would be perfectly fine, but this just looks like mud. I can't remember the colour I bought, but it was towards the lighter end, I think "Light Pine".

What I'm wondering is whether this is the expected result, or whether something has gone wrong. I did experiment with using chemical stripper on this piece, but also ended up sanding it a bit to get the remnants off. I washed it thoroughly with white spirit, but wonder if it has nevertheless affected the finish. The other parts were sanded only, and I'm reluctant to start putting the Cetol on them if it's going to come out the same way. On the other hand, I did spend 20-plus quid on the tin, plus more for the gloss topcoat, and the unrestrictive application conditions and absence of sanding between coats does make it appealing for the large amount of exterior wood I need to treat this winter. I can't make up my mind what to do.

Pete
Click to expand...

I have used the Cetol Marine Natural on the teak bulwark cappings, handrails and cockpit locker lids over the past few years. Its easy to apply, gives a semi matt finish and needs re-touching bare spots and re-coating about every second year. Surprised that you are not getting good results, so there must be something happening to give such poor finish.
 
I bought a tin of Cetol Marine ............... did spend 20-plus quid on the tin, plus more for the gloss topcoat,
Click to expand...

Puzzled :confused: Are you talking about Cetol Marine or are you talking about Cetol Novatech and Novatop.

I scrapped and sanded back to bare wood and used Cetol Marine Natural.
The result is a pleasant semi-gloss finish but with a slight orange colour to it. It would be disappointing if one wanted a high gloss or if one really took exception to the colour but the overall result is good smart looking woodwork which will hopefully be easy to maintain

I have not tried Novatech + Novatop so cannot comment.
 
VicS said:
Puzzled :confused: Are you talking about Cetol Marine or are you talking about Cetol Novatech and Novatop.

I scrapped and sanded back to bare wood and used Cetol Marine Natural.
The result is a pleasant semi-gloss finish but with a slight orange colour to it.
Click to expand...

Definitely Marine. I don't think the colour is Natural, as Force 4 didn't have any that day. As I said, I think it might be Light Pine, but will have to have a look in the shed when I get home. The topcoat is an optional addition to the Cetol Marine, if you want a shinier finish than the main coat alone. I haven't applied any to the seat slats, as I don't want them slippery.

Perhaps there is something about the wood itself, or its previous treatment, that has caused the problem. I don't know what sort of wood it is unfortunately. It's quite close-grained, slightly reddish but lighter than eg Sapele.

Pete
 
Last edited:
The colours available were teak, natural and light as far as I can now discover.

I had not come across the gloss top coat before that's why I wondered if you really meant Novatech + Novatop. I have found reference to it now.

The only picture I have is this one , but the plywood wash-boards and locker tops are done with a gloss varnish.

( dont fancy the W. Windrush next door ??)


DSCF0468.jpg
 
VicS said:
The colours available were teak, natural and light as far as I can now discover.
Click to expand...

Yep, I think my tin is of "Light". As applied to my aft seat slats, it's anything but - heavy and dark is more like it!

VicS said:
The only picture I have is this one , but the plywood wash-boards and locker tops are done with a gloss varnish.
Click to expand...

So I'm looking at the hatch surrounds? Hard to tell accurately from the photo, but I think I'd be very happy with that finish. Wonder how much difference is down to the different colour options - I guess Natural is lighter than Light? Any idea what the wood is on your boat, or at least what colour it is in its bare state and how much that changed with the Cetol? Can you still see the grain through the coating?

Cheers,

Pete
 
Yes its only the hatch surrounds ( and the roof handrails) that are done with Cetol.
The wood is iroko, at least that is what it is supposed to be. It has had various treatments over the years including teak oil, Deks Olje, and International Swedish Wood Oil, possibly ordinary varnish as well.
The Cetol is the only one that contains any pigment but the amount of pigment is not so great that it obscures the grain although I guess if many layers were allowed to build up over the years it would.

However it is NLA so its all academic anyway.
 
Just checked out Sikkens website .... Cetol Marine and Cetol Marine gloss seem to be the ones to use .... are these the ones you thought were discontinued? ... They don't mention discontinued.
 
Yes they have apparently been discontinued . Some limited stocks do remain though.
 
VicS said:
Yes they have apparently been discontinued.
Click to expand...

Bloody typical.

Since this kind of thing does need touching up, and I expect to be maintaining KS for years to come, I guess it may not be the best idea to start applying it to my virgin seat slats.

What should I use instead?

Main requirement is ease of application, balanced against acceptable appearance. I have lots of fiddly bits of wood, of various types from teak to WBP ply, around the deck and cockpit and I do maintenance over the winter in an open yard without a cover. Some of this wood is subject to dings and scrapes, so I'd prefer something that soaks in rather than something that relies on an unbroken surface film and goes to pieces as soon as it's breached. I don't want to have to sand between coats if I can avoid it.

All seven spars get lots of loving Epifanes, which looks great but is a pain in the arse to do. I don't want to do more of it.

Pete
 
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