sikaflex vs. 3m 5200

[Ardenfour]

Can anyone advise whether sikaflex do an equivalent to the 3m product? I need the adhesive properties of 3m, but cant seem to buy the stuff off the shelf, sikaflex seems more widely available in my neck of the woods. Local suppliers look at me blankly upon being asked for advice. (hull and deck joint)

 

[oldsaltoz]

G'day Peter,

Have look at the link, if you don't find the one you need, you can contact them for further advice

http://www.sika.com/

Avagoodweekend.......

 

[TigaWave]

291 is the sealant, 292 is for areas with movement likely that require more of a bond than a sealant such as keel.
As the deck is bolted to the hull and there is no movement (hopefully) then 291. We were looking for 292 for keel joint and could only get 3M as it apparently has a longer shelf life.

 

[hairbox]

Hi Hull to deck join you need sika 292 not 291 /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[30boat]

Sikaflex 11FC is what you're looking for.It's a polyurethane sealant and a very strong adhesive.I believe it's even cheaper .

 

[dur]

You begin to understand why many end up getting whatever their local chandlery has in stock. Various options, contrary advice and limited availability. And, what about the primers? Some need them some don't. Different primers for different goops and they cost the earth. If the info is on Sika's site it is not obvious either.

 

[Ships_Cat]

Try Sika's USA site (http://www.sikaindustry.com/), it is the best of their country sites that I have found and has all the information one could ever want. Guidelines for surface preparation, what products to use and all the technical information sheets for Sika products across all industries, including marine.

John

 

[Ardenfour]

thanks for all the replies. I've prised the joint apart all the way round with wooden wedges but still only have around 15mm gap as the bulkheads are still attached to the coachroof, so getting in with a primer would be problematical. The joint is clean gelcoat as the old filler was a neoprene gasket which more or less came out in one piece. I was hoping to run a bead of sealant inside and out which would squash down to meet in the middle as the wedges were withdrawn and the gap closed up again. I only want to do this pain in the a**e job once, so a permanent solution is reqd.
I'll check the US Sika sites, as I'm still confused...

 

[TigaWave]

I'm amazed at the variety of replies no wonder you're still not sure!
Check the Web site it clearly details the applications for the Marine range of products there are only really 3 you may ever need. 290-291-292
Dont know where the 11FC came from? send a mail to Sika and let every body back here know what they tell you, that may be the best solution (for every body)

 

[dragoon]

Hi Peter,
I've used 5200 for a whole number of applications (even at home and on the car ;o) and can safely say it's one of the best adhesives I've ever used. It comes at a cost though - whatever you fix will never come off again and whilst you're using it, it sticks to anything and everything so keep plenty of acetone at the ready! David Pascoe often refers to it on his website http://www.yachtsurvey.com for the securing of more permanent fixings.

As far a purchasing it is concerned, it can be bought in chandleries (at around 18 pounds a tube). There is a place under the Itchen Bridge in Southampton which is a wholesaler of boat construction materials and sells them around 10 pounds a tube which is significany cheaper than the swindleries. Unfortunately I can't recall the name, but perhaps one of the other readers can throw some light - alternatively if you're still interested send me a PM and I'll try to dig out an old receipt.

Cheers,
Paul

 

[Ardenfour]

Hi and thanks again. I checked out the spec for the nearest Sika equivalent, 292. But this apparently has a working time of around 15mins, and starts to cure in 30 - 45mins, compared to 5200, 7 days. I have to apply 4 boat lengths and then fit around 250 nuts and bolts, so 3m looks the better bet

 

[eyehavit]

Hi halycon 23
From time to time I work with a number of Sikaflex products. The one part tube & cartridge types rely on air-moisture cure so exposed surface -V - section depth is very important for curing time. Also porous material such as wood or concrete, because it allows air to permeate will promote faster curing than resin, glass or plastic. The biggest material difference is the relative hardness which in turn determines the degree of toughness and elasticity. As far as low pressure gasket seals to exclude water is concerned they all work. A while back we conducted sea trials using Sikaflex 292 to stick to bronze. We followed all the instructions and the Sikaflex technical Rep's recommendations to the letter. He advised against using a primer because although it promoted adhesion, it was partialy soluble in water. After 6 months underwater the 292 lost adhesion to the bronze, although the material itself remained intact.
The 15 minutes referred to is almost certainly skinning time. A deep section will take much longer to cure through. It can take days.
If there is a significant price difference between 3m and Sikaflex and your only concern the Sika cure time is too short then why not buy or better still borrow a catridge or smaller tube and conduct a trial?

Good luck with your project

 

[dragoon]

For those looking to purchase 3M 5200, the following place in Southampton is the place I referred to above in order to buy it. I'm not connected to them in any way, but since it's hard to find otherwise some (except at high chandlery prices) some people may find it useful.

http://www.marineware.com

Cheers,
Paul